Okay I've tried searching but haven't found the info I'm looking for. What are the differences between posi and limited slip. I understand posi is full time but how does limited slip work and what are the pro's and cons of the two. It would be going in a daily driver not a trail rig. I have a 7.5 with 4.10 gearing now and thinking about a 8.8, but unsure if it's worth it.
posi-rear - if spider gear is welded both wheels always turn at the same speed LS - uses a system of clutches to let one wheel rotate slower around turns but approaches locking of both wheels if slip occurs Torsen - uses a system of gears to approach the locking of boths shafts if slipping occurs - does not wear out like a regular LS locker - can lock both rear shafts - might cause uneven wear of rear tires and possible loss of traction if it locks up in turns with limited traction of both tires
best of both worlds is a switchable locker
acts as a LS unless locked via an in cab switch
switching action is via a pressurized tube or electro magnetic solenoid in the rear end
search under ARB, Auburn or Eaton for these types
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For a daily driver with some trail use... The Detroit TruTrac torque sensing gear operated limited slip does a fine job on asphault and dirt.... Much better than the factory Trash Loc... No clutches to wear out and no need for friction modifier.
I used one in my Jeep for quite a few years... With the proper driving technique; you will have no problems having it engage (lock up) on the trail.
That one will work with your ABS because it has the tone ring installed. You can transfer your tone ring but it is a PITA. I would try to find a diff that didn't include the ring and pinion but has the tone ring already installed. I put a LS in my truck and swapping the tone ring was the hardest part of the job.
Three months ago I removed the factory open carrier and installed a Detroit TruTrac in the 8.8. Removal of the carrier bearings off the factory carrier was the most time consuming...
Not sure what problems you had removing the tone ring....The only problem I can think of was breaking the surface tension of the oil between the carrier and the tone ring and that was solved by warming up the surface with a MAP torch.
I bought new bearings and had them pressed on by the machinist where I work - so that was easiest part for me
I broke the damn tone ring trying to get it off, heated the damn thing up with a torch too. It was REALLY pressed on!
Guess the inside of tone ring to the outside of the carrier was MORE than just an interference fit on yours.
Did you notice any burrs or marks where the two were galled upon assembly???
We heated the tone ring with the torch and smacked the ring with a brass hammer.... It moved almost immediately and then we worked the full circumference of the ring until it dropped off...
Prior to installation onto the new carrier.... we took scotch brite and cleaned both surfaces then applied some synthetic grease to both prior to reassembly.