Is there another brake line setup I can use instead of the ones provided by carrie?? Its been 3 weekend already and the parts haven't shipped. I contacted them and they said as soon as they get them they will ship them. If so where?? Any local auto stores??

 

This is what I used:


And I ran new hard lines from the distribution block on top of the axle using these:


Keep in mind its a little longer than necessary on both sides, especially the passenger, but you can just move around the flexible stainless steel lines so it's ok.

 

If anyone needs caliper mounting bolts, I have some left over from when I did this. Brand new grade 10.9 bolts. The ones that mount the caliper to the bracket. I've got six, so thats four to use and two extra.

 

i used the Raybestos BH36847 lines from a 80's monte carlo on mine for two reasons. One im poor and two i would like to be able to get replacement parts at autozone if needed.

The 10mm banjo end and 3/8"-24 female end.

 

Great thread. I currently have the 28 spline axle, but plan on upgrading to an Explorer axle ('95 - 01'). I have several reasons for doing this but the main reason is strength. I have a truck camper and plan on a lift with quite a bit larger tires (35" or 37"). So I will need all the braking force possible for safe driving.

In the initial write up, close to the end, there was a link for a currie bracket for the 31 spline axles. Will this work with all the other parts in the write up for an Explorer axle? And Currie says the bracket is for a 'late model Torino big bearing housing'. What does this mean exactly?

I'm just trying to make sure the bracket will work.

 

95-01 Explorer axles already have disc brakes.

 

Yes, I'm fully aware of that. That's why I'm swapping an Explorer axle into my truck. My truck currently has 10" drums and the Explorer has 10" disks. I'd like to install LARGER disk brakes though for more stopping power. I'm also trying to figure out how to put larger disks on the tront of my truck as well.

I live in a very mountainous region and want the extra security of stopping power and heat dissipation to relieve the overheating and 'brake fade' with larger tires and camper weight.

 

Can we get a better picture of the e brake setup . Close up so we can actually see the line getting to caliper and hooked up. Thanks

 

the 09 - 10 mazda b4000 pickups came with the factory front 12 inch brakes i think

i had to take a tape measure to be sure , napa lists 2 different sizes of front rotors

find a wrecked b4000 of those 2 years and salvage the front knuckles and calipers

 

 

Can anyone elaborate on this? I have a '01 2wd with coil spring front end. I'd like to stick with Ranger parts as much as possible.

My 7.5 rear is clunky. I'm trying to find a Ranger 8.8 with LS to replace it and do a disc brake set up before installing it. I think I am read up on doing the Mustang disc brake set up. I'm still a bit unsure about the years of Mustang to be on the lookout for. I also plan to try and do the C clip eliminator kit. Has anyone done this with the Mustang disc brake swap?

TIA

 

coil sprung and torsion bar knuckles are two different types

torsion bar knuckles will "NOT" bolt on to coil sprung "A" arms

the 2010 mazda B4000 and 2010-2011 4.0 litre ford ranger and regular cab rangers came with the rear disc brake equipped rear axles.

 

Thanks. I knew about the different front ends and parts not swappable. It wasn't mentioned which front end the 12 inch brakes were for. Altho, I think the coil spring front went away after '01.


I knew about the rear disc Rangers. I just can't find those axles in the yards around here.

 

you can have a wrecker order you a rear axle

i had a wrecker order me 2 spare front knuckles for my transit connect

just picked them up this morning

 

Sure can, at additional cost.

 

if mi were you

i would locate a 90`s f150 9 inch rear axle with disc brakes ( mustang cobra )

far better axle and you can bolt an aftermarket emergency/parking brake assembly to the 3rd member

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Pinio...ake,44784.html
1966 Ford Bronco Buggy Rear 9 Inch Axle - Photo 70136743 - 1966 Ford Bronco Buggy - Twisted Classic

http://www.fourwheeler.com/features/.../photo-10.html

 

To wide, but I had thought about a 9 and turning it into a 509/609 and then build a matching 9-inch front axle. The cost of gears and third member for a front 9 put that idea out of reach.

 

jeepers were installing the ford 8.8 , but ultimately found out that the pinion snout was just as weak as the dana 44

cost should never be burden if you want a rear axle that will stand up to everything you throw at it

some of those jeepers learned that lesson the hard way

some of them have gone back to the ford 9 inch , because that axle is nearly bullet proof

and with the creation of the high 3 rd member , it is a better axle now

 

I agree with that. My truck is all stock with a 2.5L and auto. Even if I did eventually add 4x4 and 33-inch tires, I'm old and slow. I'd never kill an 8.8. My 7.5 has a quarter million miles on it with very little and light towing. It's never been off road just down rough dirt roads. Other than maintenance, I recently replaced the driver side axle bearing and seal.

 

wow! 1/4 million miles , that is a lot to ask of a small axle

but you are correct , even with maintenance , wheel bearings will eventually wear out and require replacement

 

It made it because we never put any weight in it. I did pull a car with it 240 miles through the mountains. First and last time. Other than that, it's pulled my 4x5 utility trailer with gravel a mulch a few times. 99% of the hauling it has done has been under 200lbs. I've nursed this truck like no other because I know the limitations. When I was a tech at a 4x4 shop, I replaced 7.5 spider gears regularly on the local utility service trucks and mail trucks. In the early 90's I had a 4x4 Ranger with a 7.5. I had a C clip let go while backing out of my driveway. When I went in to replace the C clips, the spider gears had fractures in them.

 

AH! someone who takes care of their vehicle

i have seen numerous pictures of trucks with mangled rear axles, not to mention front "A" arms ripped off by tires way too large for the arms to handle

 

Yes. I learned to take care of my vehicles. I did go up in tires sizes a couple years ago. I went from OE 225-70-15 to 235-75-15. If I'm not mistaken that's a jump from 28 inches to 31 inches. I can't remember for sure. I have no rubbing and it hasn't affected the performance or mpg. These Kenda tires seem to last longer but that may be because I'm not driving as much.

 

I made an offer on a GT set up a little while ago and my offer of $105 was accepted. Now I am going to look for an 8.8 to freshen up and install the GT kit on. I may sell the GT brackets and get the Cobra brackets so I can run the larger vented rotors. Considering I have the smallest lightest Ranger made in the last gen, I think the GT set up will work fine for what I use my truck for. FWIW, this is cheaper than just the brackets from a local JY. I can rebuild/reseal the calipers myself and the hardware kits are fairly inexpensive.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/322981411670


Thanks, Dangerranger01 for starting this thread. I may upgrade the fronts to match until I decide if I want to SAS my truck.

 

I really wanted to do this conversion. But I can't source the parts for cheap. I refuse to pay $200 for the brackets that are on ebay now. Seems like I went out and bought everything I'd be close to $500.. arg.!

Can't say I have ever had problems with the rear drum brakes in all reality though. Would like to do this but just seems out of reach...arg!

-Nigel