Thanks again Kyle!
I put it on tight the first time Gerald so please stop acting like I installed the thing wrong.
I've had a couple other people tell me that the torque spec on that axle nut is 162 ft pounds and I'm just going to buy a Chilton manual and look it up myself because my 1/2 drive torque wrench only goes up to 150 ft lbs and I really layed into that thing and I could only get it up to 130 ft. lbs.
So, something just isn't right about this.
I'm very close to converting the damn thing to a 2WD, so if anyone is interested in convering their 2001-2007 2WD Ranger Edge or Sport over to a 4X4 with a 5 speed transmission let me know.

 

What I was getting at was: If it was a NEW part and it failed after 4 miles then it was improperly torqued, or installed wrong, but I missed the part where you said it was USED. My bad.

I also posted the torque spec in this thread for you 14hrs ago. I'm trying to help but I'll stop now and from here on out.


GB :)

 

Just replaced hubs on 2000 ford ranger 4x4 xlt. 4WABS & PVH. The pulse vacuum hub is definately something to stay away from if you can avoid it at all costs.... never know when my 4x4 is working and when its not or if one is in and the other is out! Most rediculous thing I've ever seen and cost 170.00 per side. Crazy stuff!

 

I dont remember it being that high. Ill look up the spec in my ford manual when i get home in about an hour.

 

It's been posted as being the same in at least 2 different threads that I've seen recently Chris. It's been posted elsewhere on the net as being 157 to 213 Ft-lbs.. I'd stick with the 160 myself.



GB :)

 

Im not saying it isnt that. In fact that most likely is the correct spec but it just seems off to me.

 

Wirelessly posted (Android)

Just looked it up Ford shop manual says 162ft-lbs

For some reason I was thinking it was in the 130 range but o well

 

Hey Chris,

Thanks for looking that up for me.

I was definitely thinking 130 too, especially when the 1/2 drive torque wrench only goes up to 150 lbs.
I'm thinking that there something wrong with the driver's side half shaft now because it's putting too much pressure on the new hub I just installed. I tightened the axle nut down to 160 lbs (had to use a pipe) now I'm hearing a scraping sound and it's not the brakes. I might need a new axle nut or the threads could be messed up on the half shaft.

How much does a half shaft usually cost and where could I get a new axle nut?

 

Here's a few pictures of the NEW hub unit that I installed today. I highly recommend going with a SKF unit over the TIMKEN unit.
(I really need that new axle nut, if anyone knows where I can get a new one please let me know)

 

Agreed on the SKF. That's what I put in mine and no issues at all. Better warranty too than many of the other manufacturers.

 

How long is the warranty Adam?? I see no differences otherwise.



GB :)

 

SKF has a lifetime guarantee/waranty and TIMKEN has 3-year warranty

Sounds like a no-brainer to me and NAPA doesn't even sell TIMKEN

(Wonder why )

 

Napa doesn't sell Timken for completely different reasons than what you're getting at, but thanks for the info anyway.



GB :)

 

timken is the #1 bearing manufacturer. most places go with skf because they are cheaper to purchase. but i would recommend both to anyone

 

i have a 99 ranger with the PVH and i hated them. i was told the switch was bad so i had to go to a dealership and get the switch cause its a dealer only part. after i put it on it still didnt work so i just wasted $75. so i read up on PVH and found out that you can mod them so they act like the live axle models (2001+) but i was told by a friend that i was retarded for doing that cause my year wasnt setup like the live axles models. that my front end was gonna fail sooner cause i did that. so then i found soon manual locking hubs from rugged riged for $160 i think for the pair. ever sence i got the manual hubs my 4x4 has been working perfectly

i hope this helps anyone with the PVH setup

 

Ok, here's a clue ... NAPA doesn't sell TIMKEN bearings because they're junk ... nuff said
end of discussion.

 

Hahahaa!! You've got to be kidding. Napa doesn't carry a LOT of very good brands of parts because they don't have contracts with those manufacturers. It's as simple as that.

Let me get this straight, as I may be confused.

You put a used Timken hub on the truck and it failed in 4 miles? Plus you didn't know the correct torque numbers and apply them? Is that right? Cuz that's what I've gathered from this thread so far..





GB :)

 

What i've gathered from this thread is that Jesus himself is the creator of NAPA. Sounds like this guy would buy groceries from NAPA if they sold them.

 

I just read thru this thread and I can't believe you guys actually think the amount of torque would ruin a bearing in 4 miles. Not to mention the torque in question is for the axle shaft and has absolutely nothing to do with the bearing. The axle shaft is splined into the inner race with no spinning inside the bearing unlike a PVH bearing that actually has 2 bearing, one for the axle and one for the wheel bearing. The axle is torqued down to the inside race which is also the flange that holds the wheel on the truck and the rotor.

The junk yard bearing was junk...period! The only way it could have been a improper install would be if he didn't even tighten the bolts on the flange that holds it in. Now with that said I have used used bearings quite a few times with no problems. I bought a complete spindle with bearing from a junkyard and installed it on one of the trucks(not sure which one) I have also used generic bearings with no problems. I have one on number 14 and have been driving it for about 2 years without any problems. I paid 60 bucks for it off of ebay.

 

I can't believe they think the amount of torque would ruin a bearing in 4 miles either. I finally took it into a shop yesterday because this was like one of those mysterious diagnosis things and they found out that the spindle/stub was pushing outwards on the hub unit causing all of them to fail. They replaced the half-shaft and the whole steering knuckle and everything is fine now.
I'm sure the passenger side will be going out soon and I'm just going to replace the half-shaft right along with the hub unit and I'm going to buy a new 32 mm axle nut and a torque wrench that goes past 150 ft. lbs. And I'm going to get one of those TEMKEN bearings that are suppose to be so good and just see if it outlast the premium SKF unit. I think the amount of salt that gets spread on the roads in Akron, OH each year had a lot to do with this because it had really taken it's toll on that steering knuckle.

 

Thats odd that the shaft would be pushing on the bearing

 

i highly doubt the shaft was your problem. i really do not now how it could be pushing out on the bearing unless there is a problem in the front diff causing the shaft to come out

 

Yeah, It's very odd that the shaft was pushing on the bearing but that's just my luck.

I had to end up using the steering knuckle from the salvage yard because the one that was on the truck got reamed out pretty bad.

 

wow I've never seen that happen.

 

You guys keep saying that Rangers made before 2001 used PVH, but my 2000 Ranger 4x4 3.0 Flex doesn't have PVH on it.