Today was the first day I drove my truck to work after installing the 700r4 auto tranny. All went well except the tranny didn't down shift, which is a cable adjustment. I'd go up a hill starting at 2100 rpm at 65 mpg and the low rpms couldn't keep pace with the hill. The 1-2 shift came too quick but thats just a spring change in the governor.

I drive 60 miles to work. Another 20 around town, then another 55 miles to home when the clunk clunk happens.

I pull over and look underneath. I see smoke coming out the transfer case. What the??? I look closer and neither the fill plug nor the drain plug is on the case. Smoke is coming out of the fill hole.

I get some plugs and some fluid and fill it up. It's trash.

The thing that bothers me- where are the plugs? Options:
1. I drained the unit and didn't reinstall them. I remember specifically NOT draining the unit. I checked the box I used for all the parts from the tranny swap. There were not plugs in the box.
2. I never reinstalled the dampener unit onto the transfer case. Could this one piece cause a vibration that backed out the plugs? Seems odd but who knows.
3. Someone is laughing their *** off right now if they removed the plugs as a prank/vandal.

The likely scenario is I drained it and didn't remember. This project has lasted months. I have visually inspected the underneath several times over the last couple of weeks as I have made short local drives testing the tranny out. To the point that I drive to Lowes, look underneath and on the ground when I get there, then looking again as I leave. No drips and no smoke wewre evident.

Sorry for the long thread. I'm just dumbfounded.

 

hey welcome, I just drove my truck 3 hours up north to have it get off the highway and have my transfer case chain break. Fun stuff, its just the way I wanted to start out a weekend of partying. (thats what I'm thinking, I have to wait until this weekend to tow it home to find out exactly)

 

As much as it sucks you must have forgotten to put them in and fill it up because these plugs DO NOT vibrate out when tightened down. They have a pipe thread on them and get tighter as they are screwed in. At least the electric 1354s are cheap as anything. Hell get an older 1354 from a 90-97 ranger or 91-96 explorer and a standard double cardan driveshaft from a 95 or 96 explorer and upgrade away from the cv joint front driveshaft. You can find the older electric 1354 t-cases for 50 bucks all over the place. Hell places practically give them away.


And it's great to hear you have the 700R4 in and running. Keep us updated on how the tranny is once you get this fixed and all the little things worked out with the t-case.

 

Damn wayne that's wild! I don't know what to tell ya!

 

Holy crap. that is weird. But if you cannot find the plugs then either they fell out or someone stole them. Not sure what kind of crappy prank that is.

 

I guess both driveshafts and the transfer case have to come off to tow it. I'll do that this evening- At least get the truck home. I'll get to a wrecking yard in the next few days.

 

that sucks Wayne......

like TireIron said, get yourself a BW1354 from a '97 and older Ranger so you can get away from the crappy '98+ front driveshaft.....

 

the 98 plus driveshaft is actually a really good setup when not lifted. I dont see why he needs to change if he does not want to put either the superlift or RCD on it. And in that case he can just run the superlift shaft.

 

the '98+ CV driveshaft is weaker than the '97 and older double cardon driveshaft.....the double cardon can handle a lot more than the CV...

 

what does it need to be stronger for with only 33s?

 

why not he put in a stronger transmission.....and the t-case would be cheaper off a '97 Ranger than off an '03 Ranger.....and if he ever plans on lifting it......

 

I guess the donor vehicle will answer the question. I'm not gonna have a lot of choices at the wrecking yard. It will probably be from an explorer based on previous trips there. Anything I need to know coming off an explorer?

 

'95+ will be a direct bolt in for you......driveshaft and all...

 

got the truck back home. One good thing- removing the parts is easy. The pick 'n pull only wants $60 for transfer cases. The problem is they were all gone. Except a 13-50 from a Bronco II. It was wierd. The 13-50 had a plug where the front drive shaft should connect. Did they put these in 2wd and 4wd Bronco II's? Never seen anything like it.

The other yards want $550 - $700 for one. I can wait for a better deal.

 

Yeah I live in Ct, center top of the state and I'm going to end up driving into mass to go pick one up. The yards think they have gold lying there and can sell them for almost as much as a brand new one.

 

do NOT get a 1350.....you will have to redo your rear driveshaft setup.....the slip joint is in the t-case, not the driveshaft.......you would much rather have it in the driveshaft...

 

well, if he has to get a new driveshaft anyway, why not get a 1350?

 

i would guess he has already got a new driveshaft since he was driving the truck around with the new tranny....i don't think he would drive it in front wheel drive....

the slip joint in the t-case isn't a good idea.....they are prone to poping out even with the smallest amount of flex........the slip joint in the driveshaft itself allows for more travel than that of one in a t-case.....and the 1354 t-case is stronger than a 1350...

 

yeah, 1354 transfer case with a single piece drive shaft.

 

how would the front driveshaft on a 1350 on a 98+ 4x4 slip out? I thought the front axle doesnt move, just the CV's? So in theory the driveshaft would never move up and down, so there shouldnt be a chance of slipping


also, i dont know what he has stock, so i assumed when he gets a 1354 he'd need a different front driveshaft


just wondering, cause im sitting on a 1350 and it was free, and im thinking of using it

ScottG

 

I wasn't talking about the front driveshaft....i was talking about the rear....the rear driveshaft has the slip joint in the t-case, not in the shaft.....

all Rangers from i think '95+ has the BW1354 t-case......IF he gets a 1354 from a '95-'97 Ranger, then yes he will need a new front driveshaft to mate to the double cardon joint at the driveshaft, BUT if he gets a 1354 out of a '98+ EVERYTHING will bolt up just like normal......including the front and rear driveshafts.....

and i can't remember which years, but i believe that Rangers and 1354's had the speed sensor in the t-case.....so if he gets that year t-case, then he could also solve his speed sensor problem also.....even if it ment a new front driveshaft so he would have the double cardon, it would solve his speedodomer issue (if he already hasn't)

 

NO ranger t-case, 1350 or 1354 used a slip shaft output for the rear driveshaft, they all used a flanged output. Most 1350s DO use the slip shaft output on the front driveshaft however and those driveshafts do not have a double cardan setup in them, they are just a single joint at each end.

and yes the 97 and older 1354s have a speed spensor in the t-case if he needs one.

 

ahhh i just had my shafts messed up....i could have swore that the 1350's had the slip joint in the rear of the t-case...

my appologies scott!

 

hey its ok

im just looking into the pro's and cons of running a 1350 on a 98+ 4x4

 

i would run a 1354 from a '95-'97 Ranger....stronger t-case than the 1350.....and it doesn't have a slip joint in the t-case.....the only difference in the '97 1354 and '98+ 1354 is the front driveshaft connection...