Well it's time for new brake pads. I've been driving 5 years now I guess, and never needed new pads but my ranger is the vehicle I've had the longest and now put the most miles on...
so obviously I don't know much about buying brake pads. I've had mine off before so I can sure replace them. Not sure what to look for, I guess ceramic, but what brands/types do you all run? expensive any better than cheap?

as for the rotors, should I have them turned/resurfaced/replaced? I could certainly replace those myself too. And as I neglected the squeaking, and waited for the grinding... I may need new rotors... I know I don't need to worry about drilled/slotted rotors on a stock *** ranger, but they do look nicer. ignoring that, what do I need to look for in a rotor? just cheap?

 

I would go to your local auto parts store and ask them about the Duralast CMAX break pads. They have a lifetime warranty so when you need a new set you just bring the old ones in and they boom... new pads.

As far as rotors I went with Duralast also. They have a two year warranty and are pretty decent for the price.

All in all for the front you will be looking at about $100-$110 for the first time but after that its free.

 

I've always used Carquest ceramic pads... never had a problem with them.

 

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par.../N-jnqbiZ8ko29

the top two here say "disc hardware included" what hardware would it include? I don't really need that extra stuff, would I? also theres a $20 MIR right now too... not bad.

checking out the duralast rotors as well, also have my eye on these at $20 cheaper...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BEN-145341/

 

I myself did the Centric posi quiet pads and premium rotors. You can check out local stores for premium pads and rotors, or check Rockauto.com (Good deals sometimes) Summitracing.com and also a new guy to the biz called "The Parts Monster" based out of New York, sells on ebay and cuts REAL good deals. No one really turns rotors any more because the rotors are cheaper now to buy than they were back in the day.

Some good brands I recommend, (you do pay a little more but get good quality parts)
Centric
Raybestos
Wagner
Motorcraft

These are what I recommend, not necessarily saying "You HAVE to get these", just my own input from experience. I never really wanted to try the slotted/drilled rotors, but I am sure some guys here have and may speak well about them.

 

KOI/federated auto parts stores are doing a promo right now on powerstop drilled and slotted rotors. buy the rotors get free pads. my buddy just did this on his 07 , drilled and slotted with pads for 133 out the door . my brother has powerstop on his mustang gt. he loves them . i will be getting some here soon mine suck now.

 

I'm pretty sure the extra hardware is the metal clips that attach to the calipers and break pads. You will want to replace those.

 

I got just about 6 years out if the oem pads and rotors, just did a front end brake job on mine with new rotors and pads and and new wheel cylinder cause I rounded down one of the bleeder valves. If its been five years that you haven't looked at the brakes , be careful when you go to bleed them. It was almost $170.00 for me with all the new parts.

 

I will be doing this myself soon also. I will be going with good rotors and ceramic pads as I did this on my wife's car and they make less dust and are quiet. Don't forget to lube the sliders!

 

bleed the brakes? I need to do that? an I havent had the truck all those five years. just the last 27k miles of its 52k mile life.

whats this about lubing sliders?

bought these pads and rotors...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BEN-145341/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BEN-D833/

 

You won't need to bleed the brakes.
you won't need to lube the slide either. (thats what she said?)

Just spring for the basic pads at Autozone or wherever you go.
Get NEW rotors, its like 2 dollars less if you turn them.
Get a Hardware kit if its been 5 years Its like 15 bucks extra and will save you time.

Do one side at a time, that way if you mess up one side, you can go back and look at one that works.

 

thanks, I bought new pads, rotors, and hardware.

and yeah, i'll be doing it one side at a time, I have only the jack that came with my truck.

 

Harbor freight has a bottle jack for 40 bucks thats rated a bit better than your jack that came with the truck.

 

here are my buddies drilled and slotted on his 07. i drove it today and they are great, so much better than stock

 

Yes, there is a bit to think about if you've gone 5 plus years with the brakes. At 17,000 miles I felt the pedal start to pulse and cheepoe'd out and just cut the front rotors and reverse swapped the pads. (put the right side on the left and the left on the right but but the meatier pad on the piston side) I did repack the bearing and wire brushed and sand papered the rear shoes. I got another 23 thousand miles out of them. It makes me wonder why someone would toss on low quality pads and rotors!!! My neighbor had a brake job done at Sears about 18 months ago, he noticed a load moan when he touched the brake and and I heard the loud screech as he back out of his driveway and he was leaving for Canada the week before Christmas weekend. He said he only went about 12,000 miles since the brake job. I wasn't able to get the wheels off without the BFL (big f-n lumber) and had about a half a can of PB Blaster all over everything. The pads were down to the rivets, YES rivets!! I haven't seen those types of pads since my 73 Nova.... I did the fronts but only cleaned the back. They were gone two weeks so I got the the back about a month later..... I've been able to get most parts through my local parts store, if he doesn't have it he can get it the next day. I get worried when a store want to talk about a guarantee before you get the receipt!!!!

Hope you got it all back together, and yes...grease the slide pins... LOL

 

Alright... got my pads and rotors in today...

Now, since you guys missed it I havent had my truck all five years. I just meant in the 5 years I've been driving (since I'm 21) I havent had a car needing brakes replaced.

But anyway. pads actually came in a pack of 4 so I'm good for next time on them.
and the bottle jack that came with my truck blows. I can't even lift my truck. I guess I'll try and use some stuff at work tomorrow and get it done. I don't want to spend any money on a new jack or jack stands.

 

Yea, Find a friend with a regular automobile jack. or whatever they're called. I could have told you the Pads come 4 in a package.
Make sure you get some brake and parts clean and wash the rotors, you need to get the oil off that they put on at the factory. Just spray it down and wipe off with a rag. you might also want to get some disc brake quiet stuff for the pads too, some are made not to squeak, but i put some on anyways.

 

quick help! I'm progressing but...

see pic below. The new pads have a metal plate thing clipped on the outside of the pad. Does that need to stay on? I couldnt get the bolts started with the plates on but once I took them off the bolts started real easy. not sure why but with them it didnt wan't to line up.

The bottom is just the metal clip thing, middle is pad with it off and top is pad with it on. please note that tab thing sticking up is on two of the pads not sure why but it doesnt interfere with anything.



oh and more interesting pics to come...

 

I think its a spacer if the pads don't fit.
I don't know, i've never seen it before to be honest.
I think you'll be fine with it off.

 

only thing I can think of is kind of a protection to stiffen the ceramic. I'd say the caliper would distribute the load enough though, hm? i mean its on a flat surface anyway.

 

Yea, it'll be ok man.

 

Time for the fun and pics... I learned that in fact there are pads on both sides of the rotor.... did not know that. Turns out only 1 of four pads was totally bad but oh well new stuff all around.

actually I did NOT put the new pads on the passenger side. I got new rotors on both sides though. On the drivers side I was man enough to compress the caliper to fit over the new pads by hand. Passenger side proved to be a bit tougher, so I just threw the old pads on until this weekend. New rotors look good, new pads and rotors work awesome.

Now... the OLD pad and rotor that was down to nothing.... different story.

The old pad... shot to hell


Compared to the old ok pad:


And then with the new pad too:


This is the rotor that came off, front (ok) and back (shredded!)




Rotor removed:


New rotor:


New pad thickness compared to old pad:


New pads on driver side:

 

Do work!

I had a weird thing happened with my brakes a couple of years ago.
The passenger side caliper wouldnt let off when I released the brakes. I didnt notice that this was happening until my brakes started grabbing REALLY bad.

The worn down pad ate one side of my rotor to an angle.

The end.

 

Interesting. I've really learned a lot doing this. I picked up a c clamp today that I can get over the caliper to compress it so I can get my new pads on the other side. I didn't get a pic of the whole assembly with the new rotor so I'll get that as well.

here's a pic of the rotor and pads installed, and the truck in 'work on' mode

 

Not bad man.
There wasn't anything left of that one pad! lol.
Its good that your doing this on your own, saves you a ton of money too.