How much we looking at here??
#1
10-11-2008
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How much we looking at here??
#2
10-11-2008
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The tie rod end I couldnt tell you
The rotted vac line could be your problem, im sure all the lines that are made out of that hose are dry rotted.
Those little "clips" are just adapters to go from the larger vac line to the smaller one and couplers to connect 2 together.
Yes those ball joints need to be replaced soon. It looks like the boot is about to rip,so dirt and water will kill them quick.
If your having problems getting your hubs to engage then just switch out to the avm manual hubs. Its alot better then dealing with replacing all the vacuum lines that leak.
The rotted vac line could be your problem, im sure all the lines that are made out of that hose are dry rotted.
Those little "clips" are just adapters to go from the larger vac line to the smaller one and couplers to connect 2 together.
Yes those ball joints need to be replaced soon. It looks like the boot is about to rip,so dirt and water will kill them quick.
If your having problems getting your hubs to engage then just switch out to the avm manual hubs. Its alot better then dealing with replacing all the vacuum lines that leak.
Last edited by schatten789; 10-11-2008 at 03:37 PM.
#3
10-11-2008
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The tie rod end I couldnt tell you
The rotted vac line could be your problem, im sure all the lines that are made out of that hose are dry rotted.
Those little "clips" are just adapters to go from the larger vac line to the smaller one and couplers to connect 2 together.
Yes those ball joints need to be replaced soon.
If your having problems getting your hubs to engage then just switch out to the avm manual hubs. Its alot better then dealing with replacing all the vacuum lines that leak.
The rotted vac line could be your problem, im sure all the lines that are made out of that hose are dry rotted.
Those little "clips" are just adapters to go from the larger vac line to the smaller one and couplers to connect 2 together.
Yes those ball joints need to be replaced soon.
If your having problems getting your hubs to engage then just switch out to the avm manual hubs. Its alot better then dealing with replacing all the vacuum lines that leak.
#4
10-11-2008
You are supposed to jack it up and support the vehicle by the lower control arms, then take the tire off and hook your prybar in the frame and lay the paybar across the top of the upper control arm and pry down on the upper balljoint/control arm. Since both balljoint studs point down, you will be able to see play in both ball joints at this time. If you want pics of how this is done since i am not good at being discriptive, i will be more than happy to supply some. The 12 and 6 shaking method of checking ball joints usually doesnt apply to torsion bar suspension unless the ball joints are totally blown out. I would say if you have more than about 3/16'' play then its time to replace them.
take your truck to a shop and have them "smoke" the vacuum system. they fill the vacuum lines with smoke to fidn the leak
take your truck to a shop and have them "smoke" the vacuum system. they fill the vacuum lines with smoke to fidn the leak
#5
10-11-2008
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The hubs not locking in could be a simple fix though. I'd recommend just going to the ford garage and have them inspect it and see what they find out. If it's something expensive, just swap in the AVM Manual hubs. Otherwise just have them fix it or order the parts and do it yourself.
Last edited by schatten789; 10-11-2008 at 03:38 PM.
#6
10-11-2008
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If money is a problem...
One of these is the very problem that led me to this site. What was Ford thinking when they designed that front hub vacuum mess? You can "lock" the front hubs so they are always engaged. Use the writeup here ( https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ead.php?t=9211 ). It worked for me last winter, and one year plus 10,000 miles later it still works. This will lock your axle like the '01+ Rangers.
I have read somewhere else that the white piece that you pull the clip off of actually works like a "click-pen". if you cut a whole in the black disc that holds the assembly in place then you can walk to the front corners and have a push-to-engage hub situation. I'm going to try this as soon as I can find replacements from the junk-yard.
As for the ball joints and tie-rod ends, be careful. The ball joints from Ford will run you ~$900 for the four. If I had to get them done again i would go to a set of Moog joints that you can grease. My '92 Explorer had grease-able joints. When Ford switched to the IFS they took away the grease point on the ball joins for the Explorer, Ranger, and F-150, that I know of.
Why doesn't the standard 12-6 method of checking for ball joints not apply to torsion vehicles? if the vehicle is in the air then the knuckle should still move freely I am genuinely curious on this one because that is the standard check that I do.
I have read somewhere else that the white piece that you pull the clip off of actually works like a "click-pen". if you cut a whole in the black disc that holds the assembly in place then you can walk to the front corners and have a push-to-engage hub situation. I'm going to try this as soon as I can find replacements from the junk-yard.
As for the ball joints and tie-rod ends, be careful. The ball joints from Ford will run you ~$900 for the four. If I had to get them done again i would go to a set of Moog joints that you can grease. My '92 Explorer had grease-able joints. When Ford switched to the IFS they took away the grease point on the ball joins for the Explorer, Ranger, and F-150, that I know of.
Why doesn't the standard 12-6 method of checking for ball joints not apply to torsion vehicles? if the vehicle is in the air then the knuckle should still move freely I am genuinely curious on this one because that is the standard check that I do.
Last edited by BigDaddy; 10-11-2008 at 07:02 PM.
#7
10-12-2008
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First of all, i should been more specific..My hubs are fine, i have a CEL thats a vacuum line, i thought those were the brake lines i took a pic of? I thought if they are dry rotted then maybe that could cause my CEL?? So if thats the vac lines for the hubs, yeah i want worry about it, cuz some AVM's are on the way...The tie rod end stays the same only on the pass side, the drivers side stays turned forward???
#8
10-12-2008
One of these is the very problem that led me to this site. What was Ford thinking when they designed that front hub vacuum mess? You can "lock" the front hubs so they are always engaged. Use the writeup here ( https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ead.php?t=9211 ). It worked for me last winter, and one year plus 10,000 miles later it still works. This will lock your axle like the '01+ Rangers.
I have read somewhere else that the white piece that you pull the clip off of actually works like a "click-pen". if you cut a whole in the black disc that holds the assembly in place then you can walk to the front corners and have a push-to-engage hub situation. I'm going to try this as soon as I can find replacements from the junk-yard.
As for the ball joints and tie-rod ends, be careful. The ball joints from Ford will run you ~$900 for the four. If I had to get them done again i would go to a set of Moog joints that you can grease. My '92 Explorer had grease-able joints. When Ford switched to the IFS they took away the grease point on the ball joins for the Explorer, Ranger, and F-150, that I know of.
Why doesn't the standard 12-6 method of checking for ball joints not apply to torsion vehicles? if the vehicle is in the air then the knuckle should still move freely I am genuinely curious on this one because that is the standard check that I do.
I have read somewhere else that the white piece that you pull the clip off of actually works like a "click-pen". if you cut a whole in the black disc that holds the assembly in place then you can walk to the front corners and have a push-to-engage hub situation. I'm going to try this as soon as I can find replacements from the junk-yard.
As for the ball joints and tie-rod ends, be careful. The ball joints from Ford will run you ~$900 for the four. If I had to get them done again i would go to a set of Moog joints that you can grease. My '92 Explorer had grease-able joints. When Ford switched to the IFS they took away the grease point on the ball joins for the Explorer, Ranger, and F-150, that I know of.
Why doesn't the standard 12-6 method of checking for ball joints not apply to torsion vehicles? if the vehicle is in the air then the knuckle should still move freely I am genuinely curious on this one because that is the standard check that I do.
also for lower ball joints my mechanic charged me 179 bucks to replace both of them.
#10
10-12-2008
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It is hard to tell from the pic, but if the tie rod boot is damaged, then the tie rod end needs to be replaced. Water and dirt will ruin the joint and it will lose its grease. The same goes for the ball joint.
Yes. Moogs have grease fittings.
Yes. Moogs have grease fittings.
#11
10-13-2008
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#12
10-13-2008
I just ordered all new ball joints and tie rod ends from rockauto, right about $325 for everything.
Mine didn't look near as bad as yours. But some of mine had little tears in the boot so I figured it was time to replace all of them.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=68937
Mine didn't look near as bad as yours. But some of mine had little tears in the boot so I figured it was time to replace all of them.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=68937
#13
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#18
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Well heres the thing, i dont really see that guy much. He used to be a friend of the family, but hasnt come around for a while. Well he told me i should give his dad (whos garage and tools i used) like 20 bucks for helping..Well i kinda forgot too late and havent talked or been back by there, so....
#20
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#22
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I have a ratchet set, and a hammer outa that list...I was reading you need a press and other things, i dont have a jack either...My buddy's dad has the tools im sure of, im gonna see if i can do it over there
#23
10-13-2008
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