Hey Tony... side note. My dad was raised in Groveland and I was raised about 30 miles west of that.
As far as nitrous goes. I'm pert near an expert these days.
There are three things that will allow for higher than *normal* shot sizes.
1) Avoiding initial lean out.
2) Ramping the shot size based on RPMs (or time)
1) Initial lean out is the biggest problem with typical nitrous kits. Make sure you shoot fuel first. This to some degree helps soften the "hit". And just to clearify.. when I say fuel first. I mean that a plume of fuel needs to leave your nozzle before the nitrous does. Depending on your setup and pipe lengths.. you'll have to figure out how to do it. (controller & pipe lengths)
2) If your shooting a 60 shot at say.. 2800 rpms (and it's living). Then it'll take a 90 shot at 4200 rpms and a 120 shot at 5600 rpms.
That may sound excessive. But what your currently shooting with an instant on system... is exactly what your doing. And in reality if your shooting nitrous first (which you probably are by default) your hitting it even harder than the numbers I suggest.
3) Common perception is that higher octanes burn slower. This is not true. The burn rate from one "pump gas" to another is the same. Increasing octane help prevent detonation.
Quote from Wikipedia:
Detonation in reciprocating engines is the uncontrolled supersonic explosion of the fuel-air charge, and is caused by excessively high combustion chamber temperatures. Increasing the temperature of the fuel-air charge increases the speed of combustion until the flame propagates at supersonic speeds, resulting in a pressure shockwave. This force is extremely destructive...
So when spraying on your stock 3.0L. I'd suggest a 90-100 shot ramped up. Shooting fuel first by 0.2 seconds (at the nozzle) and running octane thats up around 94-95 with stock timing. Maybe up around 95-96 if your timing is higher than stock. Also, the motor will rev quicker so I'd lower the shift points about 200-300 over whats optimim in NA form.