How To: Auto Up/Down Windows
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01-14-2005
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How To: Auto Up/Down Windows
Auto Up/Down Windows
Basically, one can take the small, stand-alone control modules from an older Taurus (early 90's) and use them to add automatic up to the drivers side window, and both automatic up and down to the passengers side window. This how-to is primarily for 2001+ Rangers. Older Rangers without the factory installed auto down on the drivers side will require wiring more like the passengers side.
For each subtopic below, you need 1 of the auto modules from a Taurus, Sable, or CrownVic of the late eighties or early 90's. Sorry but I don't remember which years had it and which did not! But the ones that have it have "Auto" on the drivers power window switch, and the module is located in the door itself, mounted on the inner metal panel, not far from the switches. You have to remove the door trim to get to it.
Below shows pictures of what a module looks like. They come in both blue and black but are electrically identical. All the blue ones have come out of CrownVic's or Lincolns, and all the black ones from Taurus and Sables. Why Ford made different part numbers is beyond me since both contain EXACTLY the same circuit right down to the individual capacitors, resistors, etc. Note that you want to get a little of the harness that attaches to it, at least 6" or so and moer is better.
Auto Down Passenger Side
Below shows what you have when you first take the inner door panel off.
1. Cut the RD/YE (red with yellow stripe) wire going to the switch.
2. Connect the wire from terminal 1 (red wire if you have the harness piece) to the RD/YE wire going to the motor (the piece you cut that doesn't go to the switch).
3. Connect the WH/BK wire (terminal 2) to the RD/YE wire going to the switch. The picture below shows what you'll have at this point. The orange taped harness piece is the bit that came attached to the auto down module you salvaged or bought.
4. Use a tap to connect the YE/GN wire (terminal 3) to the BL/BK wire.
5. Use a tap to connect the YE wire (terminal 4) to the YE/RD wire.
6. Use a tap to connect the BK wire (terminal 5) to the WH/YE wire. When you get all the terminations done, it looks about like the pictures below. To the right you can see the module plug in, the wiring tucked away, and the module has been stuck to the door liner material with double sided tape. Note that you must angle the base of the module down so condensation does not accumulate in it. It needs to drain when required -- it's gets pretty moist inside the doors sometimes.
Okay, that will give you auto down on the passenger side. For auto up on the passenger side, you need ANOTHER module connected as follows.
Auto up Passenger Side
1. Cut the YE/RD wire going to the switch.
2. Connect the wire from terminal 1 (red wire if you have the harness piece) to the YE/RD wire going to the motor (the piece you cut that doesn't go to the switch).
3. Connect the WH/BK wire (terminal 2) to the YE/RD wire going to the switch.
4. Use a tap to connect the YE/GN wire (terminal 3) to the BL/BK wire.
5. Use a tap to connect the YE wire (terminal 4) to the RD/YE wire.
6. Use a tap to connect the BK wire (terminal 5) to the WH/YE wire. When you get this done, you have a pretty good "rat's nest" going! Below are some pictures. The other module has also been put in the door up over the speaker, although you can only see one in the picture. You actually do need to remove the whole door inner panel and not just the trim piece for this one. Below is the mess to the left, and tucked away to the right.
Note that this is nearly identical to the previous procedure, except that you cut the other motor wire this time, and the terminal 4 wire goes to the wire you cut for auto down.
Auto up on the drivers side is a little wierder, but do-able. You have to access the harness going to the motor itself and not just the switch.
Auto Up Drivers Side
1. Cut the WH/BK wire going to the motor in the motor harness, not at the switch. You also need to remove the entire inner door panel and peel back the liner to find this connector as shown to the right. Below is the motor connector and you can see the wire you must cut and splice to.
2. Connect the wire from terminal 1 (red wire if you have the harness piece) to the WH/BK wire going to the motor.
3. Connect the WH/BK wire (terminal 2) to the WH/BK wire from the wiring harness.
4. Use a tap to connect the YE/GN wire (terminal 3) to the BL/BK wire on the SWITCH.
5. Use a tap to connect the YE wire (terminal 4) to the RD wire on the MOTOR HARNESS.
6. Use a tap to connect the BK wire (terminal 5) to the TN/LB wire on the SWITCH.
And you're finished!
Basically, one can take the small, stand-alone control modules from an older Taurus (early 90's) and use them to add automatic up to the drivers side window, and both automatic up and down to the passengers side window. This how-to is primarily for 2001+ Rangers. Older Rangers without the factory installed auto down on the drivers side will require wiring more like the passengers side.
For each subtopic below, you need 1 of the auto modules from a Taurus, Sable, or CrownVic of the late eighties or early 90's. Sorry but I don't remember which years had it and which did not! But the ones that have it have "Auto" on the drivers power window switch, and the module is located in the door itself, mounted on the inner metal panel, not far from the switches. You have to remove the door trim to get to it.
Below shows pictures of what a module looks like. They come in both blue and black but are electrically identical. All the blue ones have come out of CrownVic's or Lincolns, and all the black ones from Taurus and Sables. Why Ford made different part numbers is beyond me since both contain EXACTLY the same circuit right down to the individual capacitors, resistors, etc. Note that you want to get a little of the harness that attaches to it, at least 6" or so and moer is better.
Auto Down Passenger Side
Below shows what you have when you first take the inner door panel off.
1. Cut the RD/YE (red with yellow stripe) wire going to the switch.
2. Connect the wire from terminal 1 (red wire if you have the harness piece) to the RD/YE wire going to the motor (the piece you cut that doesn't go to the switch).
3. Connect the WH/BK wire (terminal 2) to the RD/YE wire going to the switch. The picture below shows what you'll have at this point. The orange taped harness piece is the bit that came attached to the auto down module you salvaged or bought.
4. Use a tap to connect the YE/GN wire (terminal 3) to the BL/BK wire.
5. Use a tap to connect the YE wire (terminal 4) to the YE/RD wire.
6. Use a tap to connect the BK wire (terminal 5) to the WH/YE wire. When you get all the terminations done, it looks about like the pictures below. To the right you can see the module plug in, the wiring tucked away, and the module has been stuck to the door liner material with double sided tape. Note that you must angle the base of the module down so condensation does not accumulate in it. It needs to drain when required -- it's gets pretty moist inside the doors sometimes.
Okay, that will give you auto down on the passenger side. For auto up on the passenger side, you need ANOTHER module connected as follows.
Auto up Passenger Side
1. Cut the YE/RD wire going to the switch.
2. Connect the wire from terminal 1 (red wire if you have the harness piece) to the YE/RD wire going to the motor (the piece you cut that doesn't go to the switch).
3. Connect the WH/BK wire (terminal 2) to the YE/RD wire going to the switch.
4. Use a tap to connect the YE/GN wire (terminal 3) to the BL/BK wire.
5. Use a tap to connect the YE wire (terminal 4) to the RD/YE wire.
6. Use a tap to connect the BK wire (terminal 5) to the WH/YE wire. When you get this done, you have a pretty good "rat's nest" going! Below are some pictures. The other module has also been put in the door up over the speaker, although you can only see one in the picture. You actually do need to remove the whole door inner panel and not just the trim piece for this one. Below is the mess to the left, and tucked away to the right.
Note that this is nearly identical to the previous procedure, except that you cut the other motor wire this time, and the terminal 4 wire goes to the wire you cut for auto down.
Auto up on the drivers side is a little wierder, but do-able. You have to access the harness going to the motor itself and not just the switch.
Auto Up Drivers Side
1. Cut the WH/BK wire going to the motor in the motor harness, not at the switch. You also need to remove the entire inner door panel and peel back the liner to find this connector as shown to the right. Below is the motor connector and you can see the wire you must cut and splice to.
2. Connect the wire from terminal 1 (red wire if you have the harness piece) to the WH/BK wire going to the motor.
3. Connect the WH/BK wire (terminal 2) to the WH/BK wire from the wiring harness.
4. Use a tap to connect the YE/GN wire (terminal 3) to the BL/BK wire on the SWITCH.
5. Use a tap to connect the YE wire (terminal 4) to the RD wire on the MOTOR HARNESS.
6. Use a tap to connect the BK wire (terminal 5) to the TN/LB wire on the SWITCH.
And you're finished!
Credit is fully given to John Griggs himself. John Griggs is in no way held responsible for the use of this information. To view this entire article, and learn more, visit his site at John Griggs's CarDomain Page!
#2
03-24-2005
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#3
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#5
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#9
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Anyone ever do this on a 2010? I found the 3 modules at the local u-pull and picked them up for $5.99 for the 3 of them so was super excited to install them but hit two problems.
First 2010 wiring is all different colors... not a problem I got the wiring diagram for a 2004 and 2010 so was able to figure out the colors for the passenger side no problem. Once I install them and it's working I'll post the colors for 2010.
The problem I have is looking at the diagrams for the 2010 drivers side it appears to be a different design for the drivers switch so the last wire needed tn/lb from the switch goes straight to the motor instead of like 2004 where it goes to the smart junction box... anyone done it on 2010?
First 2010 wiring is all different colors... not a problem I got the wiring diagram for a 2004 and 2010 so was able to figure out the colors for the passenger side no problem. Once I install them and it's working I'll post the colors for 2010.
The problem I have is looking at the diagrams for the 2010 drivers side it appears to be a different design for the drivers switch so the last wire needed tn/lb from the switch goes straight to the motor instead of like 2004 where it goes to the smart junction box... anyone done it on 2010?
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#11
06-13-2012
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A big thanks to the forum as I found out about this mod and how to do it here :)
#16
06-13-2012
Just to clarify, but this is wrong. If you install the module for the passenger doors auto up/down on the passenger side, it activates BOTH switches, street and curbside. Two modules for the passenger side, one for the drivers to add all auto functionality.
To add auto functions on ALL switches BOTH windows... if you have auto down on drivers already, you need THREE. ONE to go on the drivers side, to add auto up. TWO go on the PASSENGER side to add both auto up and down, which will add the function REGARDLESS which switch you will be using.
To add auto functions on ALL switches BOTH windows... if you have auto down on drivers already, you need THREE. ONE to go on the drivers side, to add auto up. TWO go on the PASSENGER side to add both auto up and down, which will add the function REGARDLESS which switch you will be using.
#17
06-15-2012
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Directions above a great but the wiring color and drivers switch design changed in 2007... I used the directions above and the wiring diagrams I found to figure out how to connect these for a 2007+ mainly just wires are a different color but the drivers switch for wire 5 is different and I handled it by tying it to wire 4.
Works well enough and only difference is wire 5 is seeing 12V when drivers window is going down manually... doesn't seem to impact anything.
I'll put up a quick diagram in-case anyone is trying this on 2007+
Information is based from John Griggs provided information
Works well enough and only difference is wire 5 is seeing 12V when drivers window is going down manually... doesn't seem to impact anything.
I'll put up a quick diagram in-case anyone is trying this on 2007+
Information is based from John Griggs provided information
Credit is fully given to John Griggs himself. John Griggs is in no way held responsible for the use of this information. To view this entire article, and learn more, visit his site at John Griggs's CarDomain Page!
#18
12-11-2012
has anyone had issues after doing this like the window stoping an inch or 2 before its fully closed? also sometimes the one touch feature on the driver side doesnt work period, and it will come back in a few seconds. i kind of feel like its because its colder here right now, by that i mean like 40 50 at the lowest. anyone have any idea what may cause this? i angled the modules so condensation comes off.....
#19
12-11-2012
#20
12-11-2012
#21
12-11-2012
has anyone had issues after doing this like the window stoping an inch or 2 before its fully closed? also sometimes the one touch feature on the driver side doesnt work period, and it will come back in a few seconds. i kind of feel like its because its colder here right now, by that i mean like 40 50 at the lowest. anyone have any idea what may cause this? i angled the modules so condensation comes off.....
but one of them had come loose. so it was doing the same thing.
#22
12-13-2012
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