notrous
#1
notrous
okay so i have been reading as much as i can about nitrous. However it has left me with lots of misleading info or some stuff i just dont understand. can some one please break down all aspects of nitrous how it works? i have got as much info as i can of google but there is just too much stuff on google that is damn useless.
#2
#3
lol im not looking for stupid big gains i know fast and the furious is a joke. really im just looking for some fun. there is a 35 hp kit from zex called safe shot i think im gona pick up because anything more is looking for something to go wrong for me atleast. and i just noticed i spelt nitrous worng in the title
#5
yes plastic............for now. anyways this is the nitrous system i am looking at. Zex: Safe Shot Nitrous System From ZEX™
one more question what is a EFI-powered vehicle
one more question what is a EFI-powered vehicle
#7
yes plastic............for now. anyways this is the nitrous system i am looking at. Zex: Safe Shot Nitrous System From ZEX™
one more question what is a EFI-powered vehicle
one more question what is a EFI-powered vehicle
theres a reason no one on here uses it
#8
im really not trying to be an ***. but if you dont even know what EFI is then you need to look into other things than nitrous. a better thing to do would be headers, tuners, air intake, cams. you need to know your stuff before you play with nitrous. its an easy fast way to destroy the inside of your engine.
#10
no i do not plan on spraying while i am under warenty. just learning about it. my friend is looking too buy one so i think im going too do alot my learning from that
#12
well in that case go over to therangerstation.com and look in their tech library, you will find their info about nitrous. very useful
Nitrous Oxide & How It Works
How To Setup Nitrous Oxide On A Daily Driver
that should tell you what you wanna know
Nitrous Oxide & How It Works
How To Setup Nitrous Oxide On A Daily Driver
that should tell you what you wanna know
#13
im really not trying to be an ***. but if you dont even know what EFI is then you need to look into other things than nitrous. a better thing to do would be headers, tuners, air intake, cams. you need to know your stuff before you play with nitrous. its an easy fast way to destroy the inside of your engine.
theres a reason no one on here uses it
theres a reason no one on here uses it
Accept for me.
I spray my 3.0 with a 60 HP. shot whenever I want to stomp on a ricer.
This is my daily driver with 88,000 miles on it.
So have no fear it can be done.But like it's been said if you don't know alot about tuning on EFI then you will want to be very careful.Definitely do your research before you try it.
The thing about Nitrous on a non forged motor is by the time you here detonation it's too late for your pistons.
Your looking at over a $1000 to do a Nitrous system properly with Tuner,N2O System,N2O Controller,Plugs ect...ect...
If your only looking at a 35 HP. shot you should probably just get Pulleys,Roller Rockers and Headers to start until your confident in your Nitrous installation/tuning skills.
Good Luck,
Tony
Last edited by N20-3.0; 10-19-2009 at 03:03 AM.
#14
Accept for me.
I spray my 3.0 with a 60 HP. shot whenever I want to stomp on a ricer.
This is my daily driver with 88,000 miles on it.
So have no fear it can be done.But like it's been said if you don't know alot about tuning on EFI then you will want to be very careful.Definitely do your research before you try it.
The thing about Nitrous on a non forged motor is by the time you here detonation it's too late for your pistons.
Your looking at over a $1000 to do a Nitrous system properly with Tuner,N2O System,N2O Controller,Plugs ect...ect...
If your only looking at a 35 HP. shot you should probably just get Pulleys,Roller Rockers and Headers to start until your confident in your Nitrous installation/tuning skills.
Good Luck,
Tony
I spray my 3.0 with a 60 HP. shot whenever I want to stomp on a ricer.
This is my daily driver with 88,000 miles on it.
So have no fear it can be done.But like it's been said if you don't know alot about tuning on EFI then you will want to be very careful.Definitely do your research before you try it.
The thing about Nitrous on a non forged motor is by the time you here detonation it's too late for your pistons.
Your looking at over a $1000 to do a Nitrous system properly with Tuner,N2O System,N2O Controller,Plugs ect...ect...
If your only looking at a 35 HP. shot you should probably just get Pulleys,Roller Rockers and Headers to start until your confident in your Nitrous installation/tuning skills.
Good Luck,
Tony
#15
They call it safe because it's a "dry" shot. Meaning there is no fuel being injected. Fuel is what burns. And this is whats is burning when you hear about an explosion. No fuel in the intake = no explosion.
Now.. the whole reason there are backfires is because of improperly designed nitrous kits. That gets deep real quick...
IMO the best way to go is to have a tune that adds fuel via the stock fuel system and **ramp** a 50-60hp dry shot. FJO makes a very nice and economical controller for this.
Instant on systems are bad for traction and H-A-R-D on drivetrain parts. I'd personally suggest a ramping controller.
Rich
Now.. the whole reason there are backfires is because of improperly designed nitrous kits. That gets deep real quick...
IMO the best way to go is to have a tune that adds fuel via the stock fuel system and **ramp** a 50-60hp dry shot. FJO makes a very nice and economical controller for this.
Instant on systems are bad for traction and H-A-R-D on drivetrain parts. I'd personally suggest a ramping controller.
Rich
#17
Really dont see a need for it on a daily driven ranger but if you do decide to go threw with it make sure you get the truck dyno tuned on the spray. The plastic intake will handle 60hp easily, so no need to upgrade there. The biggest choice is a wet or dry shot so do your research and decide which will be better suited for your application.
#18
They call it safe because it's a "dry" shot. Meaning there is no fuel being injected. Fuel is what burns. And this is whats is burning when you hear about an explosion. No fuel in the intake = no explosion.
Now..the whole reason there are backfires is because of improperly designed nitrous kits.
Rich
Now..the whole reason there are backfires is because of improperly designed nitrous kits.
Rich
You can blow the intake off just as easy with a dry shot.
The backfire starts in the combustion chamber where Nitrous and fuel mix with spark.Most commonly it starts with a improper tune or early activation of the system[not enough RPM's].When this happens you can blow your intake off, bend a valve, connecting rod or more with a wet or dry kit.
On a small shot like we are talking about the amount of fuel being injected into the intake is minimal and when it gets combined with 950+ psi of Nitrous pressure at the Fogger Nozzle it gets atomized very well.
Also remember that your at WOT when spraying.So the fuel/nitrous mix is not going to settle and run down the intake.If you have fuel just puddling up in your intake your truck will not run[too rich].
I'm not saying a wet kit is the best way it's just how I like to do it everybody has an opinion.
But in my truck I found it better to add fuel with the kit instead of the injectors.This way I can run my nitrous tune all the time without adding extra fuel with the injectors when it's not needed.
My bottle is always in my truck and ready to go.
On my Cobra I shoot a 75 HP. wet shot through the blower with no problems at all.
Tony
Last edited by N20-3.0; 10-19-2009 at 01:54 PM.
#19
They call it safe because it's a "dry" shot. Meaning there is no fuel being injected. Fuel is what burns. And this is whats is burning when you hear about an explosion. No fuel in the intake = no explosion.
Now.. the whole reason there are backfires is because of improperly designed nitrous kits. That gets deep real quick...
IMO the best way to go is to have a tune that adds fuel via the stock fuel system and **ramp** a 50-60hp dry shot. FJO makes a very nice and economical controller for this.
Instant on systems are bad for traction and H-A-R-D on drivetrain parts. I'd personally suggest a ramping controller.
Rich
Now.. the whole reason there are backfires is because of improperly designed nitrous kits. That gets deep real quick...
IMO the best way to go is to have a tune that adds fuel via the stock fuel system and **ramp** a 50-60hp dry shot. FJO makes a very nice and economical controller for this.
Instant on systems are bad for traction and H-A-R-D on drivetrain parts. I'd personally suggest a ramping controller.
Rich
http://www.fjoracing.com/products/2stageminicontroller/ also im not sure what the "ramp" you are talking about it. too much 5 am learning for me
#20