Hi Guys

Knee deep into the 85 Ranger V8 swap and total restoration. As one would expect I have started on the frame first.

I ran into two problems so far.

#1 I replaced all shackle and leaf spring bushings and new clamps and cleaned and painted everything. When I got the clamps at the local spring shop they told me to torque the clamps to 100 ft lbs. I got them to 90 and bent the brackets and clamps. Yes my t wrench is accurate.

Should I be worried that they bent a tad? I will put up a pic. I was able to get the 90 the first time. The shop said to redo it in a couple days so I did. This is when this stuff happened.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...2/DSCF1362.jpg


#2 I am now working on the front suspension. I am replacing the radius arm bushings, axel pivot bushings, ball joints, well everything. I got to the pojnt of removing the radius arm and CANT remove the bolt that bolts it to the axle.
I was finally able to remove both as one (real pain) and took it over to my 12 ton press and it will not budge it. Any help would be appreciated. I want to clean, derust and paint all these and I think it will be a real pain to put it back in as one anyway.

Any help here would be a blessing. I need to press out the lower ball joint yet. I have a HF ball joint service kit it got the top one out but will not budge the bottom. I will use the 12 ton to do it when I get them seperated if I get them seperated.

 

on the plate unless your seeing some problems i would just leave it.

on the bolt ya that thing is a *****. get the thing cherry and start beating on it

 

I read that you are not supposed to heat the axle at all. Says it will take the temper out and you will have trouble.

If this is the case how else can you get this thing out?

Any other methods known to man?

Thanks

 

bigger hammer

 

Well I was told the u bolts are perfect by the spring shop. They said they bent just enough to keep it from coming loose. Good job they told me.

SO I guess they will stay.

I have not been able to get the radius bolts out yet. Tried every trick I was told and still no luck. Any other suggestions?

I hope so as I need to get these out.

Thanks

 

Big hammer and when i say big i mean really big like 15lb sledge. Sometimes they are hard to get out sometimes they arent just keep working at it.

 

If you're talking about the bolt that holds the radius arm to the axle housing and in the middle of the bottom of the coil spring, then just put a lot of WD40 and lots of heat! and a big breaker bar!!!

It IS Possible.. i replaced my stock arms with extended ones with my lift

 

Cool pic. I have been soaking it for days with PB blaster. That always seems to out work WD40.
Will keep at it then. I think I will put it in the 12 ton press, crank up the pressure and heat it and see what pops!

 

Gave up and brought it to the local shop that has the 1" impacts and the 25 ton press. They said $120 to get it out WOW I am in the wrong business.

My next hurdle is what do I need and where do I get that big bolt? I have looked for one online and have yet to find one.

Any body know where I can get one?

This is starting to cost more than buying a new truck....not really but I bet it will cost more than what the truck cost in 1985

 

Just out of curiosity, what makes you sure that your torque wrench is accurate? I have seen several go bad, or be inaccurate when new, which is the reason I ask.

I am fortunate, in that my employer has a certified calibration department, and I've been able to take my wrenches in to get checked.

 

Good question actually. I have (3) 1/2" drive TW and (2) 1/4" one in in lbs and one ft lbs. (1) 3/8" ft lbs.

I check them occasionally against each other the 1/2" drives that is. (1) of the 1/2" is brand new never used except to test. They always are a pound or two within each other so I gather they are accurate or at least enough for what I do.

I do take care of them, never use them to loosen as I know many do. I always crank them down to 20 ft lbs after using or before storing them.

I feel confident they are ok.

 

Just to follow up on the stuck bolt,
I brought it to a friends shop and they got it out with a combo of heat and 1" impact.

I will take it to them to do the other side too. Much easier and it was not bad at $50 seeing I spent days trying and cans of PB blaster and could not budge it. Only have a weak *** 1/2" drive impact so that was cheaper than buying a bigger compressor and new gun.

I have a new issue with the cab mounts. I will post it in a new thread.

 

what is the min torque on radius arm to axle bolt