so here goes. I am piecing everything together to make sure that nothing is going to sneak up on me. I have been studying this forum for over a year doing research. I am still ignorant. I have most of the stuff needed but I cannot figure out from my explo. harness I hook up the trans other than the big grey aquare plug . It seems that there are several other plugs on the trans. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

The plugs that go down to the trans are not interchangable with each other so you shouldnt have any problems hooking them up.

 

You can't go wrong...no two plugs are alike other than the injectors! Oh and I hate to be the first one to do this....but

 

ya we need pics... of anything

 

I know that it is worthless without pics they are coming. I only have 2 plugs left one for an o2 sensor and 1 for the trans It seems that something is missing like 3 other o2 sensors and the other 4 to the trans

 

from looking at one of bobs pics it seems that I am missing the trans sub harness . Does this harnes connect to the other o2 sensors

 

alright so the harness on the trans does feed the o2 sensors .So that problem is solved. My main concern and something I have been struggling with is the fact that my rruck is a 94 mod. And the engine and chassis is wired together ( not plug and play) so I thought about taking the entire underhood fuse box that supplies power the explorer pcm and have all of the uneccesary things pulled from it. I have a guy who works for Ford who is willing to do it for 350 . My question is by sending power to the comp and trans this way what complications do you see . He is also going to wire in the explorers obd2 sensor on the same fuse box so that I can test it

 

I was studying my crossmember under the trans yesterday and noticed that there was just a bolt on each frame rail holding it on . Is there any reason why I could not move it here and not use a plate steel apperatice like I have seen on many threads

 

does anyone know how to get the tach and speedo working with a 94 model after the exploder swap

 

What all did you change with the wiring? Is the tach and speedo reading wrong or just not reading at all?

 

nothing yet . I am trying to figure out the wiring before I tear it out

 

I'm not sure how much of the wiring changed with the Ranger's electrical over the years but I'm pretty sure with your truck the speedo reads off of the rear axle. So I guess double check your connection back there. With the tach if it's reading wrong you need to switch around a wire on the gauge cluster for it to read right.

 

does anyone have a harwoods for a 94 ranger or a 96 exploder

 

due to the fact that I am a dumb *** I have ditched the plan to go efi for now and just use carb. I was wondering what most guys are using for the throttle cable on this puppy.

 

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I ordered one from Summit! I believe it was a Ford Lokar universal cable.....and I fabbed a bracket.

 

will my fuel pump not work after I unplug the harness going to the engine and if so can I fix it so that the comp recieves some sort of signal

 

Your 94 speedo is driven by a cable from the transmission (or possibly from the transfer case if it's a 4x4). The 5.0 Explorer uses a signal generator or a speed sensor, depending on the year. What year is the Ex engine/transmission?

The 94-back tach is different from the later models. There may be a way to change grounds or there may be a switch on the cluster labled "V8". You may need to experiment.

If nothing else, there are small black box recalibrators (designed for electric speedometer correction) that could probably be used for this. Cost is $100~200.





Your stock Ranger pump puts out way more pressure than a carb needs or can handle. I believe that there are conversion regulators designed just for this situation. Try Summit or Jegs.

Another approach might be to put a low pressure fuel pump inline and disable the factory in tank high pressure pump.

Getting either to work electrically shouldn't be much of a problem.

 

I have purchased a holly fuel bypass regulator for the carb but I am wondering after I unplug the engine harness if there is a safety somewhere that will cause the fuel pump to not respond

 

Yes, the PCM currently turns on the pump for 1 second at key-up to prime, then turns it on contimuously after the Crank Position (CKP) Sensor informs the PCM that the engine is turning. Since you would be eliminating the CKP and probably the PCM itself, the pump would no longer run. So, you'd have to come up with an alternate power source.

I'd retain the EFI myself but to each his own.

 

I built my 94 Ranger with a 89 Mustang computer and wiring harness. I tapped into the stock 94 Ranger fuse/Relay box and I cut out all the wires that came from the V6 engine harness that tied into the fuse/relay box and body harness. It was a little hard for me as I didnt have any of the EVTM's for the Ranger but I am pretty good with wiring so I never bought them. There is a wiring harness you can buy that will make the EFI swap super easy it only has like four wires to hook up and the price is very fair. Here is a link to it.

RJM Injection Tech 5.0L Universal Harness

 

thanks for the info Guys. I have already installed the carb intake and that is the last time for a while . I think I will run the carb for a while. I have other plans for the efi like a 65 mustang project

 

Bob you are the Ranger forum Nanny. Thanks for wiping butts and passing out bottles.

 

Er.....uh.....thanks.....I think.....

 

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baaahahaha..................and wiping our noses!

 

CAN ANYONE TELL ME THE LENGTHS FOR THE THROTTLE CABLE AND TRANS KICKDOWN FOR A C6 I will probably use the Lokar universal thanx Topdog