4.88 with 33's?
#1
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#5
I found an axle with 4.88's in it for a decent price, I'm not regearing an existing axle otherwise I'd just wait. If I buy it now it'll cost me a third the price then if I bought one with 4.10's and regeared after I got 35's. I don't care about MPG as long as I get over 10mpg lol.
I thiink 35's and 4.88's are way too high of gearing...but thats just me. You'll be fine for a while with 33's and 4.88's...although you'll want 37's...trust me it's the exact opposite of what you have now.
#8
4.88s should be fine in town, you'll be wrapping the motor up on the highway.
With 4.88s and 35s i was doing ~3200 RPMs at ~70 in *5th*
now
with 3.55s and 35s i do ~2200 rpms at ~65 in *4th* and ~3,000 at 65 in 3rd...
I haven't even been into 5th and stayed there its just too much of a dog.. ~1700rpms at 65
5.13s are gonna suckkkkkkkk especially for the road trip to MO.
With 4.88s and 35s i was doing ~3200 RPMs at ~70 in *5th*
now
with 3.55s and 35s i do ~2200 rpms at ~65 in *4th* and ~3,000 at 65 in 3rd...
I haven't even been into 5th and stayed there its just too much of a dog.. ~1700rpms at 65
5.13s are gonna suckkkkkkkk especially for the road trip to MO.
#9
I don't like how mine revs up so much. When I tow the trailer I have to shut o/d off, and I'm at 2900-3000rpms at 60...it sucks, before it was 3000rpms for 65-67....it is THAT much of a difference.
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I found an axle with 4.88's in it for a decent price, I'm not regearing an existing axle otherwise I'd just wait. If I buy it now it'll cost me a third the price then if I bought one with 4.10's and regeared after I got 35's. I don't care about MPG as long as I get over 10mpg lol.
#15
i say go for it if you dont do much highway driving just do 60 or so when you are out there should still do decent on gas ... my dads buddy has a jeep on 33s with 5.38s i think .... he wont even take it on the freeway it screams even trying to do 55 lol (he has a daily, 95 f150 i6 xcab longbed manual)
#16
#17
Do it, it will be fine.
I ran 4.88's in my sport trac (was an auto) with 33's for quite a while. It was fine on the highway. In O/D with a calibrated speedo, I was pulling around 2850 at 65 or 70. I forget, I'll have to look it up. On the highway, in town, everywhere I got 14mpg. But I also had a big roof rack with a spare on top, programmer, and drove with a heavy foot.
If I did it again with plans only for 33's, I would go for 4.56 (with a 4.0L). I went with 4.88's because I got a used front diff with 4.88's and aussie installed for a good price.
You likely won't need to lock out O/D with 4.88's when you tow, unless you're moving it around town.
I pulled a (very) loaded down 6x14 enclosed trailer from Oregon to Kentucky with my Sport Trac, and only locked out O/D at the bottom of the hills. It didn't hunt or shift between gears on the highway. It held solid at 65mph+ so I saw no reason to rev the **** out of the motor when it was pulling hard a steady in O/D. 10mpg average on the trip too.
I ran 4.88's in my sport trac (was an auto) with 33's for quite a while. It was fine on the highway. In O/D with a calibrated speedo, I was pulling around 2850 at 65 or 70. I forget, I'll have to look it up. On the highway, in town, everywhere I got 14mpg. But I also had a big roof rack with a spare on top, programmer, and drove with a heavy foot.
If I did it again with plans only for 33's, I would go for 4.56 (with a 4.0L). I went with 4.88's because I got a used front diff with 4.88's and aussie installed for a good price.
You likely won't need to lock out O/D with 4.88's when you tow, unless you're moving it around town.
I pulled a (very) loaded down 6x14 enclosed trailer from Oregon to Kentucky with my Sport Trac, and only locked out O/D at the bottom of the hills. It didn't hunt or shift between gears on the highway. It held solid at 65mph+ so I saw no reason to rev the **** out of the motor when it was pulling hard a steady in O/D. 10mpg average on the trip too.
#19