L/S, no slip, lock rite
#1
L/S, no slip, lock rite
doing some reading-cant find the answer to this question.
i have manual hubs which can be a pain in the *** because you got to get up and lock them in to use 4x4. i find myself in many situations where all i need the 4x4 to be on is in a small hill where i parked or ill just use it for 10 seconds and be done. i dont want to keep the hubs locked in all winter because gas is bad enough-ya im one of those...so looking for a locker that will give me power to both wheels when i need it so if im trying to park on a lil mound of snow my back right tire doesnt just slip when the other rear has perfect traction to get me up all the way. so many differ kinds of lockers and l/s and no slips and i just get lost. and i have a hard time switching to a 8.8 simply becuase my 7.5 is brand new and i hate to get a used 8.8 and have it break and be screwed.
i have manual hubs which can be a pain in the *** because you got to get up and lock them in to use 4x4. i find myself in many situations where all i need the 4x4 to be on is in a small hill where i parked or ill just use it for 10 seconds and be done. i dont want to keep the hubs locked in all winter because gas is bad enough-ya im one of those...so looking for a locker that will give me power to both wheels when i need it so if im trying to park on a lil mound of snow my back right tire doesnt just slip when the other rear has perfect traction to get me up all the way. so many differ kinds of lockers and l/s and no slips and i just get lost. and i have a hard time switching to a 8.8 simply becuase my 7.5 is brand new and i hate to get a used 8.8 and have it break and be screwed.
#2
As much as you dont want to replace your rear end, its the best choice. If you get an Explorer axle it comes stock with a L/S. Mine cost me $150 and the thing looked brand new inside.
But if you really dont want to switch it you can get either a Locker or a L/S. Pros and cons to both.
The locker (if its a full time) will lock up when ever one wheel starts to slip. This can be bad because when you go around a corner the outside wheel will lock and skid until you straiten out. Its going to add extra wear to your system. You can get an E-locker and then its only on when you want but that will cost you around $600 new.
The L/S is great but not worth putting in a 7.5 IMO. Its going to be pretty pricy but will do the job great. The decision is up to you.
But if you really dont want to switch it you can get either a Locker or a L/S. Pros and cons to both.
The locker (if its a full time) will lock up when ever one wheel starts to slip. This can be bad because when you go around a corner the outside wheel will lock and skid until you straiten out. Its going to add extra wear to your system. You can get an E-locker and then its only on when you want but that will cost you around $600 new.
The L/S is great but not worth putting in a 7.5 IMO. Its going to be pretty pricy but will do the job great. The decision is up to you.
#3
If you want a locker, get something that is selectable on or off because being fully locked isn't very road friendly and after seeing you drive last weekend the *** end of your truck will bounce around on turns lol.
My truck had a LS from the factory in the 7.5 and when i blew it up and went 8.8 i bought a new ford racing LS on summit for $195. Easy to put in.
My truck had a LS from the factory in the 7.5 and when i blew it up and went 8.8 i bought a new ford racing LS on summit for $195. Easy to put in.
#4
#5
Well It would be cheaper to spend an extra $20 in fuel than $400 on a locker. Those lunch box lockers can be sketchy in the snow and cause you to spin out in 2wd. I thought about putting in a selectable locker but it is too expensive for the amount of time I would use it.
#6
If you want a locker, get something that is selectable on or off because being fully locked isn't very road friendly and after seeing you drive last weekend the *** end of your truck will bounce around on turns lol.
My truck had a LS from the factory in the 7.5 and when i blew it up and went 8.8 i bought a new ford racing LS on summit for $195. Easy to put in.
My truck had a LS from the factory in the 7.5 and when i blew it up and went 8.8 i bought a new ford racing LS on summit for $195. Easy to put in.
#7
haha what do you mean how i drive? im an awesome driver...
and the 8.8 in rangers(except the level II's) stock are really not any better than the 7.5's there pretty much the same size. the shafts and width as well as spline count is the same. and the down side with the expo rears are...it looks like alot of fabrication to get them to work-mounting pads, shock mounts, if you blow a shaft your tire can fall out. wtf! + you have to weld the outer shaft to the diff. because i guess the inner clips can fail...idk
and i think if i did go locked-i think the selectable ones are the best, i agree! unfortunantely like you said there 600+ new. i need an electric eaton for $920 new. for that ill get off my *** and lock in the hubs.
i mean with the 8.8 expo were talking tube welding, pad cutting and welding, shock mount relocation, new driveshaft, pinion angles, and disc brakes, new u bolts. sounds like alot of money? i mean i could be wrong
and the 8.8 in rangers(except the level II's) stock are really not any better than the 7.5's there pretty much the same size. the shafts and width as well as spline count is the same. and the down side with the expo rears are...it looks like alot of fabrication to get them to work-mounting pads, shock mounts, if you blow a shaft your tire can fall out. wtf! + you have to weld the outer shaft to the diff. because i guess the inner clips can fail...idk
and i think if i did go locked-i think the selectable ones are the best, i agree! unfortunantely like you said there 600+ new. i need an electric eaton for $920 new. for that ill get off my *** and lock in the hubs.
i mean with the 8.8 expo were talking tube welding, pad cutting and welding, shock mount relocation, new driveshaft, pinion angles, and disc brakes, new u bolts. sounds like alot of money? i mean i could be wrong
Last edited by Kris03; 01-26-2012 at 03:51 PM.
#8
My expo took me 2.5 days to put in only because I sanded the whole thing down, painted it, and took it to a shop to have them weld it for me. It really is not hard at all...
#10
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
All depends on how much you want to spend.
Expos come with L/S as stated.
Ox-Locker, switchable, the heaviest duty diff on the market can be either controlled by a lever/cable setup or ann electric actuation kit - $850 to 900 for just the diff.
ARB - Air actuated switchable locker, HD. $800
An Aussie Locker or other locker that stays in can raise havoc on the street in the winter so unless you like fighting the @ss-end of the truck think on these a little harder. $300 ~
Good Limited Slips put you in the same spot as the Aussie and the like ones, once you start to slip. $300
Then there is the gears - $200, a rebuilding kit $40, wheel bearing $75 plus install.
Think on it before buying.
Expos come with L/S as stated.
Ox-Locker, switchable, the heaviest duty diff on the market can be either controlled by a lever/cable setup or ann electric actuation kit - $850 to 900 for just the diff.
ARB - Air actuated switchable locker, HD. $800
An Aussie Locker or other locker that stays in can raise havoc on the street in the winter so unless you like fighting the @ss-end of the truck think on these a little harder. $300 ~
Good Limited Slips put you in the same spot as the Aussie and the like ones, once you start to slip. $300
Then there is the gears - $200, a rebuilding kit $40, wheel bearing $75 plus install.
Think on it before buying.
#11
#12
How much for price total? $150 for the unit, $50 for paints-wire disks-tape-and cutoff disks, $20 for the new spring pads, $40 for welding.
Total Cost: $260 but I spent a lil more then you have to...
Total Cost: $260 but I spent a lil more then you have to...
#14
260 isnt too bad actually-i gotta find some sources to help me cut and weld of course.
so in order for them to lock in-you have to be going straight correct?
so in order for them to lock in-you have to be going straight correct?
#15
More info here: http://www.powertrax.com/lockright.html
From the website:
"The LOCK-RIGHT's operation is fully automatic. Designed to send the engine power to the wheels with the most traction, the LOCK-RIGHT will help get you where you want to go. While traveling straight the LOCK-RIGHT will lock the axles together similar to a spool. However, when the wheels need to differentiate in a turn, the LOCK-RIGHT will allow the outside wheel to rotate faster to complete the turn. The internal gears on the LOCK-RIGHT will overrun each other to allow this differentiation. When operating off-road, the LOCK-RIGHT will always send the engine power to the wheels that need it most. For example, if you are rock crawling and one wheel is in the air (complete loss of traction), the wheel on the ground will receive the engine power and keep you going. Whether it be snow, sand, mud, ice, etc... the LOCK-RIGHT will give you the traction you need."
I've got the No-Slip (also made my Powertrax) and love it. It functions the same as the Lock-Right...but has better "on-road manners" which you have to pay more for (an extra $80-100). It performs quieter and has better road manners for street usage than the Lock-Right.
From the website:
"The LOCK-RIGHT's operation is fully automatic. Designed to send the engine power to the wheels with the most traction, the LOCK-RIGHT will help get you where you want to go. While traveling straight the LOCK-RIGHT will lock the axles together similar to a spool. However, when the wheels need to differentiate in a turn, the LOCK-RIGHT will allow the outside wheel to rotate faster to complete the turn. The internal gears on the LOCK-RIGHT will overrun each other to allow this differentiation. When operating off-road, the LOCK-RIGHT will always send the engine power to the wheels that need it most. For example, if you are rock crawling and one wheel is in the air (complete loss of traction), the wheel on the ground will receive the engine power and keep you going. Whether it be snow, sand, mud, ice, etc... the LOCK-RIGHT will give you the traction you need."
I've got the No-Slip (also made my Powertrax) and love it. It functions the same as the Lock-Right...but has better "on-road manners" which you have to pay more for (an extra $80-100). It performs quieter and has better road manners for street usage than the Lock-Right.
#16
#17
the no slip sounds like something that i want. im gunna do some searching...thanks guys
and as for the 8.8-maybe i can find one that came off a ranger fx4 lvl2. cutting doesnt sound like a problem. i have a grinder but the welding im more converned with. not sure of any locations that does welding. my local shop may
found the lock rights-go for about 412 on summit
and as for the 8.8-maybe i can find one that came off a ranger fx4 lvl2. cutting doesnt sound like a problem. i have a grinder but the welding im more converned with. not sure of any locations that does welding. my local shop may
found the lock rights-go for about 412 on summit
#18
#19
To clear this up, not ALL Explorer 8.8's have limited slip. I almost bought one without limited slip and with the incorrect gearing for my truck a few weeks back. Just so happens that I thought to check the door sticker and look at the axle code. I saved a photo that has all the axle information on my phone and took it to Pull-a-Part with me. I wound up finding the correct 3.73 L/S 8.8 for my truck. You need to ask this guy for the axle codes on those 8.8's and check to see if they are limited slip and have the gear ratio you're looking for.
#20
#21
To clear this up, not ALL Explorer 8.8's have limited slip. I almost bought one without limited slip and with the incorrect gearing for my truck a few weeks back. Just so happens that I thought to check the door sticker and look at the axle code. I saved a photo that has all the axle information on my phone and took it to Pull-a-Part with me. I wound up finding the correct 3.73 L/S 8.8 for my truck. You need to ask this guy for the axle codes on those 8.8's and check to see if they are limited slip and have the gear ratio you're looking for.
Get one man. You won't regret it. Trust me. Also make sure you crack open the pumpkin when you're checking it out. Check the gears for chips, scratches etc.
#22
Most explorers have L/S. it's rare to find one without. Also your dumb if you don't check the tags before hand.
Get one man. You won't regret it. Trust me. Also make sure you crack open the pumpkin when you're checking it out. Check the gears for chips, scratches etc.
Get one man. You won't regret it. Trust me. Also make sure you crack open the pumpkin when you're checking it out. Check the gears for chips, scratches etc.
#23
And *you're.