new detailing goodies
#26
#28
The thing here is to not use the most aggressive product first, its best to start off pretty low on the cut chart and then work up and has you see how each product reacts to the paint you can go back as a reference when doing other jobs so you dont cut into the paint too much resulting in having to pay $$$$ for a new paint job that was suppose to last 20-30 yrs...
your DA's/ PC's can only do so much the recommended # for a DA is #83 followed by #80... you can use 105 and 205 but it is recommended that you use a rotary so you get the right friction to get the product to do its job... with DA's they dont rotate they just oscillate and dont create much friction which is why its almost impossible to burn through the paint with one.... but some detailers have had luck with 105 and 205 with their DA's Im just skeptical about it and stick with what I know best... cause if I screw up then thats money that has to come out of my pocket that I dont have.
#29
your DA's/ PC's can only do so much the recommended # for a DA is #83 followed by #80... you can use 105 and 205 but it is recommended that you use a rotary so you get the right friction to get the product to do its job... with DA's they dont rotate they just oscillate and dont create much friction which is why its almost impossible to burn through the paint with one.... but some detailers have had luck with 105 and 205 with their DA's Im just skeptical about it and stick with what I know best... cause if I screw up then thats money that has to come out of my pocket that I dont have.
#30
exactly... to me when I find something good that works Ill stick with it.. until I see enough interest in something else then Ill go and try it out. Ive seen the DA work wonders with the 105 and 205 but I dont need to go that high in cut because I havent encountered paint that damaged to actually use it... and yes you correct about the oscillating, you put it in better words than I was using trying to describe it
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