Rear-end...RIP
#1
Rear-end...Out again...what happened?
Well, about 6 months ago, I swapped my rearend out from a 7.5 open dif, to a 7.5 LSD dif. centering pin went out on the open dif, so I was able to get the lsd for free from a friend. well today, driving to autozone of all places, noticed something started popping really bad. I got out of the truck and let my friend drive in circles while I looked at the truck to see if I could hear/see anything. sure enough, when first starting out it would pop, and then when turning in very tight turns, it would pop non-stop. I could also see the axle jumping around, mainly the driver side. Babied it back to the apt, and started the investigation. took the inspection cover off, out with the fluid comes chunks of teeth and metal shavings, getting interesting. I thought I was going to see another centering pin out again, nope, definetly had messed up spider gears with tips of teeth missing. Im taking my carrier to the shop tommarow to get new spiders in there. anyone know what may have caused this? I dont burn out. roughest i've been on it is in the mud, but I dont see how that would have messed it up, any ideas of what may have happened?
#2
options I can take:
the 4wd shop here said it would cost 800 dollars to replace the spider gears with an auburn gear lsd. not going with that one. so here are the other options I am thinking
Find a 8.8" in a junkyard, can get it for about $100. My dad claims to remeber seeing somewhere that you can't put an 8.8" in a ranger with a 3.0...anyone know anything of this sort?
I could find a 7.5" rear end in a junkyard, and either pull the carrier and ring out as a whole, or could just pull the whole rear end out. complete axle: $100. not sure exactly how much for just the carrier/ring/spider gears.
Or I can possibly find an aftermarket LSD or locker for the rear, I beleive that powertrax makes a locker for the 7.5" for about $235
what do ya'll think would be the best/easiest. trying not to have to set gears up.
the 4wd shop here said it would cost 800 dollars to replace the spider gears with an auburn gear lsd. not going with that one. so here are the other options I am thinking
Find a 8.8" in a junkyard, can get it for about $100. My dad claims to remeber seeing somewhere that you can't put an 8.8" in a ranger with a 3.0...anyone know anything of this sort?
I could find a 7.5" rear end in a junkyard, and either pull the carrier and ring out as a whole, or could just pull the whole rear end out. complete axle: $100. not sure exactly how much for just the carrier/ring/spider gears.
Or I can possibly find an aftermarket LSD or locker for the rear, I beleive that powertrax makes a locker for the 7.5" for about $235
what do ya'll think would be the best/easiest. trying not to have to set gears up.
#6
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The explorer axle will probably be more work than he wants. He's got a 4x4 and the spring under axle design on the explorer will lower the rear of his truck. If he's good at welding he could get new spring perches but like I said that's probably more work than he wants. An 8.8" from a Ranger would work best because it'd be a simply bolt up. And if he is planning on lifting the truck eventually he'll want the 8.8" for bigger tires.
#7
ya I wouldnt mind the explorer axle. Im a certified welder, so that wouldnt be a big deal to do, but getting the angles and stuff for the driveshaft would be my brain sore. If I stay with the 7.5", what do you think about a powertrax locker? I was discussing this with my dad, and he told me he didnt want me changing the rear end out again. Plus trying to get the truck on the road again, its my main point of transportation. If I was paying for it, definetley I would go with the 8.8". but since I paid for the last one, he said he'd fix this. I'll talk to him tommarow and tell him that an 8.8 can be put in a 3.0 and see what he says. anyone have any issues or opinions about the locker in the 7.5?
#9
done!!!
Theres the 8.8 bolted up, coated with undercoated and painted gray, definetly alot heavier and bigger than the 7.5. Next for it though, is either an LSD or Locker of some type, the open diff doesnt like rain. I couldnt stop spinning yesterday. It should be able to withstand my harsh driving though, lol. My finger definetly took a hit from the axle, stopped bleeding FINALLY this morning, shouldve gotten stitches, to late now though, oh well. haha.
Tip: for installing a rear-end it makes it a hell of a lot easier to put the diff in a rim mounted on a tire. make sure its an old rim that you dont care it gets scratched, if you do them put a towel or something down. this worked perfectly for me. it will be almost perfect enough to be able to get the blocks in and the ubolts, I also have stacked blocks, maybe a little different with those with the stock blocks, but either way, the tire would have saved my finger, if I was thinking quicker.
#13
the 7.5 was fine when the 1st gen rangers came out, with the newer powerplants (excp the 4.0 ) the 8.8 is a much better axle. my '88 2.3 did fine with the 7.5 but i wouldnt want anything less than the 8.8 behind the 4.0 i now have. someday id like to put in a powertrax unit myself, having 4wd it isnt a top priority though.
#14
That was my second 7.5". I got tired of replacing rearends, so thats what made me decided on the 8.8", that and also the amount of lockers offered for them. Im looking at getting the ARB air locker for it, especially since I am on the interstate more than offroading. The open dif I have now, Im not really to sure how it will do, we'll find out this weekend though.
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