Bad Transmission- No Drive
#1
Bad Transmission- No Drive
So this morning I was heading to school and stopped for coffee and now I dont have drive. Im under the assunption my transmissions bad because it felt like it was starting to go and finally did.
So my question is what should I do now? This really has me scrambling to hurry and get the truck on the road.
So my question is what should I do now? This really has me scrambling to hurry and get the truck on the road.
#2
Sounds liek the sep gasket and or EPC valve are contributing to low pressure - .. you could put a pressure gauge on it to see what's up, but not many people do...
If you're confident that your fluid is in good shape and at a proper fill level... (so that's not causing a pressure issue), then I'd recommend reading through a few of the no-drive symptoms on this thread, then dropping the pan and valve body to inspect/replace the sep gasket, solenoid retainers, and possibly your EPC solenoid (or just performing the TSB from Ford for your tranny that corrects pressure issues)...
... at least from where I sit (it only lokos a little freightening, if you watch how things dissassemble, and have a good in-lb torque wrench the valve-body work on the 5R55E is pretty straight forward.
If you're confident that your fluid is in good shape and at a proper fill level... (so that's not causing a pressure issue), then I'd recommend reading through a few of the no-drive symptoms on this thread, then dropping the pan and valve body to inspect/replace the sep gasket, solenoid retainers, and possibly your EPC solenoid (or just performing the TSB from Ford for your tranny that corrects pressure issues)...
... at least from where I sit (it only lokos a little freightening, if you watch how things dissassemble, and have a good in-lb torque wrench the valve-body work on the 5R55E is pretty straight forward.
#3
Honestly I have no clue about transmissions and their workings. So would low pressure make just drive not work?
Before this happened itd take a couple seconds to kick into drive. This morning it took the usual cojuple seconds and as I was driving I heard a loud pop and a shudder in the truck but it kept driving fine.
Before this happened itd take a couple seconds to kick into drive. This morning it took the usual cojuple seconds and as I was driving I heard a loud pop and a shudder in the truck but it kept driving fine.
#4
Auto trannys are pretty simple (and to me at least) far more simple when most of the controls are electronic...
Basically, the pump generates pressure that can be used to operate a number of hydraulic pistons - (pistons are controlled by solenoids...) the piston applies pressure to a band (a belt of friction material) that clamps the outside of a planetary gear to change the in/out ratio along that gear... There's a gazillion details about clamping forces and solenoid timing ... but they all will come down to basics of pressure acting to move a piston.
Since the 5r55e tranny has a known issue of venting it's pressure internally (a failed separator gasket) and having issues regulating it's pressures (EPC Solenoid fail/wear) - it could be said that dropping the pan, and looking closely for gasket material in the pan, and/or protruding gasket material (not always apparent until the valvebody is on the bench) s a cheaper diagnostic for what you're describing ---
Some tranny shops will offer to run a "free computer diagnostic", which is totally cool -- if you can drive there AND they actually share the results - Many around here will offer generalized results and estimate a rebuild (for free). Truth is, even if they put a computer on it, AND a pressure gage at the test port, and find your pressure to be low... the shop can't tell you what failed inside your closed-up transmission without inspecting the same gasket ... Of course, by the time they've got your pan off to look, the consumer will ask them to "guarantee" their repair -- I don't know what you'd do here, but I'd be DAMNED sure that EVERYTHING that could be wrong is repaired, or I (acting here as the shop) would be on the hook for labor again and a number of unfavorable posts in some Internet forum... So the shops are well-founded in offering to fully recondition/rebuild a tranny with a low pressure issue. (including a front pump and all the friction bands -- so the quote includes dropping the transmission from the vehicle.
My thinking here is that if it quacks like a duck, then your odds of it being a duck are pretty good (the tranny has a known fail point causing a no drive condition that is directly related to the fluid pressure management system). ALL-IN parts would be about $200... but you could "diagnose" with a simple aftermarket $50 shift-kit, a keen eye, 6 or so hours, and 5 - 7 quarts of the correct (Mercon V) for the tranny ...
Less than a tow bill to the local tranny shop for a free diagnosis ... :P
Basically, the pump generates pressure that can be used to operate a number of hydraulic pistons - (pistons are controlled by solenoids...) the piston applies pressure to a band (a belt of friction material) that clamps the outside of a planetary gear to change the in/out ratio along that gear... There's a gazillion details about clamping forces and solenoid timing ... but they all will come down to basics of pressure acting to move a piston.
Since the 5r55e tranny has a known issue of venting it's pressure internally (a failed separator gasket) and having issues regulating it's pressures (EPC Solenoid fail/wear) - it could be said that dropping the pan, and looking closely for gasket material in the pan, and/or protruding gasket material (not always apparent until the valvebody is on the bench) s a cheaper diagnostic for what you're describing ---
Some tranny shops will offer to run a "free computer diagnostic", which is totally cool -- if you can drive there AND they actually share the results - Many around here will offer generalized results and estimate a rebuild (for free). Truth is, even if they put a computer on it, AND a pressure gage at the test port, and find your pressure to be low... the shop can't tell you what failed inside your closed-up transmission without inspecting the same gasket ... Of course, by the time they've got your pan off to look, the consumer will ask them to "guarantee" their repair -- I don't know what you'd do here, but I'd be DAMNED sure that EVERYTHING that could be wrong is repaired, or I (acting here as the shop) would be on the hook for labor again and a number of unfavorable posts in some Internet forum... So the shops are well-founded in offering to fully recondition/rebuild a tranny with a low pressure issue. (including a front pump and all the friction bands -- so the quote includes dropping the transmission from the vehicle.
My thinking here is that if it quacks like a duck, then your odds of it being a duck are pretty good (the tranny has a known fail point causing a no drive condition that is directly related to the fluid pressure management system). ALL-IN parts would be about $200... but you could "diagnose" with a simple aftermarket $50 shift-kit, a keen eye, 6 or so hours, and 5 - 7 quarts of the correct (Mercon V) for the tranny ...
Less than a tow bill to the local tranny shop for a free diagnosis ... :P
#6
Satan hit the nail on the head
one small difference, since he has a 3.0 it is a 4r44 but everything said still applies
If you have no forward but reverse still functions, you may have a problem with the forward clutch or a blown separator plate. If you have no reverse then check line pressure and go from there
one small difference, since he has a 3.0 it is a 4r44 but everything said still applies
If you have no forward but reverse still functions, you may have a problem with the forward clutch or a blown separator plate. If you have no reverse then check line pressure and go from there
#7
Satan hit the nail on the head
one small difference, since he has a 3.0 it is a 4r44 but everything said still applies
If you have no forward but reverse still functions, you may have a problem with the forward clutch or a blown separator plate. If you have no reverse then check line pressure and go from there
one small difference, since he has a 3.0 it is a 4r44 but everything said still applies
If you have no forward but reverse still functions, you may have a problem with the forward clutch or a blown separator plate. If you have no reverse then check line pressure and go from there
..and yeah, same same all around 4r44e and 5r55e as well as 4x2 and 4x4 (tail housing and a few hardpart differences in 2wd v 4wd only)
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if you were talking to me, yes i have. 600-800 for one with probably just as many miles as this one had.
#16
So Ive been searching around for JY transmissions and found one with 68k for 650 and one with unknown for 400. Im still searching but what years/ engines?maybe? can I use. Is the 4.0 the same as the 3.0? Im doubting it but I figured id ask.
If I cant find anymore im droppin in either a 4.0 or a 5.0 haha
If I cant find anymore im droppin in either a 4.0 or a 5.0 haha
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