So at the end of the month I will be throwing on 33s and new rims. I have a 4 banger with 3.73s. I really would rather not spend the money for regearing if I don't have too. BUT, if I do regear what would be the best gearing? And if I don't, will this really affect my tranny, mpg, and power?

 

You're auto right? For this sake of this response, I'm going to assume you are...

You CAN run 3.73s for a little while if you need to save some money for regearing, but don't do it for an extended period of time (few thousand miles). I messed my transmission up running too long with 3.73s, 33s, and a 3.0. I knew it probably wasn't a good idea, but I was young and figured I could get away with it for awhile; I just tried it for too long.

4.30s are really the most optimal for 33s, but I'm also assuming you have a 7.5" rear end, and I don't believe they make 4.30s for that size. I know they make them for 8.8" rears.

With that said, go with either 4.10s or 4.56s. 4.10s will give you better gas mileage, 4.56s will give you more get-up. Also, if you ever plan to go up to 35s, you'll need at least 4.56s, so you might as well step up to that now and pay the price once.

 

Ok I didn't know there was that much to it. I've read in other threads about people arguing over 4.10s and 4.56 but I'll probably go with 4.56. That just seems like the most logical way to go. I have a manual so does that really make a difference? And yes I have a 7.5

 

Having a manual will help reduce the wear and tear on your transmission since you have control of the shift points, but your truck is still going to struggle to get the kind of acceleration you're used to. You'll see a huge difference going from 3.73s to 4.56s.

 

Ok well my 4 banger doesn't have any power so maybe it won't be too bad. Here's another question for ya, if I do regear, how difficult is it to do yourself? And about how much would 4.56s be ?

 

If you have the right tools, you could do it yourself. I paid $588 locally for a regearing and diff install in just labor. Gears were like $250 and the new differential was $500. *I only got the new differential because it is limited slip. Factory was open*

 

Yep mine is open as well. If all it takes is the right tools then I should be set. My friend is a mechanic and so is his dad and they usually help me with stuff. How did you put a l/s in your diff? Was it a Detroit?

 

Swapping out gears in the rear end isn't one of those "let's try it and see how it goes" kind of jobs. You do something wrong and you're going to have a lot more problems. If your buddy and his dad have done it before, then go for it. You'll learn a lot of cool stuff. If they haven't, I'd take it to a professional.

As far as price goes, what Jacob said is about how much I paid for mine. At a minimum, you'll need the ring and pinion set, master install kit, and gear oil. If it doesn't come with a gasket for your diff cover, get one of those too.

 

Eaton true trac. It bolts in. I just had to get new bearings pressed on. If I were you and used my truck as a daily driver, I'd keep away from an auto locker (every time you clutch and shift, it will lock and unlock) I heard stories of jeep guys getting ripped into the other lane while shifting with a Detroit locker. My true Trac has yet to disappoint me. And I've made it through some nasty stuff.

 

My friend did his to an older bronco I believe and I know his dad has done a ton over the years. But I'm going to check pricing and stuff before I do it. Would swapping in a 8.8 with 4.56s be easier?

 

Is the true track an manual switch or does it function on its own like the Detroit

 

Finding a stock 8.8 with 4.56s in it is rare. Most of them have 4.10s. IIRC, the axle code for the 8.8/4.56 combo is R8.

 

The true trac is a limited slip. Not a locker, but it is worm gear driven rather than clutch packs. Which means it doesn't wear out after time like a ford track loc.

 

How good is it off-road?

 

Very well. Only issue might be under a lot of articulation climbing rocks, but applying the e brake can encourage the other side to engage. As long as it's dirt or mud, IMO, it's the best choice. Easier on tires than a locker too.

 

Oh ok. I'll let you guys know how this workouts

 

What about 4.88s? Sounds like a lot of 4.0s use those for 35s but I know there different axles

 

4.56 is the minimum for 35s IMO aND only with a 4.0. It just gets you better highway mpg. There'll be less "get up and go" with 4.56. But since the 2.3 and 3.0 are weaker engines, I'd definately go 4.88 for 35s. I did and I'm happy with my power and highway mpg.

 

What about a 4.88s for 34s?

 

A 35x12.50 is really only like 34.5x10.5 when you figure actual height and actual tread pattern. There is some wiggle room for you. If you want better mpg, go 4.56 with it. If you want a little better torque off road while sacrificing some highway mpg.

 

You think running that big of a tire could cause problems down the road even with 4.88s?

 

All depends on how you drive. Bigger tires wear out suspension components quicker. You're already one ahead of me by being a 5 speed. The autos with the 3.0s and 2.3s suck.

 

Yeah I love my manual but wow I hate it some times especially in traffic

 

That's my biggest concern with doing a 5 speed swap. But I will be thankful for it every time I go to back up an incline.

 

Personally, I think an auto would be really nice especially where I live. But I get insane mpg right now and I can shift whenever I want or pick what gear I want when I'm wheelin