Is it safe to put a bolt on turbo on my 4.0 EFI, or am I also going to need some new MAF or an air sensor chip to go along with it?

 

WOWSA... i hate to tell you but you are going to need a lot... aside from needing to plumb the oil lines for the turbo itself, if you want anythign over 5-6 PSI you will want forged pistons with a lower compression ratio. with ANY amount of boost you will need to up the fueling ability of the engine and make sure the computer is programmed correctly to deal with boost. there are a WHOLE lot of things that need to be considered when adding boost to an engine.

 

ok, well it's not worth it then for a 7psi boost. thanks man

 

im no turbo pro or anything, but i mean honestly, do you think it would be THAT easy?????


if it were, dont you think everybody would have them?

i dont mean to be rude-ish, but just think it through a little bit...

 

7psi is actually lot of boost for any motor, no its not like 16 or 17 on which the mitsubishis run, but 7 lbs is definatly alot, a good rule of thumb is 10bhp for every 1lb of boost, so you will be looking into somewhere around 60-90whp more, and realisitcally you will need:

turbo
oil lines
piping
walbero fuel pump
exhaust manifolds
custom exhaust
and a universal EMS( engine management system)

in reality you are looking around 3500 to do a complete kit
and the motor can definatly hold 7lbs of boost for a while so you wont need to put new pistons and rods and completely re-do the motor.

Its definatly something that can be done but it will take a while to make, beucase you have to make exhaust manifolds and mock the piping up and have that made, the oil lines are gonna be one of the easiest things to do....
but dont be disapointed becuase you can only run 6 or 7 lbs of boost, beucase thats really a drastic change in the performance of the vehicale.....

 

actually the stock fuel pump should be perfectly fine to somewhere close to 15 lbs of boost, if you want larger cheaply you can go with one of the stock mustang 190 pumps and not drop all that cash on the walbro 255 pump. you will however need larger injectors, possibly a different fuel pressure regulator like a rising rate regulator, and of course the computer system to manage the fueling...

 

I thought it was only going to be a bolt-on, change a few little things job (sensors, intake tubing, etc)

 

Lot of misinformation here.

The stock fuel pump is in no way adequate to support the added horsepower. It will run out around 250whp.

Second, 10 hp per lb of boost is pretty low and would only be accurate on a Ttoosmall garret like a T25 which is not enough to even bother with on a truck with this kind of weight. A healthy turbo will make 20-30 hp per pound depending on size, efficiency range and displacement. I make an average of 23hp per pound on my car.

Also, you can't judge what a motor will hold in terms of PSI, you measure it in terms of horsepower as psi is not equal amongst turbos. I would personally not try to push more than 300whp out of a stock motor simply because no one has experimented with these engines a lot to see what the breaking point is on rods and ringlands.

Last but not least, a 190lph pump and a 255 lph pump cost the same thing, 99 bucks all day long. No need to just get a 190 when you can get the 255 which will support upwards of 550 whp with no real strain on it. When it comes to FI, you would rather have a bit of overkill on the systems abilities than just barely enough. Room for error is cut WAY down.

 

ok i have had alot of experience with turbos, mostly on nissans but thats ok its better then just reading what others have posted.

there are a few ways to go about the fuel issue, id just say go with the 255 walbro. we run them all the time on pretty much everything i have had turboed. its very reliable and cheap and a good investment. having the wrong air to fuel mixture is one of the biggest killers of engines, second to weak headbolts/studs and headgaskets.

one way to figure out a way to deal with the fuel control with what we did in my 240 was take the injectors from the SR20 motor on my KA24 along with the MAF from the RB20

the reason we used those is because the SR injectors run 30% more fuel over stock and to compensate for that we used the RB20 MAF which runs 30% less fuel over stock.

so what i am thinking of for you is find a MAF and injectors that run the same variables and work for the truck. one of these days before i do a supercharger on my 3.0 ill sit down and feed you guys the numbers and parts to use to help out.

hope that can help out.

 

just buy an exploer express supercharger.. its a llot better then a turbo i think.. i dont like turbo's except on a desil (sp). plus a hell of a lot easier to bolt up then a turbo..

 

ACTUALLY JUST 1 CORRECTION ITS 7 HP PER 1 LB OF BOOST NOT 10

 

In a perfect world its 10Hp/lb of boost. Factor in humidity, ambient air temps, baro pressure, VE, intercooler pressure drop, fuel etc etc and you have a RANGE of results that you will see from 1lb of boost.

To say that you get 7HP is about as much crap as saying you get 10Hp. Its not a set number, and will not be the same from engine to engine for respectively the same PSI.

He also noted 10bhp, do you know the difference between BrakeHp and WheelHp? FlywheelHp?