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Stuff around the shop.

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Old Sep 23, 2009
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Stuff around the shop.

Figured I'd make a thread to keep updating with some pictures of **** I build around the shop. Since I never have time to work on the ranger I'll take some pictures of the stuff I actually am working on.

This is a carrier bearing mount on a fusion chassis I'm finishing up.

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Rear shock mounts from same build.

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Old Sep 23, 2009
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So that carrier bearing is holding the front driveshaft? If I'm looking at those pics correctly. Guessing Chevy axles since it's a Passenger side drop?

Or am I just way off base.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2009
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Yes carrier bearing is for the front shaft, which will be 2 peices. And yes it's a passenger drop 60 front.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2009
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whats yalls labor rate?
 
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Old Sep 23, 2009
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Originally Posted by 034x4
Yes carrier bearing is for the front shaft, which will be 2 peices. And yes it's a passenger drop 60 front.
Why a 2 piece drive shaft? Never heard of that. Does it allow for more of clearance? That'd be about all I could guess as it would allow you use another U-Joint with one of the shafts solid mounted like that.

Is this a common thing for buggies?
 
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Old Sep 23, 2009
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its 2 pieces because one is sitn right in the bearing and the other goes to the axle. eliminates the need for the 2' longer piece of driveshaft to be hanging down getn into **** maybe? also maybe easier to swap it in and out since the one off the t-case is blocked by alot of crap
 
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Old Sep 23, 2009
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You use a 2-peice front shaft so you can set-up the shaft to have as little slip as possible throughout the suspension travel. Can't do that when the shaft goes all the way from the t-case to the pinion.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2009
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Hmm... gonna have to do some research on that I think... Keep up the photos though Jey. This stuff is cool as hell.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2009
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I fail
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009
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Originally Posted by 034x4
You use a 2-peice front shaft so you can set-up the shaft to have as little slip as possible throughout the suspension travel. Can't do that when the shaft goes all the way from the t-case to the pinion.
Ok... so the 2nd section of Driveshaft uses a slip joint? And if so, isn't that harder on the U-Joints due to the fact at full droop your angle to the front case will be pretty steep?
 
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Old Sep 30, 2009
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Building a set of headers for the same chassis.

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Old Sep 30, 2009
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now that is just freaking cool. is this a customers ride?
 
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Old Sep 30, 2009
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That's sweet!
 
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Old Sep 30, 2009
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Damn... those are some nice welds on those headers. What type of TIG machine are you using (and I swear to Christ if tell me that's MIG I'm going to hang myself as I know I'll never be that good)?
 
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Old Sep 30, 2009
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its TIG

how the hell are you welding in such tight spaces?

Nice work man.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2009
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Originally Posted by 99ranger4x4

how the hell are you welding in such tight spaces?
he welded that joint 1st then welded the Y into place..

great skills Jey..Id love to do something like that one of these days..
 
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Old Sep 30, 2009
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and hows the last one go on? lol
 
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Old Sep 30, 2009
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Originally Posted by SniperX103
Damn... those are some nice welds on those headers. What type of TIG machine are you using (and I swear to Christ if tell me that's MIG I'm going to hang myself as I know I'll never be that good)?
Miller syncrowave 250.

Originally Posted by 99ranger4x4
how the hell are you welding in such tight spaces?
Tack it all together while your fitting the tube on the car. Then on the table cut all the tubes back off, weld them up, and weld them to the collector and flange one at a time.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2009
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Originally Posted by zabeard
now that is just freaking cool. is this a customers ride?
Yup, and thanks.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2009
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I was at a loss for words, some nice fab work and time went into that.

Any suspension details? Shocks? Links? etc?
 
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Old Sep 30, 2009
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14's in the front and 16's in the back, reservoir fox coil-overs. Rear is double triangulated 4-link and front is an inverted 4-link (parallel lowers and triangulated uppers), this is to clear the driveshaft on the low-pinion 60.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2009
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Nice, with that much articulation how are you mounting the shocks? i have a terrible time in the rear figuring out how to mount my shocks, both ways the rod ends in the shocks max out and the tire rubs the shock.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2009
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Originally Posted by 034x4

Tack it all together while your fitting the tube on the car. Then on the table cut all the tubes back off, weld them up, and weld them to the collector and flange one at a time.
no i know how you get it fit up. but how do you get the middle of the last pipe welded where it connects to the collector?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2009
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Originally Posted by zabeard
Nice, with that much articulation how are you mounting the shocks? i have a terrible time in the rear figuring out how to mount my shocks, both ways the rod ends in the shocks max out and the tire rubs the shock.
I just have the shocks bolted to a tab that I tack kind of where I want it and then cycle the suspension and adjust it accordingly. Mount the eyes of the shocks so that they rotate around the bolt in the direction they move the most.

I usually mount the bolts front to back so that while articulating the rod ends don't move, except for the front to back (arc) movement of the axle.

Originally Posted by 99ranger4x4
no i know how you get it fit up. but how do you get the middle of the last pipe welded where it connects to the collector?
You don't. The tubes are a tight slip fit and you just weld as much as you can. If there is a chance for a leak, the ceramic coating takes care of it.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2009
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damn that customer ride is lookn sick. **** man build me some headers those things are hawt
 
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