Hi all. Newbie at this site. Been working on cars/trucks for years. Never had a Ford Ranger hydraulic slave to work on before though. Here is the scenario:
1998 Ford Ranger XL 4.0L 5 speed. Just bought it with 258,000 miles on it and the guy that had it kept in decent shape, but had original clutch.
Pulled tranny, replaced the clutch (pressure plate, friction disc, slave cylinder & throwout bearing, and pilot bearing). Only original part is master cylinder. System was driving decently when I bought last month but started acting up.
Here is my problem: been trying to bleed this darn thing to get the slave to disengage the clutch all the way. OMG what a PITA!!! I do have it disengaging but it seems to be hard shifting, more than I would expect is right. I can drive it around, then when I come home and park it after the test drive, it becomes increasingly more difficult to shift. Then if I let it sit for an hour or so, it shifts nicely the first few shifts, then reverts back to hard shifts.
I have done every possible combination of bleed techniques I could find from here and other forums.
What I am wondering is whether there is a difference in dimensions in the type of pressure plates? I can't imagine there would be but....
I have a close friend who works on big trucks, and he hates the self-adjusting style. Every street rod I ever built, I used non-self adjusting and they worked great, so I stuck with the non-self adjusting plate for the replacement.
Are the two types of plates different dimensions causing the slave to not engage as much as it should? Or is it more likely I still have some air trapped in the system leading to the difficult shifting and changing stiffness of the clutch pedal?
Last edited by scottscar54; 01-15-2012 at 12:15 PM.
Reason: Updated information on the original post.