im looking around this is my 2nd system build for a ranger i had a 01ranger edge b4 sold it and took all my stuff out and bought a 2003 ranger edge... but as im going to a new year system im going all out looking around for the best sound deadener so ive used what they call "peel and seal" from lowes and it works great the only thing is ive been there 5 times within the last month at 2 different stores and they are out so now im going to bump it up and go with some better deadener. ive heard of fatman, dynamat, peel and seal, second skin sound deadener, and some of the sprayin stuff to but what is everyone else using and how does it hold up??? as in cost wise, durability,heatwise and effectiveness!! please help im open to options so throw them all with some links and if you have some reviews post them too thanks As for my system wise i have a pioneer 4200dvd as the source im going with Sundown audio subs and amps with xs power batteries.... yes im not playing this time so im not sparing any exspenses for sound deadner cause i want it to be tight and clean bass thanks and hope to see some good posts and reviews...

 

Paragraphs, dude.

Anyway, I've used dynomat before and it helped tremendously. That being said, all sound deadener is doing is sticking rubber to metal to absorb vibrations.

It doesn't really make THAT big of a difference what brand you buy, as long as it's applied to a dry clean surface with a heat gun, it should stick on pretty well and last the life of the vehicle.

 

Roofing products generally shouldn't be used for sound deadener. They work for teh price but I would avoid them.

Personally I like the price and performance of fat mat. My whole cab from teh windows down is covered in it.

The only place left to do is the roof.

 

http://www.audiotechnix.com/

great stuff

 

Second Skin, Dynamat and the tiles from sounddeadnershowdown are the only ones I personally would trust.
I have used the fatmat and peel and seal on my last ranger.. it's worthless really. you can have the big box of it sitting in my garage if you don't believe me. a few sheets of good stuff works many times better then a ton of roofing crap.

have you ever checked this site out.. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com It does some expaining of how sound dampening works.

if your going to "bump it up" you must remove any roofing material from the metal and clean off the residue so the good stuff can adhere and do its job. you cannot just layer over top of the peel and seal.

The rule of thumb is, only one quarter of a sheet metal panel needs to be covered with the good foil backed sheets for about 90% of the dampening results. the other 10% is not really worth perusing because of diminished returns the money is more wisely spent on MLV and decoupling foam. The MLV and foam is what most people never use but is what provides that "dead quiet" feel to the vehicle and kills the road and wind noise.. which is not otherwise possible with only using the sheet dampener.

 

yea i had the peel and seal in my old ranger never put it in the new one. ive heard of secondskin just never heard of any reviews about it

 

I did this to my 150. This stuff is thicker than the peel and seal. It has a thickness of 40mil whereas Dynamat Extreme is 44mil. Super sticky and it did a hell of a job.

 

What kind is that

 

This stuff is great. And cheaper than dynamat

http://www.b-quiet.com/

 

"What kind is that" That would be thick peal and seal.

Sheet dampener should have a thick constraint layer to be effective usually thick aluminum.. It is the constraint layer that restricts the vibrations the rubberized adhesive provides buffer zone and solid adhesion along with mass.
asphalt is not idea as it is too soft to create a solid connection to the constraint layer. its effectiveness is not as ideal as rubber

The reason why peal and seal type products somewhat work is because your adding mass to the panel. while adding mass helps some its just not as effective as adding mass with a solid constraint layer.

So... in order from least effective to the most..
1.asphalt with no constraint layer = Dynamat original, Peel'n seal with plastic backing
2.asphalt with constraint layer = FatMat, B-quiet, Peel'n seal with foil backing
3.rubber compound with constraint layer = Dynamat Xtreme, Second Skin Damplifier
4.thick rubber compound with thick constraint layer = Second Skin Damplifier pro, Dynamat DynaPlate
5.thickest rubber compound with thickest constraint layer = Sound Deadner Showdown Tiles, Second Skin Alpha Damp.

note that you need less of the product as you use the more effective product. making install quicker and easier. and costing less than many layers of the less effective product.

I hope that helps you some with your decision..

 

It's Grace Ice and Water. I closed up all the big holes underneath with masonite screwed to the doors, and then this between the MDF and door and then sealed around it again. Sure it's not as good as dynamat or tiles, but it sure is a HELL of a lot cheaper for a noticeable gain. I had a roll of it laying around from a roofing job, so no cost to me. For $90 you can cover 225sq.

 

"but it sure is a HELL of a lot cheaper for a noticeable gain. I had a roll of it laying around from a roofing job, so no cost to me. For $90 you can cover 225sq." That was my point, you would only need a few square feet of the good stuff to get the same dampening effect as a few hundred of the cheap stuff. its actually ends up being cheaper and easier to go with the good stuff. unless you have it laying around. :)

 

Anyone feel like explaining what mlv is and how the foam works?

 

MLV is Mass Loaded Vinyl, It it provides a solid mass sound blocking layer and is the next best thing to lead sheets. The foam provides a decoupling zone that prevents the MLV from being in contact with the vibrating surface witch would otherwise cause the MLV to vibrate, thus reducing it noise blocking properties.. either one on their own will not provide the desired results.