Truck keeps shutting off
#1
Truck keeps shutting off
I have a 92 ranger 4.0
I have a big system, 6 15s on 16k doing a 160db. I know 2 other people with rangers that are over 155db and have the same issue as me.
Truck will just **** off when I'm playing it full tilt. Only have 1 320a alt so the alt isn't pulling the motor down. Just didn't know if their was a switch or sensor that is getting tripped. Some vehicles have a fuel shut off incase of accident that can be tripped from bass, I haven't been able to find anything like that for my truck though.
Any ideas?
I have a big system, 6 15s on 16k doing a 160db. I know 2 other people with rangers that are over 155db and have the same issue as me.
Truck will just **** off when I'm playing it full tilt. Only have 1 320a alt so the alt isn't pulling the motor down. Just didn't know if their was a switch or sensor that is getting tripped. Some vehicles have a fuel shut off incase of accident that can be tripped from bass, I haven't been able to find anything like that for my truck though.
Any ideas?
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
320amp alternator isn't enough especially if engine is under 3,000rpm, at 1,000rpm an alternator produces 50%-60% of rated max power
Best bet would be to run a second battery just for the sound system and isolater for recharging that battery.
Other solution would be to add capacitors to the bass amps/speakers, they are what is dropping the voltage, shutting down the system.
Capacitors store voltage and feed it back into system when a lower bass note happens, then recharge in between, but they have limits as well, so you will need a few.
No there is no safety feature in the Ranger at work here, you are simply causing a "brown out" in the electric system which causes computer to reboot, which shuts down fuel and spark.
Check the power(watts or amps) rating on each amplifier, this is not the output wattage, it is the power needed to MAKE the output wattage, a 600watt output amplifier will usually require 1,000 watts of power to MAKE 600 audio watts, alot of power loss with amplifiers, even digital.
Or calculate your output wattage and multiply that by 1.4
So add 40%, and that would be the power wattage needed at full volume.
I am sure you know the audio wattage loudness progression
2 watts is not twice as loud as 1 watt, it is 1/10 as loud
10 watts is twice as loud as 1 watt
100 watts is twice as loud as 10 watts
1,000 watts is twice as loud as 100 watts
10,000 watts is twice as loud as 1,000 watts
100,000 watts is twice as loud as 10,000 watts
etc.........
Best bet would be to run a second battery just for the sound system and isolater for recharging that battery.
Other solution would be to add capacitors to the bass amps/speakers, they are what is dropping the voltage, shutting down the system.
Capacitors store voltage and feed it back into system when a lower bass note happens, then recharge in between, but they have limits as well, so you will need a few.
No there is no safety feature in the Ranger at work here, you are simply causing a "brown out" in the electric system which causes computer to reboot, which shuts down fuel and spark.
Check the power(watts or amps) rating on each amplifier, this is not the output wattage, it is the power needed to MAKE the output wattage, a 600watt output amplifier will usually require 1,000 watts of power to MAKE 600 audio watts, alot of power loss with amplifiers, even digital.
Or calculate your output wattage and multiply that by 1.4
So add 40%, and that would be the power wattage needed at full volume.
I am sure you know the audio wattage loudness progression
2 watts is not twice as loud as 1 watt, it is 1/10 as loud
10 watts is twice as loud as 1 watt
100 watts is twice as loud as 10 watts
1,000 watts is twice as loud as 100 watts
10,000 watts is twice as loud as 1,000 watts
100,000 watts is twice as loud as 10,000 watts
etc.........
Last edited by RonD; 06-11-2016 at 01:12 PM.
#3
320amp alternator isn't enough especially if engine is under 3,000rpm, at 1,000rpm an alternator produces 50%-60% of rated max power
Best bet would be to run a second battery just for the sound system and isolater for recharging that battery.
And I usually just start the truck right up mid demo without turning it down, and it starts right up no issues.
Other solution would be to add capacitors to the bass amps/speakers, they are what is dropping the voltage, shutting down the system.
Capacitors store voltage and feed it back into system when a lower bass note happens, then recharge in between, but they have limits as well, so you will need a few.
No there is no safety feature in the Ranger at work here, you are simply causing a "brown out" in the electric system which causes computer to reboot, which shuts down fuel and spark.
Check the power(watts or amps) rating on each amplifier, this is not the output wattage, it is the power needed to MAKE the output wattage, a 600watt output amplifier will usually require 1,000 watts of power to MAKE 600 audio watts, alot of power loss with amplifiers, even digital.
Or calculate your output wattage and multiply that by 1.4
So add 40%, and that would be the power wattage needed at full volume.
I am sure you know the audio wattage loudness progression
2 watts is not twice as loud as 1 watt, it is 1/10 as loud
10 watts is twice as loud as 1 watt
100 watts is twice as loud as 10 watts
1,000 watts is twice as loud as 100 watts
10,000 watts is twice as loud as 1,000 watts
100,000 watts is twice as loud as 10,000 watts
etc.........
Best bet would be to run a second battery just for the sound system and isolater for recharging that battery.
And I usually just start the truck right up mid demo without turning it down, and it starts right up no issues.
Other solution would be to add capacitors to the bass amps/speakers, they are what is dropping the voltage, shutting down the system.
Capacitors store voltage and feed it back into system when a lower bass note happens, then recharge in between, but they have limits as well, so you will need a few.
No there is no safety feature in the Ranger at work here, you are simply causing a "brown out" in the electric system which causes computer to reboot, which shuts down fuel and spark.
Check the power(watts or amps) rating on each amplifier, this is not the output wattage, it is the power needed to MAKE the output wattage, a 600watt output amplifier will usually require 1,000 watts of power to MAKE 600 audio watts, alot of power loss with amplifiers, even digital.
Or calculate your output wattage and multiply that by 1.4
So add 40%, and that would be the power wattage needed at full volume.
I am sure you know the audio wattage loudness progression
2 watts is not twice as loud as 1 watt, it is 1/10 as loud
10 watts is twice as loud as 1 watt
100 watts is twice as loud as 10 watts
1,000 watts is twice as loud as 100 watts
10,000 watts is twice as loud as 1,000 watts
100,000 watts is twice as loud as 10,000 watts
etc.........
The only issue is just the truck shuts off, and like I said I know 2 other guys with rangers that are 155+ and have the same issue
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Down to 11volts would be fine, under 9v is when computer can reset, and that may not even show up on volt meter, the bass drop can happen quite fast.
Truck's battery and electrical system needs to be isolated from the sound systems power.
You could be getting some noise on trucks electrical system, even a resonating frequency, from sound waves, inside a component.
15,000 audio watts would 21,000 voltage watts
at 12volts(11.9) you would be pulling 1,750amps at full volume
G34 and G31 are dimensions, the size of the battery, amp capacity is what you need.
No clue on what a "160.8 seal on dash" would mean
Also "running amps at .17" ???
Truck's battery and electrical system needs to be isolated from the sound systems power.
You could be getting some noise on trucks electrical system, even a resonating frequency, from sound waves, inside a component.
15,000 audio watts would 21,000 voltage watts
at 12volts(11.9) you would be pulling 1,750amps at full volume
G34 and G31 are dimensions, the size of the battery, amp capacity is what you need.
No clue on what a "160.8 seal on dash" would mean
Also "running amps at .17" ???
#5
Down to 11volts would be fine, under 9v is when computer can reset, and that may not even show up on volt meter, the bass drop can happen quite fast.
Truck's battery and electrical system needs to be isolated from the sound systems power.
You could be getting some noise on trucks electrical system, even a resonating frequency, from sound waves, inside a component.
15,000 audio watts would 21,000 voltage watts
at 12volts(11.9) you would be pulling 1,750amps at full volume
G34 and G31 are dimensions, the size of the battery, amp capacity is what you need.
No clue on what a "160.8 seal on dash" would mean
Also "running amps at .17" ???
Truck's battery and electrical system needs to be isolated from the sound systems power.
You could be getting some noise on trucks electrical system, even a resonating frequency, from sound waves, inside a component.
15,000 audio watts would 21,000 voltage watts
at 12volts(11.9) you would be pulling 1,750amps at full volume
G34 and G31 are dimensions, the size of the battery, amp capacity is what you need.
No clue on what a "160.8 seal on dash" would mean
Also "running amps at .17" ???
690ah of batt reserve
Really don't think it is a voltage issue. Just didn't know if something was getting tripped, the passages kick where the computer is is about 1db louder than on the dash
#6
I'm with Ron on this one. You obviously know a lot about your specific "niche" but the voltage drop would be quicker than any normal commercial volt meter could read, the computer is sampling at a much higher rate. The fuel shutoff is one way it does not reset by itself. You would not be able to start the truck without pressing the recessed red button atop the cutoff device.
If there is a wire laying beside a sharp piece of metal and it is cut partially through the vibration might be making the wire touch... likewise if there is a loose connection the vibration might be disconnecting it momentarily but the force from the wire position keeps it in contact during normal operation.
If there is a wire laying beside a sharp piece of metal and it is cut partially through the vibration might be making the wire touch... likewise if there is a loose connection the vibration might be disconnecting it momentarily but the force from the wire position keeps it in contact during normal operation.
#7
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
.17 ohms puts alot of power out very very close to dead short, .00 OHMs, but very good amps to go that low without the "magic smoke" being released.
And 3 trucks doing similar would have to mean it is something common to all 3 systems.
Any other things you can add to the "shut down".
Do all the dash gauges shut down?
Or just the oil gauge because engine shuts off?
Does the CEL come on right away, or is there a delay.
And 3 trucks doing similar would have to mean it is something common to all 3 systems.
Any other things you can add to the "shut down".
Do all the dash gauges shut down?
Or just the oil gauge because engine shuts off?
Does the CEL come on right away, or is there a delay.
#8
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