Tips on fixing rust
#1
#2
#3
i have the same thing im also gonna be removeing my fender flares this summer. only way i can think of is bondo lol thats what im doing at least i have a few holes in the wheel wells of my bed bottom of my doors have holes in em and the inside of the drivers side door jam has some o and the inside of where my seats go lol those are gonna be the fun ones not sure exactly how to do it 100% but i have a father in law whos great at this stuff
#4
DO NOT FILL HOLES WITH BONDO!!!!! It will not last. a few months after you fix it, it will fall out. That is not the purpose of body filler. you cannot fill holes with it. unless you cut the rusty metal out, the rust will continue to spread, causing bigger holes. cut out the metal, weld in new.
#5
DO NOT FILL HOLES WITH BONDO!!!!! It will not last. a few months after you fix it, it will fall out. That is not the purpose of body filler. you cannot fill holes with it. unless you cut the rusty metal out, the rust will continue to spread, causing bigger holes. cut out the metal, weld in new.
#6
DO NOT FILL HOLES WITH BONDO!!!!! It will not last. a few months after you fix it, it will fall out. That is not the purpose of body filler. you cannot fill holes with it. unless you cut the rusty metal out, the rust will continue to spread, causing bigger holes. cut out the metal, weld in new.
#8
Rangers are bad for rust on the welds beneath the doors and the seams along the windshield pillars. My advise is to undercoat everywhere you can in the wheel wells to prevent it, and keep your distance from other drivers to prevent rock chips. I use touch up paint on all my little tiny rock chips and scratches every time I wash my truck, and i wash my truck a couple times a week.
#9
Tips on fixing rust
I have a 96 and a 01 ranger. I noticed a couple of spots of rust above the rear wheel wells of the 01. The salt sits there and eats away. This is not the cure but it helps.
I take grease and brush it on where ever I can underneath. Where I can't brush on grease, I have a pressure tank that I fill with heavy oil and spray it on everything. It soaks into the metal and will help keep rust down. Flush out the door bottoms with a hose, let dry and pour some oil in there. It will soak into the cavity's and reduce rust.
I just purchased my 96 in the fall and didn't have time to clean everything and spray with oil, so I got a few cans of WD 40 and sprayed the frame and anything else I got reach.
I don't drive on graver roads, so I am not worried about dust sticking to the oil. I would rather have dust than rust.
Hope this helps someone to reduce the evil rust. Tom
.
I take grease and brush it on where ever I can underneath. Where I can't brush on grease, I have a pressure tank that I fill with heavy oil and spray it on everything. It soaks into the metal and will help keep rust down. Flush out the door bottoms with a hose, let dry and pour some oil in there. It will soak into the cavity's and reduce rust.
I just purchased my 96 in the fall and didn't have time to clean everything and spray with oil, so I got a few cans of WD 40 and sprayed the frame and anything else I got reach.
I don't drive on graver roads, so I am not worried about dust sticking to the oil. I would rather have dust than rust.
Hope this helps someone to reduce the evil rust. Tom
.
#10
Texaco makes a rust proofing grease. I believe you can get it at most auto stores...
This summer I have to remove the bed, flip it over and bead blast the underside as the rust on the bottom of the bed is becoming a serious problem. Then weld on another piece of steel. Tho, i might just say the hell with it, and cut out the offending areas, however after seeing what I did in the fall, Sandblasting, with POR15's kits may be the only effective way to handle the situation.
(it helps to have a fully paid for professional sandblasting setup)
If some of you do go this route, let it be known that most people who do sandblasting, do whats called a 'dust off' meaning they remove the scales, but dont actually clean the metal as it takes longer and uses more material... then they prime it with whatever to cover up the fact that they didnt actually clean it.
Also, freshly blasted metal needs a coat of something, even a rattle can, with in 1-2 hours or it will begin to rust from the moisture in the air...
This summer I have to remove the bed, flip it over and bead blast the underside as the rust on the bottom of the bed is becoming a serious problem. Then weld on another piece of steel. Tho, i might just say the hell with it, and cut out the offending areas, however after seeing what I did in the fall, Sandblasting, with POR15's kits may be the only effective way to handle the situation.
(it helps to have a fully paid for professional sandblasting setup)
If some of you do go this route, let it be known that most people who do sandblasting, do whats called a 'dust off' meaning they remove the scales, but dont actually clean the metal as it takes longer and uses more material... then they prime it with whatever to cover up the fact that they didnt actually clean it.
Also, freshly blasted metal needs a coat of something, even a rattle can, with in 1-2 hours or it will begin to rust from the moisture in the air...
#12
For holes left behind from fender flares and such...I use a hand rivet gun...shoot the rivets into the holes then grind flush with a Dremel rotory tool or equivelant.
To fill and smooth , I use 2 part metal expoxy but You have to work fast.
Sand smooth and apply epoxy primer,then paint , then buff .It also helps to paint inside the fenderwell with an epoxy based paint and rustproofer to retard rust where it will actually form due to the wheel/road exposure.
Remember....Primer draws moisture !!.....paint A.S.A.P.
To fill and smooth , I use 2 part metal expoxy but You have to work fast.
Sand smooth and apply epoxy primer,then paint , then buff .It also helps to paint inside the fenderwell with an epoxy based paint and rustproofer to retard rust where it will actually form due to the wheel/road exposure.
Remember....Primer draws moisture !!.....paint A.S.A.P.
Last edited by Don97; 05-26-2012 at 02:02 PM.
#13
For general surface rust....I grind out the affected metal , coat with a product such as POR-15 , then fill with 2 part metal epoxy.
Allow to dry overnight then sand to smooth.
Apply epoxy primer , then sand where required.
Paint , allow to dry overnight , then buff.
Remember...Paint draws moisture ! !....Paint A.S.A.P.
Allow to dry overnight then sand to smooth.
Apply epoxy primer , then sand where required.
Paint , allow to dry overnight , then buff.
Remember...Paint draws moisture ! !....Paint A.S.A.P.
Last edited by Don97; 05-26-2012 at 02:03 PM.
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