Slave Cylinder/Clutch Help
#1
Join Date: May 2011
Location: buffalo, ny
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Slave Cylinder/Clutch Help
I’ve been doing some troubleshooting and research on 3 different ranger forums and decided to post up a question and get some input.
I have a 2003 Fx4 Level II with the 4.0 SOHC, manual transmission, and manual transfer case. About a month or so ago it started shifting harder than normal. Then I was driving it the one day and the pedal seemed a lot softer than normal and wouldn’t engage into first very well (or disengage for that matter). I was able to drive home by shutting off the engine at stoplights and shifting into first, then starting back up. There was just enough pressure for me to start the truck up and not lurch or stall out. Then I basically rev-matched the rest of the way home.
Now, I can’t even start it in 1st or reverse with the clutch all the way depressed, so I have no way to take it anywhere aside from having it towed. I tried gravity bleeding the slave and then with an assistant. At first what came through the line looked like it had tiny rust or dirt particles in it. (Not sure if that is a clue to a shot slave or anything.) Doing that didn’t help at all. Then I went and disconnected the master cylinder and bled that. That did not help either. The clutch pedal is basically dead.
So at this point I’m assuming I’m going to need to replace the slave and all else (clutch, bearings, etc) while I’m in there. Does this seem like the right thing to do? Also I have heard a lot of people talk about clutch kits on the forums and online, but no one ever lists any brands or part numbers. Does anyone have one they would recommend?
Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions!!
I have a 2003 Fx4 Level II with the 4.0 SOHC, manual transmission, and manual transfer case. About a month or so ago it started shifting harder than normal. Then I was driving it the one day and the pedal seemed a lot softer than normal and wouldn’t engage into first very well (or disengage for that matter). I was able to drive home by shutting off the engine at stoplights and shifting into first, then starting back up. There was just enough pressure for me to start the truck up and not lurch or stall out. Then I basically rev-matched the rest of the way home.
Now, I can’t even start it in 1st or reverse with the clutch all the way depressed, so I have no way to take it anywhere aside from having it towed. I tried gravity bleeding the slave and then with an assistant. At first what came through the line looked like it had tiny rust or dirt particles in it. (Not sure if that is a clue to a shot slave or anything.) Doing that didn’t help at all. Then I went and disconnected the master cylinder and bled that. That did not help either. The clutch pedal is basically dead.
So at this point I’m assuming I’m going to need to replace the slave and all else (clutch, bearings, etc) while I’m in there. Does this seem like the right thing to do? Also I have heard a lot of people talk about clutch kits on the forums and online, but no one ever lists any brands or part numbers. Does anyone have one they would recommend?
Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions!!
#2
I just replaced my slave a couple weeks ago. Don't remember the part # but I got it at Autozone for about 60 bucks. It's a hell of a job, I had to drop the exhaust, starter, both drive shafts, tranny & t-case. Just to get to the 1 minute slave change. Then put it all back together. It's definitely a good idea to replace anything remotely wore out while you're in there, clutch assembly, rear main seal , pilot bearing. You don't want to hafta do all the work to get back in there any time soon. Don't mean to make it sound like a nightmare, it can be done. It's just gonna take a while, especially if you hafta go to work or school. Get some help if you can. good luck
#4
Classic slave cylinder symptoms. The same symptoms apply to the master cyl too, but the slave tends to fail at a 3:1 rate with the master. Master tends to squeak when you cycle the clutch.
I've had good luck with Raybestos and Saches brand slave cylinders. They've lasted me the longest. It's best to source this part locally with the warranty.
Clutches...you can't go wrong with the Ford OEM from Luk. This part would be best to order online....like from RockAuto.com. Don't forget a pilot bearing and getting the flywheel machined....or order a new one.
You will need a reverse torx socket (E6??) to remove the flywheel bolts.
I've had good luck with Raybestos and Saches brand slave cylinders. They've lasted me the longest. It's best to source this part locally with the warranty.
Clutches...you can't go wrong with the Ford OEM from Luk. This part would be best to order online....like from RockAuto.com. Don't forget a pilot bearing and getting the flywheel machined....or order a new one.
You will need a reverse torx socket (E6??) to remove the flywheel bolts.
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