ok im not gonna lie. this is pretty embarrassing and sad. ok so my clutch was working fine. it wasnt the smoothest but it worked and i had full pedal. then one day i noticed that it had half pedal and though it was weird. but it went away in like 10 mins of driving. so i called my dad wile i was at school and he said to check the clutch fluid and fill it. later that day i does it again. so i get home and pull the cap and go "its empty" so i fill it up. then we go to the beach and drive around the next day. and i still have only half pedal. then towards the time were leaving it gets worse and i can hardly shift. so we get home barley. and we go to bleed it. my dad is up top and i was going underneath when he says "come up here" he pulls the cap and THE DUST CAP IS FULL OF BRAKE FLUID AND HE PULLS THE DUST CAP FULL OF FLUID OUT AND THE RESIVOUR IS COMPLETELY EMPTY. i freakin filled the dust cap like a retard. so we put more in (after i take a bunch of ****) and i unscrew the nipple about 1/2 a turn and hook the vacuum pump up to it and suck about 4 resivours through it and its still soft. so he pumps it 3 times and then holds and i open valve and then close and we did this like 3 times. do u think i should try gravity bleeding it again or do u think im gona need a new master of slave. the guy i bought it from said he put a clutch in it not to long ago. but if i have to pull it ill probably replace it any ways. so buy having no fluid in it did that ruin it. i know that before when i went to take off i HAD to give it gas and it didnt start to pull forward at all and now it does and it works but really hard to shift expecialy when not moving and like i said i only have half a pedal.

 

ok you are in luck my friend! I had the same thing happen to me with my slave. if I were you i'd replace the clutch kit, slave cylinder, slave master cylinder and resurface the flywheel. if you do this you shouln't have a problem for another 30k miles. i've dealt with a few of these problems seeing as to how i own 2 rangers and work for ford as a tech

 

^ what he said. i just got done having this problem, our slave cylinder setup is of (crappy) french design. my slave cylinder had a bypassing issue so it needed to be replaced, but... since you have to take the tranny off to get to the slave, you're gonna be better off replacing the clutch and resurfacing the flywheel while your in there. its a pain in the ***, and there isn't really much you can do about it other than fix it and wait for it to happen again.

next time i'd try removing the dust cap before filling the res though.lol

 

ya...lol

 

ok so bringing back an old thread...so i got my clutch working. at first it was great but after a month or so i lost some pedal again. pulled the cap and it was empty. poured some fluid in and it bubbles for a little bit and then stopped and filled up. the clutch came back immediately. and then i about a month but a little less it did it again. same procedure...filled it up again. then the got to the point were i had to fill it up about every week or so...i would lose half my pedal all of a sodden and i would fill it up i i would get it right back. now in the past few days its gotten so i have to do it every day. there is moisture all around the inspection hold on the bottom of the bell housing. so is it time to replace the clutch? and like i said the guy before me said he replaced it not long ago...but it has never been grabby at all. i sure the 32's and 3.73's have something to do with it but it does not grab at all. u have to give it gas when u start. were as like in my dads jeep with 31's and 3.73 (4.0 tho) i can let out hte clutch and it will chug along forwards..mine will stall. so idk..also how muck difference is there between the spec stage 1 and stage 2 cause the stage 2 is $100 bucks more....is it worth it? also are those cheap ($150) ones on ebay just ****? and does the $430 dollar spec stage 2 come with slave? and do i need to replace my master also? thanks for the help.

 

ANY ONE...WHY IS IT LEAKING....IS IT NOT THE CLUTCH...IS IT THE MASTER CYLINDER? THANKS.

 

If you ran the master dry then you probably have air in it. Even a vacuum pump wont get rid of it because of its position. You have to bench bleed the master then bleed the rest of the system normally.

 

so y is it leaking....is all i need to do is bleed it properly and ill be fine? also why does my clutch not grab...the only time it grabbed was right after bleeding it...i thought it wasnt grabbing cause it was soaked in brake fluid but it worked that one time and its not like it all of a sudden dyed out for a min....im confused

 

Sorry I didn't see where you said it was still leaking. More than likely the slave is out. Mine has gone out 3 times in 4 years. Change the slave and master if its old. Usually when the clutch disc gets oil on it then its trashed.

 

so does the $400 spec stage 2 kit come with slave ect? also what about the $150 dollar ebay kits..like this

95 96 97 98 Ford Ranger Sachs Clutch Kit 2.3 2.5 3.0:eBay Motors (item 400061738402 end time Aug-13-09 09:39:35 PDT)

 

As far as I know it doesn't come with the slave. I used to buy Centerforce and all it came with was the disc, pressure plate and alignment tool. This time around I bought a stock replacement clutch hoping that it might solve my slave cylinder issues.

I bought from Clutch City Online. They have great prices and they include everything you need. My clutch was installed in February and so far I haven't had any problems with it.

 

It looks like the LuK clutch kit is basically stock. I have been looking at a Sachs clutch kit that is a slight upgrade to stock. It does not come with a slave and the cheapest I can find it is $275.

I like the idea that the LuK kit comes with a slave and I like the price but I would like something a little more heavy duty. In the past I used a Brute Force clutch kit by Borg Warner for my 89 Ranger but they don't make them for the newer Rangers.