Hello,

I'm in process of bleeding my clutch soon and I'm sure there is thread already mentioned before to make this a successful bleed once for all ... I looked at them all ... not sure which way to approach this.

I have put in new throwout bearing, pressure plate, flywheel everything that's associated with clutch system including new reservoir line.

is hand operated pump recommended to get the job done to ensure there's no air into the system? If so can anyone tell me what kit is recommended for this job.

Thank you for your help in advance

95 Ford Ranger, V-6 4.0L, M5OD 2W

 

Yes, bleeding hydraulic systems can be a pain, especially if you are alone.

The tube and bottle method is probably best when you are alone.

Get some clear tubing, a diameter that fits snuggly on bleeder for clutch and brakes, dual use.

And a clear or semi-clear bottle, old water bottle works fine.

I like to use a shorter hose so I put hydraulic fluid in the bottle, about 1/4 full, then put bottle on a stand with short hose from bleeder to bottle, end of hose needs to be IN the fluid so it won't suck in air.
Support bottle so it can't fall over.
Bottle I have fits nicely inside a roll of duct tape.

Make sure reservoir is full
Open bleeder, pump clutch pedal.
Air will be push out tube and into fluid in bottle and bubble to the surface, when you release the pedal fluid will be sucked back in.
Repeat a few times.
Tighten bleeder and see if you have good pedal.

You may need to repeat this after a few days of driving, but it is easy once you have the hose and bottle.

If your clutch system has ever run dry(empty reservoir) then you may need to bleed the Master.
Because it sits at an angle regular bleeding can't clear out all the air, you can remove it to bleed it or you can do it in the truck.

Google: How To Bleed A Ford Ranger Clutch Master Cylinder

It is a good video on how to remove the C-clip at the top of the master which allows piston to come up and release any air trapped at the top.