1990 Ranger 4x4 not working
#1
1990 Ranger 4x4 not working
I just bought a 90 Ranger 4x4 yesterday for $500 and the 4wd doesn't work. When I press the buttons on the dash nothing lights up. It has manual locking hubs though. I locked those in and still nothing. Could be the switch or a fuse? Any help on where i should start first will be much appreciated.
Here's a pic of it. It's beat up but can't complain for $500
Here's a pic of it. It's beat up but can't complain for $500
#6
you have the rarer electric transfer case , most were manual
there is a switch on the side of the transfer case where several wires lead into
this switch lights up the 4x4 / low lights , wires may be corroded and have failed
you will need a multimeter for the connector , to test for connectivity
the electric motor moves a internal shift collar that engages / dis-engages the front drive shaft
either to 4x4 high or 4x4 low ( as the other switch shows )
over time a lot gunk inside the transfer case will settle around the shift collar , jamming it
you will need a dirt road some where around you , drive around in 4x4 high ( turn front locking hubs to ON ) for awhile , this will dislodge the gunk and release the shift collar ( sometimes )
drain the old fluid and pour in fresh ATF fluid along with 2 to 3 ounces of DURALUBE
there is a switch on the side of the transfer case where several wires lead into
this switch lights up the 4x4 / low lights , wires may be corroded and have failed
you will need a multimeter for the connector , to test for connectivity
the electric motor moves a internal shift collar that engages / dis-engages the front drive shaft
either to 4x4 high or 4x4 low ( as the other switch shows )
over time a lot gunk inside the transfer case will settle around the shift collar , jamming it
you will need a dirt road some where around you , drive around in 4x4 high ( turn front locking hubs to ON ) for awhile , this will dislodge the gunk and release the shift collar ( sometimes )
drain the old fluid and pour in fresh ATF fluid along with 2 to 3 ounces of DURALUBE
#8
Ok I checked the plug it looks fine and I unplugged and cleaned it and plugged it back in. I don't have a multimeter so I couldn't check that out. I did drive around for a while wit the hubs locked in and still nothing. I did read the owners manual and from what I gathered from that these didn't even come with electronic 4wd with manual locking hubs? Is that true? I don't know if someone converted it a long time ago or what. Might just buy a new dash switch and see if that does anything. If anyone has anymore input I'd appreciate it thanks.
#9
#10
#11
the shift motor is shot
the motor body is severely corroded , more than likely the inside of the motor probable has water in it
i would try a wrecker 1st for a replacement motor , RockAuto Parts Catalog would be my main choice though
those manual locking hubs are in fact FACTORY parts
the motor body is severely corroded , more than likely the inside of the motor probable has water in it
i would try a wrecker 1st for a replacement motor , RockAuto Parts Catalog would be my main choice though
those manual locking hubs are in fact FACTORY parts
#13
#14
rear antilock brake problem will not dis-engage power to the transfer case shift motor
al though you should have that looked at mechanical wise as a safety feature
#15
I haven't had much time to check anything but, I did buy a Ford obd1 code reader. It's always ran pretty rough and I just did a tune up and cleaned the upper intake with seafoam intake cleaner and that helped a little. I checked the codes and all I got was 15 which is: No Keep Alive Memory power to PCM pin 1 or bad PCM (Memory Test Failure). Not sure if that's right or matters or would affect how it runs. A friend and I established it needs a fuel pressure regulator so that will be my next step. I should add that I do get a check engine light occasionally when driving.
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jfoster2505
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02-14-2012 07:23 PM