Alright ive bleed the clutch a few times and is still not getting any resistance on my clutch pedal. Anyone have any ideas, Ive changed the slave cylinder but still no luck.

 

PINPOINT TEST C: CLUTCH HYDRAULIC SYSTEM CHECK
Test Step Result / Action to Take
C1 CHECK THE FLUID LEVEL
NOTE: Do not check the hydraulic system after the road test. Allow the vehicle to cool down before carrying out the clutch hydraulic system check.
Remove the clutch reservoir cap and clutch reservoir diaphragm.

Check the fluid level of the clutch reservoir.
Is the fluid level at or above the step mark?
Yes
INSTALL the clutch reservoir cap and diaphragm. GO to C2 .

No
ADD brake fluid to the specified level. GO to C2 .
C2 INSPECT THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM FOR LEAKAGE
Check the reservoir and reservoir lines for leakage.
Check the master cylinder and hydraulic line for leakage.
Check the clutch slave cylinder and the hydraulic line connection for leakage.
Are there any signs of leakage?
Yes
INSTALL new components as necessary. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
GO to C3.
C3 CHECK INTERNAL OPERATION
Remove the reservoir cap and reservoir diaphragm.
Have an assistant slowly depress and release the clutch pedal.
On the down stroke, the fluid level should not increase by more than 1 mm (0.039 in).
Does the fluid level increase more than 1 mm (0.039 in)?
Yes
INSTALL a new cylinder master cylinder assembly.

No
GO to C4.
C4 CHECK THE CLUTCH PEDAL RESERVE
NOTE: The clutch reserve is the distance between the clutch pedal when fully depressed and the position when the vehicle starts to move forward.
Park the vehicle on a level surface.
Check for obstructions behind clutch pedal.
Attach a cable tie to the lower clutch pedal.

Attach a tape measure to the cable tie.
Depress the clutch fully and start the vehicle.
Shift the transmission into first gear.

While observing the tape measure, slowly engage the clutch, noting when the vehicle starts to move forward.

Is the clutch pedal reserve greater than or equal to 25 mm (1 in)?
Yes
The clutch hydraulic system is OK. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
GO to C5.
C5 CHECK THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER TRAVEL
NOTE: The clutch slave cylinder travel is the distance the bearing portion moves forward when the clutch is fully depressed.
With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position on a hoist.
Remove the inspection plug.

Using a wooden ruler, index-mark the rear of the bearing onto the ruler. Have an assistant fully depress the clutch pedal. Index-mark the rear of the bearing. Measure the distance between the two index marks.


Is the clutch slave cylinder travel equal to 10.2 mm (0.4 in) ?
Yes
GO to C6.

No
GO to C8.
C6 CHECK THE CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE
Remove the clutch pressure plate. Refer to Section 308-01.
Inspect the clutch pressure plate for wear or runout. Refer to Pressure Plate Check in this section.
Are there any signs of excessive wear or runout to the clutch pressure plate?
Yes
INSTALL a new clutch pressure plate. REFER to Section 308-01.

No
GO to C7.
C7 INSPECT THE CLUTCH DISC
Carry out the clutch disc inspection procedure in this section.
Is the clutch disc OK?
Yes
GO to C8.

No
INSTALL a new clutch disc. REFER to Section 308-01. TEST the system for normal operation.
C8 CHECK CLUTCH PEDAL FREE PLAY
NOTE: The clutch pedal free play is the distance between the clutch pedal when fully released and the position when slight resistance is felt on downward motion.
Engine OFF.
Attach a tape measure to the cable tie.
While observing the tape measure, slowly push downward on the clutch pedal until a slight resistance is felt.

Is the clutch pedal free play less than 13 mm (0.5 in)?
Yes
The clutch hydraulic system is OK. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
GO to C9.
C9 CHECK CLUTCH PEDAL FREE PLAY WITH THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER DISCONNECTED
CAUTION: Do not bleed clutch hydraulic system.
With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position on a hoist.
Clean the area around the connector. Using the special tool, disconnect the hydraulic line from the clutch slave cylinder.

Lower the vehicle.
Check the clutch pedal free play.

Attach a tape measure to the cable tie.
While observing the tape measure, slowly push downward on the clutch pedal until a slight resistance is felt.
Is the clutch pedal free play less than 13 mm (0.5 in)?
Yes
RECONNECT the hydraulic line to the clutch slave cylinder. GO to C10 .

No
INSTALL a new clutch master cylinder. REFER to Section 308-02. DEPRESS and RELEASE the clutch pedal 15 full strokes. Clutch pedal should feel firm. RECHECK clutch pedal free play. If free play is greater than 13 mm (0.5 in), GO to C10 .
C10 BLEED THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER
Remove the clutch reservoir cap and diaphragm. Check the fluid level. Fill the reservoir to or above the step mark. Install the cap and diaphragm.
Depress and release the clutch pedal several times to stabilize the clutch hydraulic system.
With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position on a hoist.
Remove the bleeder screw cover and attach a vinyl hose to the bleeder hose. Place the other end of the vinyl hose into a clear container partially filled with brake fluid.
Have an assistant depress and release the clutch pedal five times, then hold the clutch pedal down. With the clutch pedal depressed, loosen the bleeder screw to let air escape the clutch system. Tighten the bleeder screw. Repeat this process until no air comes through the vinyl hose.
Tighten the bleeder screw and install the bleeder screw cover.
Slowly pump the clutch pedal several times to verify there is no fluid leakage.

Depress and release the clutch pedal two short cycles, and three full-travel cycles.
Make sure the clutch reservoir is at the correct level. Refill as necessary.
Does the clutch hydraulic system operate correctly?

 

I havn't read was manuel wrote yet...



But change that master cyl!! I just changed mine yesterday and had the same problems as you. And my truck has NEVER driven this nice in the 4 years i've owned it. Change that cuz it's somewhat easy to do. And if that doesn't cure it, time to drop that trans again due to a defect slave cyl.

 

get a vac pump thats what i used on mine took me like 2 min to blead my clutch

 

your master cylinder holds enough air in it that you'll never bleed it out without taking the master cylinder out of the truck. Take it out, bench bleed it and reinstall. You could buy a new one if you want but I kept mine and it works great.

 

I got the vac pump, Bleed it got the clutch solid for a couple of pumps then it went soft again. Good thing advance auto had a master cylinder ill be bench bleeding that in the morning then installing it. I hope thats it. I REALLY miss driving my truck.

 

Yup, you need to bench bleed the master cylinder and hydraulic line.

 

its goin to be done first thing in the morning.

 

I was told my ford not to bench bleed it.....so I didnt. and I did the whole let it drain. then push to the floor and hold, open bleeder.......three cycles.


Some suggestions....since I just did it yesterday.....



-Pull your driver seat. Makes it easier for me since i'm sorta big....
-use a screwdriver to pop the shaft off the top of the pedal.
-taking the safety switch off the shaft can be somewhat tricky.....pull it off it's "notch", rotate 190 degrees, and take off the yellowish/white thing on the opposite side of the plug in, once that's out, you can remove the switch from the shaft.
-pull your left side inner fender....SOOO much easier!
-My Motorcraft replacement didn't come with the shaft/pushrod installed...so i ripped it out of the old master by taking off the snap ring that holds it and it's retainer in. then proceeded to tear off the retaining clip thing till it came off. cleaned the shaft, dabbed on a lil grease, and slid the shaft into the new master.
-pull that driver inner fender...makes it so much easier to remove/install the master.
-put the safety switch in before attaching the shaft to the pedal....little more difficult to install the switch with the shaft clipped into the pedal.


Hope you can use those little tips.

Shane

 

Thanks everyone for the help. Ive finally got it fixed and drove it today. Now comes the break in part.

 

that's great to hear. You'll love that spec2!

 

Hey everybody,
I'm new here as of today. Yesterday I started the seemingly simple task of bleeding my 1994 Ranger XLT 2.3 liters Clutch system. My pedal was catching really close to the floor and I figured I'd give it a quick bleed to see if that would help. I replaced the Clutch, TO bearing, slave cylinder last year and again, I figured the system just had to be bled. Well....if I knew what I was getting into, I may have just drove it the way it was.
I bled it like I was bleeding brakes and at the end had NO pedal at all! That's when I decided to check out a few forums and I'm glad I found this one. I read about gravity bleeding and jacking the front end up enought to compensate for the angle of the master cylinder and a bunch of other tips. I tried almost everything to absoulutlely no avail. The only thing I didn't try was to take the master cylinder off the fire wall and turn it pretty much upside down and then gravity bleed it. Well this morning that's what I did and it worked!!!. I removed the fender inside liner which I read on this forum, and It made it much easier to access the Master cylinder bolts. I had to remove the line from the slave cylinder to have enough play to pull the entier master cylinder from the wall to flip it upside down. After gravity bleeding it in that position, I then bled it like brakes. Pumped the pedal slowly 5 times and releasing the bleeder screw. Did that like 4 times. This worked for me!! I honestly thought I was going to have to take it to be fixed, which I haven't done in years. I hope this helps you or anyone out there and THANK YOU to everyone who took the time and posted help in this forum.

 

Nice.

I got the clutch and flywheel out of Barney this afternoon. Soon as I get a flywheel, I'll be going through this whole deal.

Welcome to R-F, great first post Joe!

 

That's GREAT joe! Glad we can help. This is truely the best Ranger forum out there.

 

that is what i did,i had the same problem