I figure with the amount of power that I am going to be pushing with my upgraded system I'm going to need a better altnator. Only because One amp is pushing 200amps from both amplifiers. I do have a capasitor but that will not help. I heard maybe a deep cycle battery will help to?

 

what size alternator do you have now? you prolly have the 130 like i did stock......most STX's came with the larger alt.....i bought a new 130 thinking i had the 95 amp but i had the 130.........i would say go with a 175 amp alt.......that would be good for what you got..........

 

How much do they run? Are they hard to put in? Looks pretty easy to me?. Where can you find them at that doesnt sell em for a billion dollars? Ive been looking around a bit this morning.

 

http://www.jusnesmodified.com/store/...roducts_id=173

check this out.....it is Jusnes Modified's page...$220 shipped + 4 gauge wire and terminals(about $20)

they are super easy......unhook the battery, unbolt 3 bolts, unplug 1 wire, unbolt 1 wire, then take the alt off.......putting it back on you losen the tensioner pulley, repeat in reverse order the same thing to take it off, then put the belt on, tighten up the tensioner pulley, run a 4 gauge or larger wire to the battery with a inline fuse, and hook the battery back up.....

it is super easy!

 

^ You never mentioned to loosen the belt or remove it off the pully....do you leave the belt on to swap alternators????




































Its easy man....But a good capaciter (sp) and a new yellow top battery should do the trick...

Rocky

 

everybody knows that the belt will fall off when you remove the alternator ....


a cap is NOT the solution to a charging system that is under strain from too much power being drawn off of it.....caps are good for sudden high draws off the battery......an amp running high watts, will draw alot of power continusly and strain the battery....after so much strain, the battery will give out......

in my opinion, if you are putting in a nice system, then upgrade your charging system also...it will make your system sound so much better and last alot longer....

 

Alternators provide power while the engine is running.
Batteries provide power while the engine is not running.
Capacitors are help absorb big quick spikes like when there is a big bass hit

Using one to accomplish the task of the other will leave you on the back of a tow truck.

 

Well the kicker 12 that i had, with the mono amp i forget exactly how many watts i was pushing but it was a dual voice coil wired in at 1 ohm, (dangerous i know)

But when i turned it up everything went dim when it hit......Not good i know, but for 1 12 it pounded, you can NEVER go wrong with kicker...

But anyways, yes i would do everything, if your battery is old, replace it with an optima.......get a bigger alternator, and get bigger grounds / power wires to the alt...

Will help your truck and system

Rocky

 

You should replace all 3 but when you have a high wattage system, pulling on your alternator and your lights dim, your putting too high of a load on your alternator which resorts back to your battery to get more power......which makes your battery go......

To put a loud system in you need a battery, alt, new wiring, and a cap

Rocky

 

in the perfect world, someone would sit down and figure out what kind of amps they are using when everything is running......then buy the next size bigger alternator so they have more than enough amps in their charging system.....a system performs best right around 14 volts.....

using Ohm's Law (P=VI, P=watts, v=volts, I=amps) if you have a 1000 watt MAX amp, you would need to figure for the MAX power for the amp.....
so:
since you are solving for "I", the formula would be: I=P/V

so:
I=P/V
I=1000watts/14volts
I=71.4 amps

that means JUST your 1000 watt MAX(which is usually RMS around 800 watts) is pulling 71 amps away from your other electric systems....

a power cap will drop the amps a little, but not much........then you also have to figure your radio operation amps, your headlight,corner light,taillight operating amps, your accessories amps, and MOST important is your ignition system amp rating.........all of the electric items come into play, not just your audio system...........

what size is your power cap?
when i get off i will figure the capatance of your cap and then figure out what kind of amps it stores continously.....

 

yeah ima look into it.

 

My cap meaning capasitor?

 

yes.....

 

get me the dimensions of it also....how long, what is the diameter

 

Heres what I am going to be running:

- AMP: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...1&locale=en_US

- AMP: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...7&locale=en_US

- CAPASICTOR: http://cgi.ebay.com/New-power-Acoust...QQcmdZViewItem

 

any way you can find the deminsions of the cap itself......

 

can ya wait prob 30min?

 

well amplifiers alone are going to be pulling 92.4 amps RMS.....your cap will only help with about 20 amps when there is a major bass hit......a cap only works when the system is under heavy load.............

i would say since you are going to be running 2 amplifiers, get this setup...

200 amp Jusnes Modified alternator...$270
http://www.jusnesmodified.com/store/...roducts_id=173

Optima Yellow top.....about $150
http://www.optimabatteries.com/publi...ig/splash.html

and then run a 1 gauge power wire to your alternator with a 250amp inline fuse in the wire.....then do the "Big 3" ground wire upgrade with 1 gauge wires...........

then from your battery run a 1/0 gauge power wire(with a 200 amp fuse inline about 6" from the battery) back to a distribution block near the amplifiers and split it off to: 1, 1/0 gauge power wire with a 160 amp inline fuse going to the 1000watt amplifier & 1 4 gauge power wire with a 40 amp inline fuse going to the 300 watt amplifier.......

how to figure fuse sizes:

take the fuses in the amp and add them up.....the amps you are getting has: the 1000watt amp has 4 40amp fuses, so a total of 160 amps & the 300 watt amp has 1 40amp fuse, so a total of 40 amps........then add the 160 amp and the 40 amp and that is the fuse size you need at the battery in the 1/0 gauge wire so you need a 200 amp fuse at the battery because that is the max that your amps will draw....

then you have to branch that 200 amps to each amp through the correct fuse after the distribution block....so the 1000 watt amplifier needs a 160 amp fuse and the 300 watt amplifier need a 40 amp fuse.........the reason you do this is because if the amp trys to draw too much power it will pop the 1 fuse behind the power source instead of taking a chance of blowing the amplifier....the next line of defence is the fuses in the amplifier itself...

 

yea i wont be able to figure it until i get off work at 4:30 so whenever you get it.....

 

I'm glad someone finally mentioned the big 3, its probably the cheapest and easiest way to get more power out of a stock system. Of course there is a limit to what it can handle. I'm running an 850W rms amp, before I did the big 3 the lights would dim and voltage would drop low enough for the amp to cut out, after the big 3 the lights barely dim and no voltage drop. I'm guessing I have the smaller alt too but im not sure.

 

Having your lights dim and falling back to the battery constitutes using one to do the job of the other. Your alternator should be big enough so it's output is never exceeded, period. You should be able to leave the stock battery in there if you don't plan to run it without the engine running. If you lights dim and it is falling back on the battery, then you still need a bigger alternator. One should not be doing the job of another ever.

 

a cap is really a temporary fix for a failing charging system...and mostly for looks anyways....