Good luck, they don't bolt up and won't work with your current abs and breaking system.

You would have to install the entire system abs controller lines computers everything.

 

Started converting my drums to disc brakes this weekend on my 2002 BTF Ranger.

Onto some pics:






I got the following parts:
Currie Brake Hose Kit - CE-6013C
Summit Rear Brake Bracket Kit - M-2300-M

Pads, Calipers, and Caliper Brackets I got from vatozone. Of course they gave me the wrong ones so I ordered the correct caliper brackets from Amazon and found the correct pads. Calipers seem like they will work.

While waiting for my parts (hopefully I get them today in the mail) I decided to get rid of the rust on the frame. Going to paint it with rubber undercoating and the cantilever is starting to rust a little bit, so bought some caliper paint for those.



When I got the BTF kit installed by Brandon I kept my Camburg spindles, but as of last week I ordered the upgraded BTF spindle and hub. I will have my Camburg spindles up for sale here shortly if anyone is interested.

More to come...

 

Also ordered this Zinc puck. Saw something on one of the home improvement channels stating the rust is attracted to zinc... Supposedly it last 10 years and the zinc puck will rust before the frame does. Going to mount in under the bed and see what happens.

CMP Skimmer Basket Zinc Puck at Sunplay.com | Pool Zinc Anode

 

ok....
I have a 2005 ford ranger xlt 2.3l so I know the swap is possible. I also have the ford gt rear brake kit so Im gonna be doing some cutting as well as the Currie Enterprises Racing part. What I wanted to know is I do have the correct parts right??

 

Based on what you just said.. yes and no.

Are you re-using your stock hard lines? You'll need to cut them shorter or bend them out of the way.. This is assuming you can remove them from the backing plate. Mine were on there so good I had to cut them off and re-run hard lines from the top of the axle. If you can re-use them, you either need to bend them back or cut them and re-flare them. The currie kit will work, but there other things to consider.

 

I planned on using the stock hard lines because the how to said you could. I was gonna bend them outta the way. What other things did I need to consider?

 

Are you cutting your backing plates off, or are you going to drain the differential, pull the c-clips and pull the axles.. if so.. have you ever changed the axle seals? Now would be a good time to do it. If you don't have limited slip.. make sure you get differential fluid that does NOT have an additive for L/S. Do you fully understand how to connect the parking brake? I did a lot of research, on here and on other forums making sure I knew exactly what I was doing. Still took me 2 1/2 days. I was taking my time, but stuff still comes up.

 

What and where are the backing plates? What would be easier to do? Whats the easiest way to connect the parking brake? Any other parts you recommend? ?

 

You need to do a lot more research before buying anything if you don't know what backing plates are.

 

The backing plates are what is bolted to your axle flange. It's what holds the whole drum brakes on there. In order to get it off the axle, you need to either A) Cut them off with a cutting tool or grinder or whatever or torch them off or B)Drain the Diff, pull the c-clips, pull the axles, and remove them. You can't just pull them off because the axle, mainly the part with the lug nut bolts, the circle part, is in the way of pulling that plate off.

The parking brake.. you need a few sets of vice grips.. get some slack in your line.. and then you need to pull the cable a bit to get it on the hook on the caliper.. thing is.. you need a spacer (I used 1/2" electrical conduit, $2 for 8ft at Home Depot), put it on there, and measured back to the clip on the parking brake line that was originally holding it inside the backing plate.. and made my cut.. slid it on, then attached the line on each side. If you make one side too tight (the spacer too long), then the other side will be difficult or impossible to get any slack to attach it.

You'll need 3 quarts of differential fluid (you'll use 2.5-2.75 quarts). Make sure you have a couple bottles of brake fluid, you'll need to flush quite a bit of air out of the lines. Have a friend to help you bleed them, or get a vacuum pump to help. You'll need a good selection of wrenches and sockets, and plyers. Have a few beers and enjoy the ride, haha.


Oh yea, torque your lug nuts or your wheel will fall off about a week later.. ask me how I know.

 

Ok well i have a grinder so Id say that be easier for me. And wow thanks for the info. I like how you completely answered what I asked instead of telling me I should be smarter lol!! You have pictures of your set up?? What kind of beer you think I should get???? Naaaaaaaaaaaa just keeeeding lol!!

 

If I have any questions during the build I will definitely message you!! THx again bud!!

 

I know, I know...your right. I'm just trying to gather as much info as to what Ill need and whats what for my mechanic. Im sure when he sees the forum, and looks at the help and advice you all suggest, he'll understand...thx

 

Are both caliper brackets gonna be cut the same?

 

mirror image of each other. Caliper holes toward the rear of the truck.

 

Yup.. caliper holes to the rear.. cut down towards the front on both. If you look at the pictures it makes sense.

 

Ok gotcha so as in the picture, both will be cut like that but placed on opposite sides, meaning right on left and vice versa

 

Yes.

 

I may be interested in them. Do you have any other Camburg parts you're getting rid of, or just the spindles?

 

I had the uppers that went with the spindles but sold those awhile ago because I upgraded. But I kept my spindles. Now that I'm getting upgraded spindles I'll be selling these, but all you need to do is call camburg and get the upper arms for these spindles. They are uniball.

 

I am having some issues finishing up this project, everything is ready to go but I'm having trouble figuring out what to do with the parking brake. It has way too much slack in it. The picture on the main page no longer works regarding to the parking brake so any help would be appreciated so I can get these bled and get it finished up and the bed back on.

Here's some pics:

 

I believe you use a piece of pipe as a spacer between the backing piece and the rest of the line for the parking brake

 

The clip on the parking brake that held it onto the backing plate of the drum.. between that and where you attach the end of the parking brake line.. you need a 1/2" pipe spacer.. about 2" long on each side.. measurement isn't exact, you need to measure, but that's pretty close.

 

Thank you guys!

 

Get me a price when you get ready to sell and we'll go from there.