A few weeks ago I drove my Ranger to work. When I came home, the clutch seemed considerable softer - especially at the top of the travel. The truck is a '98 2WD, 4.0L, 5 speed, 169K miles. I have no maintenance history on the truck as I recently purchased it. My question is this - When the clutch slave fails - how do you know it? I expected that I would start losing clutch fluid, but the clutch master cylinder is full and there is no sign of fluid through the rubber plugged "inspection port"? in the transmission. I can shift gears in the transmission just fine - no issues with not being able to get into gear or anything. Can the spring on the slave fail or weaken? The truck still runs and drives fine - it's just very different than it was a few weeks ago. I only use the truck for occasional use so it's not like I have developed a great "feel" for what it should feel like. Thanks for any suggestions / advice.

Eric

 

the slave fails 'engaged' you will loose all clutch pedal

 

^^^Yea...what he said. It's really fun to drive when you only have disengagement in the bottom 1.5". Good times. I'm on #3 right now.

 

^^^ what they said... sounds like its on the way out

 

Thanks for the encouraging words! :-) How much of a pain is it to drop the transmission without a lift? Is it even possible? I'm a pretty amateur mechanic. Is this a job best left to someone else? How do you check the clutch disc and other parts while you're in there (so the clutch itself doesn't go out 5000 miles later!)

Eric

 

Well its not that hard really. I've done it on the ground without a lift. You can do it in a weekend, if you do though the week before you do it spray every bolt you can find with penetrating lube because it will make things go so much faster. Once the transmission is off everything you needs is just sitting there. the clutch , pressure plate, and flywheel are all sitting there and the slave cylinder is bolted the shaft coming out of the transmission in the bell housing. If you do the slave cylinder and the clutch I would highly recommend the flywheel as its only like $60.

 

dude...it's easy. At least for me....as I've done it twice on my ranger, and two other times on different rangers. Get yourself a chiltons/haynes and look it over. If you think you can do it.....definately do it. If you think you can't do it, then don't. Personal judgement decision there.

While your in there...replace that clutch! Get the flywheel machined, and i'm not sure on your ranger, but my flywheel was held on with external torx bolts. Make sure you get external torx sockets....I think it was a size 12? A haynes/ chiltons is what I used the first time...after that it's like a bicycle. All I used was 4 jackstands, and a harbor freight 3ton jack. Youll have to drop the exhaust y-pipe, i'd really start to lube up those bolts...expect to break studs at the Y with bolts. Don't forget the pilot bearing.

Like said before, pick up a chiltons or haynes book. it's a great help. Another person to help out with droping the trans and lining it back up is almost a requirement. Because it sure does get bored when it's just one person.

 

I went through the first slave within 17k miles. Then about every 2k miles after that. Sold the truck with 22k miles. Luckily they were all fixed under warranty.

 

I do have a DVD version of the factory shop manual and have been looking at it. Nothing ever looks that hard on paper though! The bruised knuckles and swearing all starts once you get UNDER the truck.

How do you disconnect the clutch slave hydraulic line? My manual says I'm supposed to have some "special tool". What do you guys use? Do you have to bleed the line when you put it back together? Thanks for all the help by the way.

 

Oh boy was is cussing trying to get the trans to line up with the engine by myself. Probably a good 2 hours going back and forth, drinking another beer, throwing in another dip after about 4 more tries. It really pissed me off this time around.

push in on the line, use a flat screwdriver to push on the plastic ring/quick disconnect thing, and pull back on the line. Should come right out. No special tool here.

Yes....you would haveto bleed to clutch Becuase you just put in a new slave cyl...that has no fluid in it, just air, and to get the air out, you gotta bleed her. Wow...I just kept going there. Two people to bleed it....but all they had to do is push in the clutch pedal while i cracked the screw. That's it.

No probs on the help man.

 

I guess I gotta do my slave too. Got 65k on it. drove to work and everything was perfect. Never had a problem with the clutch or tranny. After work I start her up and no clutch whatsoever. So I pumped it up a bunch and got her home. The clutch resi was low, so I filled it up, and it still don't work.

Does the slave go all of a sudden like that?
Should I change the clutch while in there? All my driving is pretty highway so I bet my clutch is still fine.

 

bleed it. i'm on slave #3.....it doesn't just go. At least mine didn't.

I noticed an increasing amount of pedal play over a few months. Then I started only having usefullness of the clutch pedal for the bottom 2"......i only used the clutch to start out...and shifted clutchless there after....did that for 2 or 3 days....then the clutch was just worthless.

You're truck has 65k on it? Replace that clutch while you are at it. Just cuz your clutch isn't slipping yet....doesn't mean it will in a year. Then youll have to drop that trans again and swap the clutch this time. Then who knows....the slave will go out again. lol.

It's $200 max for a auto part storespecial clutch kit. do it.