I am thinking about what it would take to mount a Ranger std cab short bed on an Early Bronco Frame.

I am thinking... Extend the wheel base and make some body mounts.

Does anyone have a comment on what is the best way to approach the frame extending, is it as simple as EB = 94" and Ranger = 111.6", cut the EB Frame, add in 17.4"s of steel.

 

Be very careful... muck up the measurements or welds, and the thing will dog track like nothing else. Or just wear tires real funny like. Or break.

You will want to box the frame in with rectangular tube of the right size... and weld fish plates on the inside of both c-channel splices.

So, AFTER you put the proper length rect. tube over the frame rail and slide it aside so you can weld, take c-channel of the proper size, weld that splice in, butt weld on the frame pieces, do not overlap these two as it will interfere with the rect. tube fitting over it.

Then weld fish plates on the inside of the frame to connect the frame ends to the c-channel you spliced in. Once that is done, check the welds over and make damn sure they're good.

If they are good, slide the rect. tube over the frame rail splice (ideally covering the entire splice from one end to the other, and welded to the frame on both ends past the c-channel splice.)

If this is too confusing, either consult a certified weldor and/or let me know and I'll make a ms paint drawing that would give you a better idea of WTF's going on.

If anything, overengineer the hell out of it and use a good 220v machine to make the welds. Do not, for the love of God, use a 110v machine for this kind of a critical application.

 

Its not so much in the process of how to extend the frame. Its where you extend it.
I'm sure you've measured width and are aware you'll probably need to fab up a few mounts also.
that being said.
You must decide where your going to add you 17" to the frame. Ideally you'd want to do it more towards the rear of the Bronco frame. As that is where the bed sits and it isn't as heavy, nor as complicated to mount as the cab is.

 

Thanks for the info, not being a certified welder I would have to get someone to do the welding.
Talked to local guys and they all come back $100+/hr and 20 or 30 hours of engineering and welding.
SO… I contacted a Frame shop and asked about a new EB Frame, stretched to 111.6” WB.
I am thinking in the long run the cost of having the frame engineered/mod’d/welded and won’t be too much different from buying a new one.

TDK is in the process of looking to the idea of a stretched EB Frame, without body mounts but still retain all of the EB Suspension and Engine/Trans and T/C Mounting.

It wil be a lot of work to swap in a TDK Frame but what you get is a new frame (almost the same price as mod’g an old one), no welds, D44 and 9" mounting all ready built in and stock EB Suspension pieces and steering. Only thing will be deciding is if the EB Spring rates will be the same thing as the Ranger; i think the front will work but the rear is the big question. May cost me a couple sets of coils but I think I can resell any EB Coils I have left over.

Thanks again for your comments, I liked 1996DangerRanger engineered frame stretch, good ideas, do you do this for a living ?

StxDangerRanger, thanks for your ideas on the stretch points but it looks like the new frame idea might be the best choice.

 

Estimate on new EB Frame (EBF) stretched to 111.6” wheelbase is $2400.
To buy used EBF in good condition - $300 (if lucky
Stretch it - min Price $2000 upward to $3000.
Still would need to clean it up and it is still an old frame.

So $2300 to $3300 to get a used one and mod it and $2400 + shipping to get a new one.

All I need now is the room to start this project.

 

look up project B2R i think it was, on TRS, member maverick started a project just like this. but it never got finished.. he put the cab and frame up for sale a few months ago.

 

I assume the “B2R” means BroncoII and Ranger ?
I have read a lot of these builds, BII Frames, F150 Frames, 78+ Frames but not what I am looking for.
I do not want a BII frame, same thing as my Ranger but with TTB front end, nothing to gain and I want full length… 111.6” WB.

Thanks for the info I will look it up though.

 

Next on the list.

I need to know how the engine placement on both frames align with the center line of the front axles ?

Anyone ever work with either or both of these frames ?

Thanks for any info !

 

Is there any welding schools around you? Come spring time they will be taking their certified test and most of them would love to help you out at a good price I bet. Its really not as hard as it sounds, as long as everything is strait and true when you go to weld it. I wouldn't even bother boxing it, just plate the cuts on both sides it wont go anywhere. Iv shortened a frame from a 8ft bed to a 61/2ft bed and all we did is plate it and its sronger the factory would ever be.

Iv also cut the frame rails right behind the cab and we used square stock to make our own rails. The only thing about that is everything will need to be custom mounted and it might take some work to get the bed to line up.

 

No welding schools that I know of.

thanks for the idea.

As far as the frame IF I get that far, the frame will come from TDK, it will be an EB Frame but with 111.6” wheel base so no welding on the frame except the body mounts and maybe gas tank mounting in the rear.
This will allow me a really HD frame, solid axles and a V8 all in one swoop.

 

Why a bronco frame? Are they similar to a rangers? Have you looked into a f250 frame and shortening it? That would probably be even stronger because aren't broncos f150 based? It just seems like you could have something better for that kind of money. Or maybe not I don't really know. Either way that's going to be a great base for a nice build!

 

Actually the Early Bronco ’77 back, were boxed and very rugged for their size, I would say a better frame then the F-100 and F150s.
The reason I am going with the early Bronco is the width, the EB is somewhere around 30” and the Full size truck are wider, not sure where the Ranger actually is but it is wider than the 30”.
Also, the axle width on a full size is too wide, EB are narrower by the beast and should fit better; std axles vs custom ones.

This thing needs to be a DD so too wide will not fly.

 

I had no idea. Sounds like a good frame to go with then. This is going to be a really cool build