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Sound Deadening - How to do it ?

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Old 06-23-2011
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Sound Deadening - How to do it ?

My floor is completely covered with sound deadening from the rear window to as far up the firewall as possible.
Next is to attack the Doors and Roof.

Any ideas on the best way to do both areas ?

Thks

Note: I thought I used Fat Mat but it was Be Quiet Mat. Worked well in an '82 Jeep to reduce the tinny sound from the body so I tried it out in the Ranger.
Just having the floor and the side walls reduce noise a lot.
 
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Old 06-23-2011
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id also like any ideas on this. I got about 100 sq. sitting in the garage.
 
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Old 06-23-2011
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I would recommend removing all the stock stuff from the doors, placing the stuff in pieces on the inside of the actual door skin then installing the largest pieces possible on the inside of the door. with leaving just a few holes for wires and the speaker hole. It made a huge difference on my truck. it was amazing really.
 
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Old 06-23-2011
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Zach, thks for the reply.
Let me see if I have this… “placing stuff in pieces on the inside of the door” sort of on the outside of the window area but inside of the framework and “installing the largest piece possible on the inside of the door” meaning on the outside of the framework, sort of next to me ?
Why small pieces, is that so they will fit through the holes in the frame ?
Will 15” strips, just touching work the same as one big piece on the outside of the frame ?


Any prep needed inside of the framework. might be some rusting ?

Is there any rhyme or reason to the placement of this material ?
 
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Old 06-23-2011
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clean everything real good...scuff it up with scotchbrite pad and clean again. I did the entire cab with rammat and its nice and quiet

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Not shown is the roof, obviously...but I did the same thing. A good, clean surface is a must
 
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Old 06-23-2011
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That goes over the speakers… right ! LoL.
OK I see what you did thanks for the pics.
That’s what Zach was saying I just needed a little confirmation.

So no particular method, just get it on so it stays if possible.

Was it a pita to get in side the doors ?
 
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Old 06-23-2011
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ya it seems like it would be kind of a b!tch to get it inside the doors.
 
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Old 06-23-2011
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its not easy getting inside the doors but its not bad.

i just sprayed mine with windex and whipped it with a towel. Dynamat sticks to almost anything and doesnt come back off.
 
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Old 06-23-2011
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Do want
 
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Old 06-23-2011
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Pull the door panel off, stick it in as many places as you can. Also, there's a big hole in the door. I recommend covering that up. I would take a thin piece of sheet-metal and drill 4 holes to secure it then deaden over top of it.
 
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Old 06-23-2011
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Originally Posted by rangerboy101
Pull the door panel off, stick it in as many places as you can. Also, there's a big hole in the door. I recommend covering that up. I would take a thin piece of sheet-metal and drill 4 holes to secure it then deaden over top of it.
This.

Also, make sure you have a heat gun. It makes it stick a LOT better. A hairdryer works in a pinch I guess.

I've also found it easier to work with smaller pieces fitted tightly against one another rather than try to wrestle one giant piece onto the door. Also, this (or something like it) helps with the application process as well:

http://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-Applic.../dp/B003JUTXE2

Happy dynomatting!
 
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Old 06-23-2011
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How much do you guys think that weighs when you do the whole cab? Just curious... never used the stuff.
 
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Old 06-23-2011
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Look this stuff up for reviews. It's pretty much amazing. And cheap too!
http://downsouthbassproductions.com/...hk=1&Itemid=57
 
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a good 35lbs for 2 full rolls would be my guess....been a while since I did it
 
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Old 06-23-2011
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Audiotechnix weighs about 10lbs per 25sqft
 
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Old 06-29-2011
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Originally Posted by rangerboy101
Pull the door panel off, stick it in as many places as you can. Also, there's a big hole in the door. I recommend covering that up. I would take a thin piece of sheet-metal and drill 4 holes to secure it then deaden over top of it.
Good idea, sheet metal over the big hole, I was thinking I had some thin aluminum, that will work well enough.

Originally Posted by ThatGuy85
Also, make sure you have a heat gun. It makes it stick a LOT better.

I've also found it easier to work with smaller pieces fitted tightly against one another rather than try to wrestle one giant piece onto the door. Also, this (or something like it) helps with the application process as well:

http://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-Applic.../dp/B003JUTXE2

Happy dynomatting!
Small pieces and heat gun, never would have thought of the heat gun.

Originally Posted by FULLSCALE
How much do you guys think that weighs when you do the whole cab? Just curious... never used the stuff.
Originally Posted by rangerboy101
Look this stuff up for reviews. It's pretty much amazing. And cheap too!
http://downsouthbassproductions.com/...hk=1&Itemid=57
The two boxes of Be Quiet must have weighed in at around 30 lbs, maybe more, just guessing.


I had two rolls of Be Quiet left over from my 82 Jeep Project so it will be used but I think most of this stuff has to be the same thing in a different wrapper.

On my Jeep I wanted to make sure it stayed up I used a spray adhesive, man did it stick.

Thks for all of the ideas and methods I will get it done as soon as the speakers arrive.
 
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Old 06-29-2011
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I just got some Fatmat in the mail today. I can take some pictures of it when I install it if you think it would help you.
 
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Old 06-29-2011
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Old 06-29-2011
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Originally Posted by rangerboy101
I just got some Fatmat in the mail today. I can take some pictures of it when I install it if you think it would help you.
Originally Posted by 01RangerEdge
Always interested in how someone else does the same thing I want to, can’t hurt if you have pics pls post.

Thanks for the Korey Info…

ltr,

added - 06/30/11 - The How-To from Korey is a good overall look at the Sound Deadening of the Cab.
Good to see the roof done, I will need to address that too, while all of the seats and stuff are out of the cab.
thks… 01RangerEdge
 

Last edited by Scrambler82; 06-30-2011 at 05:19 AM.
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