Hey guys I am wanting to change over to a manual transfer case like many of you have but I have not been able to find any threads after searching the projects section and the how-to section. Just how hard is it to change my truck to a manual T-fer case? And I am assuming the 4wd lights will still work on the dash still? Any info is greatly appreciated!!!

 

https://www.ranger-forums.com/f37/of...thread-110458/


This one is my T-case swap thread and I think a lot of questions are answered in it.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/f37/ma...e-swap-103317/

 

https://www.ranger-forums.com/f82/tr...mation-104139/

 

Thanks guys. That is a lot of information to take in at once lol. I don't even know where to start! :(

 

Depends on what case you plan on running. Expo or find a uber rare ranger one. Any info to swap the expo case can be found in my thread. Though it's Level II stuff, it'll all be the same but the interior plastics and what not. Mike used a factory ranger case with the tulip style front output shaft. It's hard to find and to be honest, I'd rather build an expo case, since they're more readily available if something happens; vs. that rare ranger case.

 

Trevor is probably right on the Explorer case being the easier setup to find and maintain over a period of time.

LOL, its funny to think the value we put on certain items isn't it? I'm sure a complete Level II setup top to bottom could be had for $750 (I know because thats what I was going to sell mine for) and many consider that too much. Even I probably wouldn't of paid that much for one because I believe it could be done for less. Although when you compare paying $400 for a programmer or $1000+ on wheels and tires its not really a bad deal. Considering that T-case is more useful than a programmer and will out last those tires.

Unless you're super good at finding parts at bargin prices, I honestly feel that the price difference between the Ranger Level II case and Expo case would only be a few hundred. Then you eliminate the difference in driveshaft issues. In my area the Level II cases go for $400-500 and the Expo's for $200-250. If you're lucky like me you can get all the Level II hardware and interior stuff thrown in for free, it becomes very close to being equal.

If you're a manual transmission truck check with Bumpnstereo as I gave him a lead on possible Level II tail shaft housing for very little $$$. I'm out of the manual T-case business now and my flow through console won't allow it on the F150, but I do have one part left. I have a Level II Manual T-case shifter with mint condition **** and a boot for $50 + shipping.

Edit: www.car-parts.com is your friend.

 

jump on that jwad

 

Jwad I don't know what I was thinking when I mentioned the Level II tail shaft housing. You won't need it as you have a pre 01 truck. So bolting up the linkage won't be an issue with your current tranny.

 

I WANT THAT ARM, ****, AND BOOT!!! Lol. You're not too far from me either, would you want to meet up somewhere close you you? I'd make the drive to get it. You are about 3 hours from me.

And let me get this right on the X-fer case. I can use any one out of an explorer? Are there specific years I need one from? And I thought that explorers had auto ones like the ranger? Cause the older explorers I have seen they have a button for the 4wd on the dash where the first vent is on the early 90's explorer's and rangers so what is the difference between those and the one in my truck now? Also what all do I need to hook this thing up besides the T-case itself and the shifter for the floor? Do I need that adapter piece like in the pic below or is that what you said I don't need since I have a pre 01?

 

hey jwad...this mean you might have a tcase and/or shift motor available?? I'm worried I mucked mine up.

 

Jason, I believe you can grab a 1354m from an Explorer up until 95... My case is a '94 and works great.

They're hard to find, because they aren't as common as the electric cases, but they're out there... And certainly more available than the 1354m ranger t-case with the tulip style front output.

 

Yeah hopefully by spring lol. I am gathering parts right now. BTW, when the hell you gonna make a meet? Haha.

 

Ok thanks man!!! Gonna start my search for it. Can I use my rangers front driveshaft etc? What besides the manual case do I need to grab once I find one?

 

Ok found a couple 1991 explorer manual shift's on car-part.com for $150!!! That sounds like a good price already but they have 3 of them so I am gonna try to make him an offer on one of them. I am STOKED!

Mike, I'm coming to get that shifter after I stop in Topeka and get my new T-fer case!!! Lol

 

No you shouldn't need that adapter piece. The easiest thing to do is to just slide under there and see if you have the bolt bosses. I might be able to meet up sometime. Thats a long way to drive for a shifter but if you want to come get it feel free. I'm trying to find some good 34's for my f150 and if I find something in the KC area I'd do it for sure.

You want to find a T-case from a 4.0 explorer. They're kind of tough to find too as I've never personally seen an explorer with a manual T-case as most of them were push button.

 

Well I found a couple manual shifts from a 4.0 in topeka so I am thinking some day this week I will go pick one of those up and then would you be willing to meet me in Emporia for some lunch and I'll pickup those parts from ya? I'll PM you my number so you will have it. Let me know what days you are free and lets try to plan to meet up soon. I have a lot of parts to gather up so the sooner the better before I run outta money haha!

 

Jwad00- Please do your research and make sure you get a 1354m case and linkage for a 1354m. The 1350m case and linkage look very similar and can be mistaken. To identify a 1354m case, it will say 1354-(and some other numbers) on the front face of the case that bolts to your transmission tail housing. Also, dont forget to purchase a new gasket from Ford for the tail housing.

Differences:

Case: 1354m comes with 2 types of front outputs. A tulip(FX4/FX4II)(P#1.1) and a regular yoke(Ranger and Explorers)(P#1.2). The 1350m has a slip yoke front output(Bronco II)(P#1.3).

P#1.1 -


P#1.2 -


P#1.3 -


If your vehicle is 98+ you will already have the tulip style drive shaft so you will need to do one of the following.

1 - Acquire a 1354m from an 02-03 FX4/FX4II.
2 - Convert your yoke style 1354m to a tulip. https://www.ranger-forums.com/f59/ho...output-113930/ (Reverse the process)
3 - Acquire a 1354m that has the yoke style ft. output and a double cardan ft. drive shaft from a 95-96 Explorer(P#2.1)

P#2.1


*NOTE* If your truck is older than a 98, then you should still switch to the double cardan shaft.

Linkage: Though the linkages from a 1350m and 1354m look very alike, when next to each other, they have a major difference. 1354m has a bend in the part of the linkage that shafts the t-case. (P#3.1)

P#3.1

1350m(left) 1354m(right)

*NOTE* Be sure when you are getting the linkage assembly that the hardware for the linkage that bolts to the threaded bungs are saved. The bigger one of the two is no longer made by Ford so dont lose it. (P#4.1) - hardware is located in the middle of the picture.

P#4.1


This should be most of what you need to know....

 

One other thing you will need to do is swap the drive shaft flange from your stock case to the 1354m so you can bolt up your drive shaft. Impact gun will work the best....

 

That was good info but I will not be using the Ranger's T-fer case. I am looking at one from a 1991 Explorer. Will that make a difference?

 

Thats good info for you.
Man that P#1.1 setup sure looks good. :)

Its probably a good thing I took that pic, as its probably the most complete Level II setup pictured all together. Now Shane will try to upstage me by throwing in the tail housing and speed sensor, but with out a complete T-case I guess I'd probably still win. :P

That was wrong I shouldn't even of joked about that.... sorry Shane.

 

Wirelessly posted (Droid X)

You're on the right track... Remember like the guy above said, you're gonna need to buzz off the smaller diameter output flange of the expo and buzz on the larger diameter flange of the ranger. Its difficult by hand but can be done if in park or 1st and 4lo on the case once it's mounted. Remember too, you can't run the ranger front shaft anymore. You'll need one from a 95-96 explorer 4.0L with the double cardan joint up at the t-case side if the shaft, that's the right length one. The ranger double cardan shaft would work, but would need go be shortened and that'll just cost more $$$.

 

Ahh crap I am getting confused :( Too much info to process

 

Wirelessly posted (Droid X)

Here, if you run an expo case, follow my tread to a T. You'll be dialed.

 

make sure you get a 1994 case or newer..they have 6 planetary gears instead of the 1993 or earlier 4 planetary gear setup. meaning a stronger 4lo. unless it doesnt matter then nvm lol.

 

i used a 1994 ranger case for this same reason. i dont really know how much stronger/reliable the 6 planetary gear case is compared to the 4, but in a logical sense, 6 is better than 4. take your time and acquire the right parts and dont rush into it...

for protection of the other member on here, i rushed into it without doing my research and jumped on the first thing i could find. turns out it was a 1350m. spent $300 for nothing because i thought said member knew more than i since he had done this once before.

follow the info on this thread, take your time looking around, have everything you need, assemble, and take a lot of pictures. in that order