i was just driving down the road then boom! then all i heard was grinding coming from the rear. i dont even know where to start besides taking the cover off. carnage pics, its not as bad as chucks was but its close.
pull the carrier (mark your shims left and right and unbolt the four bolts that hold the carrier to the case). You don't have to take a backlash reading because you won't get anything close to accurate because it looks like your ABS ring took beating. It also looks like you may have to replace your ring and pinion if the ring or pinion gear suffered significant damage. Figure out what you can salvage (hopefully your ring and pinion) and then plan on buying a new carrier (open, trac-loc, l/s (detroit or another torsen, or a full locker). Once you get it apart, post some more photos or mail me, or other folks on the board that could walk you through replacing your carrier. If you need new gears and you haven't done gearing before, I would recommend having it towed to a shop and have them do it. If you don't own a pinion depth gauge, dial indicator, stand, micrometer and both inch and foot lb. torque wrenches, that can handle over 300 ft lbs., I say shop it. Hope this is helpful.
Jason the easiest option for you would be to go to the junkyard and see if they have an explorer axle with the right gear ratio.....
If you don't wanna do that though see if you can get an open carrier on ebay and throw an aussie in there, assuming the gearset isnt ruined. I'd give you my old carrier that the e-locker replaced but its only 28-spline.
Setting up new gears and what not is not an easy task though, I really wouldn't recommend doing it yourself unless you really know what you're doing. Replacing the entire axle with an explorer one would be the easiest and cheapest option IMO. If you can find one with the right gear ratio.
2003 Ranger Regular cab 5-Speed 4x4
D30 SAS | KING Coilovers | Deaver f31s | 4.88s | Detroit TrueTrac | Eaton E-Locker | 35" MTZs | 1354m | RE Long Arms | Currie AntiRock
If you don't own a pinion depth gauge, dial indicator, stand, micrometer and both inch and foot lb. torque wrenches, that can handle over 300 ft lbs., I say shop it. Hope this is helpful.
you dont really need a pinion depth gauge on an axle thats still got gears in it, if he puts the same shims back in, the gear mesh with the paint will tell him if its in a good enough spot.
dont NEED an inch pound torque wrench.. really don't need any torque wrenches actually I dont think a single one touched my front axle. it helps knowing an impact though, too much or too little will fawk you big time.
It helps yes, completely and utterly necessary? no. but you can rent one from autozone. 1/2" atleast
If you were in austin i have most of the tools, and know people who know what their doing more so than me. The local 4x4 shop i used to take my junk to charges $500 to setup a R&P.
R.I.P. Dirty Debby. I miss that truck
New truck sports a chrome "C" on the fenders.
"Matt's the devil on your right shoulder, and you SHOULD listen to him... And take pictures of the carnage!!!" -stRanger
If he has damaged his ring and pinion, he will have to set up new gears. I am going by what I have used in the past and what I have been exposed to.(BTW, a big *** breaker bar helped plenty w/ the pinion nut, because I don't have access to air). Impacts are great, if you have access to them. BTW, the you'd need a one inch torque wrench and sockets or adapters if you arent' working with air. I still say shop it if you don't have anyone who experienced in setting up gears.
Last edited by Kikaida 01; 07-22-2009 at 09:48 PM.
Are you possibly interested in this here 38,000 mile used '05 Torsen 31spline Fx4LII differential I have just sitting in my shop being unused? It's an 05 model and not a '02 that got the recalls. PM me if interested...we'll talk.
NO NO NO NO NO!!!! No more Torsen. Dude, do what I did, order you a nice 31 spline trac loc, $252 from Summit brand new, and replace your R&P. You'll never go wrong with that setup. The Torsen is a joke, screw helical carriers, go with a tried and true clutch L/S