Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

Need to figure out wtf is wrong with my brakes

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Old 10-27-2009
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Need to figure out wtf is wrong with my brakes

Ok so I made that thread a few days ago about needing longer lines for the front of my truck, I thought that was what was causing my problems but apparently it isn't. I unbolted the little L brackets and now the soft lines don't stretch anymore so I know they can't be what is causing it. When I make full lock turns my brake pedal has to go in like all the way before the truck slows down. I know it wasn't always like this. I bled all the brakes a little bit ago and had no air in the lines, and see no fluid anywhere leaking. My axle was supposedly from an 06 with 10k miles so I havent bothered to take off the rear drums to see if the wheel cylinders are leaking. Looked at the master cylinder and it is all dry around it aswell. Fluid level is fine too.

Any ideas?
 
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Old 10-27-2009
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I would take a peak in the rear drums, and see what the wheel cylinders look like. Mine are shot I know that they just never wore right from day one and i've got a 05 with 65k miles, they have been bad for a while not.

They are not really leaking fluid, but they give me a skipping motion when im braking. Also Since around 5,000 miles the trucks rear brakes squeeled, and I figured out what it was when I finally got over the new car feeling, and I pulled stuff apart, they brakes were not adjusting at all. But thats a different story.

I don't know if that helps at all. Did you check the calipers? Could they be leaking fluid where they touch the pads?

Other than that, nothing suprises me anymore with fords, they seem to not be able to get brakes quite right now. But sure do charge a pretty penny for their brake services... 68 dollars for a star adjuster nut....... a**holes.

Could it be the master cylinder or something like that as well? it could just be a coincidence with the new axle.
 
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Old 10-27-2009
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How long have the front lines been stretched? because it could have caused them to separate from the clamp fittings. Make sure your caliper slides are properly working. doesn't really make sense that it only happens when at full lock. So something has to be lose or leaking somewhere. normally when wheel cylinders start leaking it kinda looks like an axle seal went out in the drums. it could also be leaking into your brake booster but normally it would cause your fluid level to go down due to your truck burning brake fluid.
 
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Old 10-27-2009
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does it do it full lock in both directions?? I wonder if maybe the lines stretched too much and maybe it screwed them up.
 
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Old 10-27-2009
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typical spindle lifted truck turn to full lock and the caliper hits the control arm and bleeds back fluid causing a soft petal
 
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Old 10-27-2009
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Originally Posted by Dangerranger01
does it do it full lock in both directions?? I wonder if maybe the lines stretched too much and maybe it screwed them up.
Yep, both directions. That is possible, maybe Ill get new brake lines tomorrow.

Originally Posted by Hanks Rangers
How long have the front lines been stretched? because it could have caused them to separate from the clamp fittings. Make sure your caliper slides are properly working. doesn't really make sense that it only happens when at full lock. So something has to be lose or leaking somewhere. normally when wheel cylinders start leaking it kinda looks like an axle seal went out in the drums. it could also be leaking into your brake booster but normally it would cause your fluid level to go down due to your truck burning brake fluid.
Yeah the whole only at full lock thing is what gets me. They don't feel as firm as they used to when the wheels are straight either tho, but at full lock they are definitely much worse. I dont even know how long the truck has been lifted so I couldnt answer on how long they have been stretched, but it just recently started to do this.

Originally Posted by nross
I would take a peak in the rear drums, and see what the wheel cylinders look like. Mine are shot I know that they just never wore right from day one and i've got a 05 with 65k miles, they have been bad for a while not.

They are not really leaking fluid, but they give me a skipping motion when im braking. Also Since around 5,000 miles the trucks rear brakes squeeled, and I figured out what it was when I finally got over the new car feeling, and I pulled stuff apart, they brakes were not adjusting at all. But thats a different story.

I don't know if that helps at all. Did you check the calipers? Could they be leaking fluid where they touch the pads?

Other than that, nothing suprises me anymore with fords, they seem to not be able to get brakes quite right now. But sure do charge a pretty penny for their brake services... 68 dollars for a star adjuster nut....... a**holes.

Could it be the master cylinder or something like that as well? it could just be a coincidence with the new axle.
I'll take a peak at everything some more tomorrow before I mess with it.

Originally Posted by Redneckstone
typical spindle lifted truck turn to full lock and the caliper hits the control arm and bleeds back fluid causing a soft petal
Elaborate on this, it doesn't make sense to me. How would the caliper hitting affect what the fluid is doing it all? Since I unbolted the L brackets my lines dont stretch any more.
 
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Old 10-27-2009
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has nothing to do with the lines.

Trigger truck does it too.

ok spindles lower the assembly so the caliper is lower and close to the lower control arm. when you turn say right to lock. the caliper will touch the lower control arm acting as the "bump stop", caliper is on slides so the caliper will slide in causing the piston to compress. (ever do a brake job? before you install the new pads you take a C-clap to the piston to compress it same principle) its like reverse bleeding, the fluid comes back threw the master cylinder into the reservoir. you will temporally lose brake pressure and have to reapply the brakes to re-build up pressure. kinda of like bleeding the brakes....

that enough info?
 

Last edited by Redneckstone; 10-27-2009 at 11:45 PM.
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Old 10-27-2009
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Ok makes sense. Never thought I'd say this, but, thanks Zach.


Someone better quote that **** lol.
 
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Old 10-28-2009
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Zach is right Korey my truck did the same thing
 
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Old 10-28-2009
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my truck does the same thing
 
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Old 10-28-2009
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sounds like you need to adjust the steering stops
 
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Old 10-28-2009
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I'm gonna call fabtech try and get them to send me some, dumbass who owned the truck before me didn't put them on. ****ing moron put one of the lift blocks backwards too that I had to fix right when I got the truck.
 
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Old 10-28-2009
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You could weld on little extensions to the factory steering stops if you didnt want to wait/deal with fabtech sending you some. It wouldn't be hard to make up.
 
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Old 10-28-2009
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I'll have to look at them, good idea trent.


I just got off the phone with fabtech and the guy told me that if I just go to any local retailer they will order them for you. For everyone else here are the part numbers for the stops themselves, you will probably have to add hardware.

PASS. STEERING STOP FT98200-7-101P
DRIV. STEERING STOP FT98200-7-101D
 
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Old 10-28-2009
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The true fix is to get rid of that Fabtech crap. My buddy works there and he said he wouldn't run any of their crap on his truck.
 
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Old 10-28-2009
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Tell your buddy to send me those stops for free lol
 
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Old 10-28-2009
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He used to be able to get hookups but one person screwed that one up. He was getting the parts for really cheap and selling them on ebay.
 
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Old 10-28-2009
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We can just have him act like I bought the kit and they weren't in it
 
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Old 10-28-2009
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They would probably want a receipt or some other proof of purchase.
 
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Old 10-28-2009
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Thats what your friend is for idiot lol
 
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Old 10-28-2009
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Found this on RPS

 
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Old 10-28-2009
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Originally Posted by korey89
Thats what your friend is for idiot lol
Well he can't do **** without paperwork idiot.
 
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