What My Plans Are For The V8 Swap!
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What My Plans For The V8 Swap!
Hey everyone, I've been doing some good research on RPS about swapping a V8 into my truck. It will hopefully be this summer if I can get someone to buy all of my 4.0, tranny, & all that good stuff.
Ok, so I'll be doing a 302 swap from a 2001 Mercury Mountaineer. The motor is gonna sit for about 2 months or so, that way I can go ahead & mod it or what not. I'm gonna be doing a head swap, nitrous, & maybe a bore to like a 331/347 or something. I'm not too sure yet about the bore part yet, but we'll see.
With swapping heads, a stock 302 non-H.O pushes like 220 h.p & 274 t.. The heads should give me around 300+ h.p & then the nitrous, I'll be running like a 50-100 shot.
Now the questions is, will my 8.8 w. l/s & 3.73's handle this?
Brenton
Ok, so I'll be doing a 302 swap from a 2001 Mercury Mountaineer. The motor is gonna sit for about 2 months or so, that way I can go ahead & mod it or what not. I'm gonna be doing a head swap, nitrous, & maybe a bore to like a 331/347 or something. I'm not too sure yet about the bore part yet, but we'll see.
With swapping heads, a stock 302 non-H.O pushes like 220 h.p & 274 t.. The heads should give me around 300+ h.p & then the nitrous, I'll be running like a 50-100 shot.
Now the questions is, will my 8.8 w. l/s & 3.73's handle this?
Brenton
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you should be fine on the 8.8 if you dont go over like 370 to the wheels.
also just to let you know this Boreing and stuff your talking about i am going threw it right now your looking at an easy $3500 on mechining work and parts. my motor when done will be an easy $3000 with out blinking...
just the 347 stroker kit is $1200. not including mechining. bigger cam and roller rocker set is like $300 easy new intake would be smart thats and easy $300 it just keeps building... this isnt a just hell do it in a weekend. now just a stock rebuild $260ish mechine out about $300 and reinstall and your good to go
also just to let you know this Boreing and stuff your talking about i am going threw it right now your looking at an easy $3500 on mechining work and parts. my motor when done will be an easy $3000 with out blinking...
just the 347 stroker kit is $1200. not including mechining. bigger cam and roller rocker set is like $300 easy new intake would be smart thats and easy $300 it just keeps building... this isnt a just hell do it in a weekend. now just a stock rebuild $260ish mechine out about $300 and reinstall and your good to go
Last edited by Redneckstone; 02-01-2006 at 09:08 PM.
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First to answer Jey's Question
Without going to a longer stroke:
1)To get a 331 you would have to bore .18" over.
2)To get a 347 you would have to bore .28" over.
Unless I am mistaken (probably am as I haven't researched it much) the max over bore is .2" with an aftermarket block made by World.
Now to answer correct Evan.
1) You can bore some 302 blocks more than .030 over.
2) Boring a 302 to .030" over adds 4 CI, it makes a 306, which I think may have ben a factory motor at one time.
And Brenton I wish you luck on your swap. Take notes while your at it, I may call on you experience when I do mine on the 84'.
I'm interested on how much you have to bore to get an extra ~30 cubic inches lol
1)To get a 331 you would have to bore .18" over.
2)To get a 347 you would have to bore .28" over.
Unless I am mistaken (probably am as I haven't researched it much) the max over bore is .2" with an aftermarket block made by World.
Now to answer correct Evan.
boring just makes it like .030 over or somethin makin it like 1 or 2 CU INs
2) Boring a 302 to .030" over adds 4 CI, it makes a 306, which I think may have ben a factory motor at one time.
And Brenton I wish you luck on your swap. Take notes while your at it, I may call on you experience when I do mine on the 84'.
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im thinkn of rhis project too Brenton.. i thought it was just a huuge pain in the *** on my 02, but if i get a car here soon like i want to, i will be able to have my truck sit during the summer and work it out.
cause im not having the 3.0 any longer than i have too lol, was there any info on newer trucks like my 02, i suppose the 01-02 isnt much of a change, so i'll have to keep an eye on what yer doing. keep us posted :)
cause im not having the 3.0 any longer than i have too lol, was there any info on newer trucks like my 02, i suppose the 01-02 isnt much of a change, so i'll have to keep an eye on what yer doing. keep us posted :)
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Originally Posted by INT3RC3PTOR
im thinkn of rhis project too Brenton.. i thought it was just a huuge pain in the *** on my 02, but if i get a car here soon like i want to, i will be able to have my truck sit during the summer and work it out.
cause im not having the 3.0 any longer than i have too lol, was there any info on newer trucks like my 02, i suppose the 01-02 isnt much of a change, so i'll have to keep an eye on what yer doing. keep us posted :)
cause im not having the 3.0 any longer than i have too lol, was there any info on newer trucks like my 02, i suppose the 01-02 isnt much of a change, so i'll have to keep an eye on what yer doing. keep us posted :)
Why do you say it would be a huge pain in the *** on your '02? Probably the easiest V8 ranger swap there is.
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Originally Posted by BOB
A bone stock 351w 4v from 71 produced 290 hp and 385 ft# of torque. Undoubtedly it would have to be bored and rebuilt yielding a few more inches ponies /ft#'s , but would be ever so much cheaper than a stroked 5.0. But I applaud you , and it is your money. bob
edit .. wait a min .. doesnt the 351 have tighter clearances with the heads though ??
Last edited by Devils_Advocate; 02-06-2006 at 03:54 PM.
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Marginally. The deck of the 351w is 4/10th's of an inch taller so the engine is less than an inch wider over all. A very little extra fitting may be required , but you gain so much . The head bolts are larger and stronger. the main bolts are too. Rod bolts are 3/8 inch stock. The 351w can use the same early model and aftermarket short valve covers, as the 5.0. Both engines can use the same cams. If it is a 5.0 cam , just change the firing order . Ford overbuilt the 351w the mains are the same size as a 460. A lot of people say go big or stay home. I'd be perfectly happy with a healthy stock 5.0 in my truck. I'm not racing .The 351w would be fine too. Talk about an engine never being stressed. With either one , I'd have to have traction bars. I couldn't help myself sometimes , I'm sure. lol. Some people build stroker 5.0's because it isn't easy, they have the skill, the $, and they want to be different; not because they can't fit an engine that is 4/10th's of an inch taller and half an inch wider.
Last edited by BOB; 02-06-2006 at 06:04 PM. Reason: left out a letter
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Originally Posted by BOB
Marginally. The deck of the 351w is 4/10th's of an inch taller so the engine is less than an inch wider over all. A very little extra fitting may be required , but you gain so much . The head bolts are larger and stronger. the main bolts are too. Rod bolts are 3/8 inch stock. The 351w can use the same early model and aftermarket short valve covers, as the 5.0. Both engines can use the same cams. If it is a 5.0 cam , just change the firing order . Ford overbuilt the 351w the mains are the same size as a 460. A lot of people say go big or stay home. I'd be perfectly happy with a healthy stock 5.0 in my truck. I'm not racing .The 351w would be fine too. Talk about an engine never being stressed. With either one , I'd have to have traction bars. I couldn't help myself sometimes , I'm sure. lol. Some people build stroker 5.0's because it isn't easy, they have the skill, the $, and they want to be different; not because they can't fit an engine that is 4/10th's of an inch taller and half an inch wider.
I am in the process of putting a 351W from a 95 F150 into my 1999 Ranger right now. It is alot tighter, but still have plenty of room to fit. For the late model EEC-V, you can use all of the explorer 302 wiring, but these are the parts you need to make/modify:
1) Re-balance engine assembly to use the 50oz imbalance damper assembly from a 302 Explorer. This gives you the crank trigger exciter you need. Otherwise, you could have a special adaptor made to mount the exciter to a 351W28oz damper.
2) Modify the cam position sensor to use a 5/16" hex oil pump drive. I did this by cutting up a 351W distributor and grafting the lower drive section in place of the 1/4" drive section of the 302 explorer sensor module.
3) Oil pan - larger rear main. Are you 4x4? If so, you are now using a custom oil pan. If you are 4x2, you can get away with the 351W FRPP mustang swap double hump pan.
4) Custom headers, as no other will work. FRPP explorer MAY be close, but not sure. I had to make mine from a box of bends and custom flanges.
5) New A/C lines, as there is greater spread accross block and compressor is in new location.
6) New P/S lines, as pump is higher / further from rack.
Alot of work, as you can see, but worth it. I have prodution block and crank and will be comfortable running 500+ RWHP/TQ from this engine with new pistons and rods only. Same cannot be said from a 302. Plus, I could always stroke this out to over 400ci with no other major mods than rotating assy.
Those are the main points.
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