I thought the lock-right would be a good mod for my trucks lack of traction. I mean if it's good enough for my friends Mustang, it's got to be decent enough for a little offroading on a daily driver.
The install went great, we checked and triple checked everything, and I babied it around town all day Saturday except for a little burnout at a red light right before I got home, everything was great! Today I was out and about and my friend puts up in his mustang, we decided to see who's ford was faster( yes I knew he would probably hand me my a$$).
We both took off hard but all I got was a little tire chirp, 8 inches later I destroyed the locker. REALLY destroyed it, like broke the center shaft in 3 peices and took out about 7-8 ring gear teeth!
Has this ever happened to anyone else? Do you think Richmond would pay for the fix?

P.S.- Please hold your street racing comments for later, I understand the dangers of it. We were on a deadend street that nobody lives on, surrounded by empty field, there were no cars, pedestrians, or small fury animals around to be hurt by our stupidity.

 

Those 3.0s man, they're a beast!

 

^^^LMFAO



hahahahhahahahaha

 

dang....my 2.3L can't even do burnouts unless pavement is wet :(

 

My 3.0 can't do them when the pavement is wet...

 

hmm I also have to have A/C off, and half tank of gas, seeing as I have a 5-Speed I can't sit there and spin b/c I cant brake fast enough and then I choke down....

 

Who installed the locker?

 

richmond MIGHT cover the locker, but they DEFINATELY wont cover the rest of the damage.

I put it on installer error...

 

all you can do is call them......they will not cover the other damage but they will cover the locker

 

when you installed the locker did you use the crosspin that came with the lock-right? or did you use the crosspin that was in there? was it a notched crosspin that you used?

 

they dont come with crosspins. you have to buy an aftermarket hardened and notched crosspin.

 

Ouch, sucks man! I agree, just call them up and see about it.. blackranger93, something's wrong if you cant do a burnout in a 5-speed vehicle lol.. just dump the clutch, none of that powerbraking stuff..

 

Yep thats what my post was pointing at

Installer Error of some sort.

Also anytime you have the gears out arent you susposed to take it easy for 500
miles so they can wear back in again?


That particular locker is pretty strong so I'm guessing something
Else failed and let it all crap out.

 

Lock-Right does come with a hardened cross pin (not notched), at least mine did.
So 2 questions come to mind,
1. Did you use the pin that came with the locker? (stock pin is weak)
2. Did you remove the ring & pinion to do the install? (not necessary)
on a 7.5 to install it you have grind the corner down (about 1/8") to clear the cross pin.

 

NEVER USE A NOTCHED CROSSPIN WITH A LOCK-RIGHT or NO-SLIP, NEVER. They send a new hardened solid crosspin with the lock-right because there is a lot of force put on that pin (the entire vehicle is driven off that pin) you should NEVER use a notched crosspin and you should never modify the crosspin in any way before using it. The correct way to install a lock-right in a carrier where there is not enough clearance for the crosspin to come out (like a 7.5 with 4.10s like my axle, or even a 7.5 with 3.73s is close) is to grind a small amount from the corner of a tooth or two of the ring gear until the crosspin can slide by. This IN NO WAY affects the strength of the ring gear as the part that is ground away is not even in the contact pattern of the ring and pinion. If you used any other crosspin than the one that came with the lock-right, or modified the pin that came with the lock-right in any form than it is perfectly understandable that you broke the crosspin, you did not break the lock-right, you broke the crosspin...

 

pics?

 

Sounds like someone has personal experience here :)

 

Well, I don't have exeriance with breaking a crosspin, as I used the hardened crosspin that came with the locker and just ground off a tiny bit of tooth with my dremel like this,

This is how much of the pin is blocked with 4.10s in a 7.5


and this is how much has to be ground away to get the pin to slip by, it's almost nothing


But I did actually break the lock-right with my little 2.3, but thankfully I just got it replaced under a warranty return. When it happened it broke 3 of the small pins


I broke a part of one of the drivers


and I totally chewed up and destroyed the teeth on the couplers


But I'm not very nice to my truck and the way I drive it, seeing as I follow the 4x4 guys with my little 2wd and impress them quite often. Even so this was a used lock-right when I got it, and it took me 40K miles to break it, I'm not expecting the new one to have any issues at any point. Also when I blew up the lock-right it didn't damage anything else in the rear axle, I just couldnt go anywhere... it sucks changing out a locker for the spider gears in the rain in the mud at the side of the trail.

 

man, im hearing all these bad stories about powertrax, this makes me cringe about puting in a no-slip in my truck....

 

I have the lock right in the front axle, so, no(1) and yes(2)

i guess it depends on which model locker you purchase, cause i didnt get one...

 

don't worry about it man, the no-slip is built toally different. The reason mine blew up is because I trashed 3 of the 4 pins and then it all went downhill from there. the no-slip is built without those pins, so as long as you install it right and use the crosspin that came with it (or have me install it for you sometime...) then you wont have any issues with it. I don't expect to have any issues with the lock-right now that it's all new and I know what to listen and feel for when things start going wrong. I have a feeling one of the 4 pins was probly broken before going down there, and the hell I gave it just totally did it in. Now I know the feelings of when a pin is probly broken, so I can keep an eye on it if it starts acting weird like it did before and take care of things when its just a matter of new pins to be installed.

 

sorry for any confusion, I probably shouldn't have quoted you, Gil, on that reply, questions were aimed at Chris (with the broken Lock Right)
I don't know anything about front diff. as I am just a lowly 2WD. I only know about the one that I got.
I remember Owen (Glowin3232) had a problem with his, but I believe it was because he used his stock cross pin instead of the one that came with it.

 

Sorry I haven't posted sooner, I've been wrestling a new axle under my truck. I'll have some pictures and more info on what went wrong tomorrow.

To answer a few questions asked, I installed the locker with the help of a friend of a friend that works at the local 4x4 shop. We didn't remove the carrier and we used the new pin that came with the locker. The bolt that holds the pin in the carrier was still bolted in, and I didn't break any of the 4 small pins. In fact, we stuck the factory pin in the locker and drove in up and down the driveway, everything still works except I'm missing a few teeth on the ring and half of the pinion.

 

ok... how do I remove the locker or whole carrier if I can't get the C clips out?

 

why cant you get the clips out?