Has anyone ever used this product?

I decided to give it a try on my *new* 06, because I read that it protects longer then other waxes, and is easy to apply. Wipe on wipe off, pretty easy, it just doesn't like plastics or scratches much.

It doesn't shine as much as other waxes do, but it leaves a really slick and smooth coating, and it rained shortly after, everything just rolled off.

Curious to know if anyone else has expirience with the product. Protection is important to me as I live in PA and WV. The salt is terrible, and the rocks on the road have led chips in the paint

 

I used to use it, it lasts no longer than any other wax. Meguires NXT is much better and Collonite 845 is even better. Collonite is the only wax Ive used that to this day one year later its still beading on my F150, hands down the best wax ever. My old bottle of Nu-finish I use on my lawnmower and snowblower now.

 

I have used this for years mainly as it is very easy to use. Wipe on and wipe off. I do not use this on my 944 as it gets some fancy hoity toity crap - takes hours for me to do but looks incredible.

 

I've always been a huge fan of the Ice stuff from turtle wax, mainly because I can use it on plastics, trim, body. etc.

I'll have to give that meguires stuff a try. The Nu Polish was cheap and easy, so I figured I'd try that orange bottle I always walked by out.

My MAIN goal is to protect the paint, A decent shine is a welcomed bonus.

 

I have used it for a long time and am happy with the ease of use, shine and durability.

 

The shelves are full of "we're the best" waxes out there. If you haven't done a clay bar first...you wasting your money....try it...it will make what ever you use last longer.

 

The professional detailing boys use Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 or Guard.

My B-2300 sits outside so I put in on.

It isn't a polish or wax, but a clear coat, a ceramic clear coat.

Therefore, the prep work is where the shine is really found.

It's harder than OEM clear coat and cannot be removed without abrasives.

I washed with Dawn detergent, then did a 50/50 wipe with 91% IPA alcohol.

That was followed by S3 Gold heavy cut compound. Then I used HD Polish (3D Int'l) and then wiped with IPA alcohol at 25/75%.

I used a Makita orbital polisher and a 8" Meguiars foam pad.

Then I applied the Opti-coat 2.0

I still have a few heavy marks in the finish, but since I'm not a pro, that was as far as I was willing to work.

Apply it to glass (not on the windshield), black trim, paint, bumpers headlamps, taillights, etc.

The finish is rock hard.

http://www.opti-coat.com/coatings.html

3D International, LLC :: Polishes & Compounds :: HD Polish

S3 Edition Gold 1-Step High Performance Rubbing Compound

http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotiv...hing-pad-65in/

 

I've used "Nu-Polish several times on my Ranger in the past, and I found it easy to apply and polish and looks good, but I also noticed on the container it says something like: "For best protection, put another coat in 30 days." As my Ranger is usually parked outside, in the past couple of years I decided to use a wax on it instead. I've been using "Turtle Wax" and found it will "bead up" for at least a year.

 

that stuff is junk...i use motors california gold paste wax...once a month..paint looks 10 feet deep

 

X2 Collonite 845,the best!

 

I second that, best wax ever. Plus you can get it on trim and it wipes off

 

Yep, just detailed my F150 yesterday. I use the Collinite on everything, trim, bumpers, glass, paint, heads and tails the stuff is awesome. I've got everyone at work using it now on everything from cars and boats to motor homes and motorcycles, they all swear buy it too.

 

I did wax for many, many, years and came to the conclusion that "wax" gets you about 1 - 3 months max. So, I'm going the "sealant" route to see if that reduces the constant need to "wax" the car.

I tried Zaino CS sealant but it only lasts about 3 - 6 months. Then Meguires NXT and then their super premium wax of which I forget the name. But again, 3 -6 months max.

I've researched as many tests of waxes, polishes, sealants that I could find. And at the end of the day, it is how well you have "prepared the clear coat finish" that matters the most.

To properly "wax" a car, you must remove ALL older waxes/finishes. You want the wax to bond to the clear coat of the vehicle because that is how the wax/polish/sealant you just purchased was formulated. Being applied to a 100% pure OEM clear coat finish.

But that takes time and work. Hard work.

Soak your car in 4x concentrated Dawn detergent and let it sit on that finish for at least 5 minutes. Keep it moist during that time. That will begin to breakdown the old waxes/polishes sitting on the clear coat.

Now rinse and wash the car as you normally do.

Now wipe the car down with a 50/50 mix of 91% IPA alcohol.

At this point you should be free from all old waxes/polishes and be pretty darn close to a base OEM clear coat.

Now look at the vehicle from 10 or so feet. Does it look shiny enough? Now move right up on the surface and view from side angles and see if you have any hazing, hard water spots, swirls on the finish. (At least you're now looking at the actual clear coat finish form the factory).

Now you must decide what is "good enough" for your standards relative to "shininess/slickness"

If you see hazing then I suggest using an orbital sander with Scholl S3 Gold Edition Rubbing compound followed by 3D Int'l HD Polish then a car wash again and then an IPA wipe and then a wax/polish/sealant.

You'll be amazed at what your trucks paint should really look like.

That's been a lot of work to get to this point. So tough decisions need to be made, and money should be a lower consideration given that you've just spent 2 - 4 hours of hard work to get here.

I'm now using Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 after reading what the detailing pro's use. You get a 20cc syringe vial of the stuff, and I did say 20cc (not much), but enough to do 2 cars at a minimum.

Waxing a vehicle is just like preparing a vehicle for paint. The prep work is where the results are to be found.

 

yea using dish soap to wash my truck...no thanks i actually like my truck to have clear coat

 

I bought it for you too lmao

 

Dawn dish washing soap will NOT remove clear coat; only remnant waxes and polishes.

The goal is get your "finish" down to the base clear coat so that any wax/polish/sealant you apply over the clear coat will perform as the mfg'r designed it.

To remove clear coat, you would need to utilize abrasives.

 

yea still no thanks...it will damage the clearcoat...bottom line is that you dont use any household chemicals to wash a vehicle..there is so much wax on my truck it sheds water almost to the point there isnt any on the truck anymore..i have to keep rinsing it off when i wash it to keep it wet..and i know auto paint...i went to school for collision repair and worked in a body shop for several years

 

It absolutely will not damage youre paint/ clear-coat.

 

I wouldn't imagine Dawn would hurt your paint or clear coat. I'm no detailing expert but I figure if they wash oil soaked ducks with the stuff my truck should be ok.

 

Sounds like you have awesome coat of wax on your truck.

But for most/many, their wax and/or clear coat is hazy, scratched, swirled or embedded with dirt or other stains. Simply washing and then waxing will not touch most of those issues.

Therefore, you would have to get down to your base clear coat and begin to work on it to bring it back to full shine and slickness. Dawn and IPA alcohol mix helps to get you there. I have never read where Dawn or an IPA mix has damaged clear coat. I know it has never damaged any vehicle I have used it on.

I've buffed many a vehicle using a Makita rotary buffer with a Maguire's foam pad and Scholl S3 Gold rubbing compound and 3D Int'l HD Polish. Those products will abrade the clear coat but that's what they're designed to do.

 

How's this for black lol

 

Awesome! There is nothing like a black truck, or car for that matter, when the owner has taken care of it.

As Henry Ford stated back in 1909: "Any customer can have a car painted any color that he wants so long as it is black "

How right he was.

My 2003, Mazda B2300 is called: "Old Man Sandstone" by my son; affectionately.

 

I'd be more worried about the alcohol than dawn dish soap ruining clear coat,

Well, the Nu Polish doesn't seem to last as long as it clams, hasn't even been a month and I already notice a decline in water beading. Lowe's sells the NXT stuff, I guess I will try that out, I havn't been able to find the Collonite stuff

 

Marine dealers sell the Collinite around here, otherwise most pick it up from amazon. Costs about $15

 

A lot of small plane owners and Lear Corporation swear by Glare Polish:

GLAREŽ Products|Glare Micro Finish|Glare Spider|Glare Vinyl & Leather|Glare Turbo Action Wheel Cleaner|Glare Knock Out|Glare Ultra Wash Soap|Hurricane Products| Buff Pads|Electric Buffers| which is also used on trucks/cars.

Even Honda has rebadged it for sale:

Honda Pro Glare Professional Polish 12 oz at Parker Yamaha Com

I read an 8 polish test done by a guy who put it on a hood side by side and Glare lasted the longest.

Cannot locate the test.

I have Opti-Coat 2.0 Ceramic Clear Coat finish on the B2300. That was after Scholl S3 Gold and 3D Int'l HD Polish buff job. I should be good for over 5 years. Time will tell.

I may try some Glare Polish on 1/2 half of the hood by placing it over the Opti-Coat to see how it performs.

I'll let you guys know if I do it.