hey, i just had the rear pinion seal replaced in my truck as the dif had a leak coming from there, its been in for 4 days now and i notice a squeak or whining noise coming from the rear of the truck now, any suggestions or ideas on what it might be, thanks, steve

 

I'll bet someone did not do it right...they used the paint/mark/calibrated mechanic hand....I tired that ONCE, learned the hard way with a whine within 60 miles.....

To do it the correct way you must remove the carrier, use a new crush sleeve, and torque the pinion nut to proper used bearing preload. You may be ruining your pinion bearings or the bearings were shot to begin with causing the leak.....gotta rebuild if that is the case.

 

i done it the paint/mark/calibrate way and have had no problems as far as I know

 

what is the proper torque for the pinion nut??

 

Wirelessly posted

Scott has a great write up and I followed it doing mine. Same way no issues and it's been almost a year

 

thats on frf, Justin Higgs has a great one on here:

https://www.ranger-forums.com/showth...ghlight=pinion

 

It's a rotational preload, there is no set torque for the pinion nut. The 8.8 uses a crush sleeve (can get spacers to eliminate this though, check Summit racing) so once you crush it to provide the proper bearing preload (new and used bearings are different also) that's it for the washer.

MANY have done it with no problems doing the faster easier way, but that is not the proper way to do it and can ruin bearings.

Here's the torque specs..
http://www.fordracingparts.com/downl...And-Pinion.pdf

Here's a basic how to but you can skip teh gear installation as all you are doing is setting the bearing preload with crush sleeve...
http://www.differentials.com/install.html

A highlight of bearing preload and crush sleeves from that site...

Pinion bearing preload is measured in inch-pounds, and is a measure of the rolling resistance of the pinion bearings after proper torque has been applied to the pinion nut. Set the preload carefully (see "Set Up Specifications") so that the bearings will have a long life. Use oil on the pinion nut washer surface during all assemblies and red Loctite on the pinion nut threads during the final assembly.

Crush Sleeve Design: If you are unsure about getting the correct pinion depth, it may be easier to install the pinion without a crush sleeve until the correct pinion depth has been established. Always use a new crush sleeve for final assembly. Slide the crush sleeve on the pinion shaft (unless you are using the trial and error method) and install the pinion through the rear of the housing. The yoke usually must be tapped on while applying pressure on the pinion gear head to hold it in place. Use an impact wrench or huge breaker bar to apply the torque necessary to crush the sleeve. Proceed very slowly so that you don't overload the bearings. The pinion preload will be zero until the bearings contact the races but will then increase very quickly. Use an inch-pound torque wrench to check the preload. If the pinion bearing preload exceeds the specified allowable range, install another new crush sleeve and start over.

 

Does not mean someone else will have the same results.....yes, it does work most of the time but if done the right way (much harder and longer however) it will not fail and work everytime.

I agree with some shortcuts, just putting this out there due to my experience...had to rebuild my 8.8 when I did not get it right using the marking/reusing method.

Also, the root cause of the seal failing may be the bearing or crush sleeve themselves. By dropping the carrier and getting a new crush sleeve you get eyes on and can see the condition of the bearing and race. For all I know my failed first attempt may have been a bearing related failure and had nothing to do with the shorter method......but I can assure you, those bearings can go out FAST if you don't get it "close enough", and that results in much more work.

 

Hell yeah....been looking for something like this.

Question though; when removing the pinion nut, instead of measuring it's depth like in this how-to, can you not just count the amount of rotations it takes for the nut to be remove?

 

Did you top off the gear lube? Don't forget to do that.

 

you do both. that way you know you are dead on

 

Right on

 

right on, thanks for all the tips and stuff guys, i did top up the gear oil, 25 a litre for 75/140 full synthetic. ill get it figured out this weekend somehow

 

oh i forgot, how do i tell which diff setup i have, whether its a 7.5 or 8.8 and so on