Never really had to order parts like this before online. I don't know a good source to go to because I'm not looking to buy in bulk. Any help would be appreciated.

 

You may be able to get them at Radio Shack.

I buy here, but "standard shipping" is $6 -- so it pays to buy a bit. Things are really cheap there, generally, and the quality has been GREAT.

http://www.allelectronics.com

There are both 2 wire and 3 wire designs. The 3 wire types have a common cathode (or anode in some designs) and you can apply a voltage to 1 LED or both simultaneously.

The 2 wire types require you to reverse polarity to make them work. To blend colors requires AC current that alternately switches on one or the other fast enough that your eye can't see it.

Both types are available at AllElectronics.

 

I'll second that. On John's recommendation, I have ordered several items from AllElectronics including bipolar LEDs. They don't have minimums as such although they do give discounts for quantity purchases.

 

I'm gonna give the door lock mod that Bob did a shot. With the electrical class I have taken and my brother who is studying electrical engineering and this board if I need any furthur help I think I can come up with something. I am gonna ask some teachers here at school of they can get me two of them.

For doing the door lock mod do you recommend using the two or 3 wire design?

Thanks for the quick response John.

 

Actually, John pioneered the mod and mine is based on his. We both used the two-lead style LEDs.

 

Yeah, but Bob's is WAY nicer and more refined than what I did. Thanks for the "props" though, Bob!

 

don't mean to hijack, but what is a bipolar LED? What's the difference?

 

Normal LED's have a normal affect -- that is to say, normal emotional context in common as well as extraordinary situations. Bi-polar LED's have swings between high output and low output states and can only be controlled by advanced electronics or medication...

 

hahahaha

 

Okay, now that I got a reaction...

Bipolar LED's are two LED's mounted in the same package. They are connected either back-to-back in reverse-parallel or with a common lead going to both of them, and then the other lead of each separate.

The generally are red and green, though other color combinations can be found. They allow a single LED to be driven to either produce red, green, or some shade of amber in between.

They are referred to as "bi-polar" or more correctly "bipolar" because the most common configuration lights up in different colors based on polarity. Really, the 3 lead kind are dual LED's, but not bipolar -- though they are usually still called that.

 

I've got one of these setups that is completely soldered and has wires running out of ,the project box and led's and holders all ready to go. The only problem is that my 98 has a little bit different wiring and I couldn't get it to work. If someone is interested in it, let me know. I am fairly new at soldering, but everything seems to work as needed when i tested it on the workbench. The wiring difference is something about on newer trucks the Theft light that is incorporated in this mod operates completely backwards than just a few years older in 98. This should work on any 01+ truck I would think..

 

The 2001+ uses the PCM to switch the ground side of the 'THEFT' LED but the 98 uses the RAP module to switch the hot side. Since the current limiting resistor is internal to the RAP module on the 98, it is only suitable for a single LED, not 3 in parallel. There is probably some way around this but it is not simple like the 2001+.

 

So your saying that my 2000 wiringis gonna give me difficulties. I might have to change it some to make something cool work.I just want the ones in the lock pin holes. I'm not really attached to the ones on the door pannels so I figure that will aid in the ease of installation.

 

I'm afraid so. The 2000 is the same situation as the 98 except the switched positive is supplied by the PATS module instead of the RAP module. On your 2000, the problem would be the same regardless of whether you do 2 extra LEDs or 4.

 

OK I think I understand. I'm not gonna be able to make it blink with the theft light. (I have no idea how anyone else has theirs wired) I guess I am gonna have to build a circut that has constant power into it and will make it flash. I thinki I can do this.

 

You can buy flashing LEDs off the shelf but I don't remember seeing any flashing bipolar LEDs. There's a good chance that someone somewhere makes them, though.

 

Then maybe for my truck the best way would be just buy the flashing ones and only do red for locked. That would still be cool.

 

That would work very well, IMO.

 

Yeah I agree. Thanks for all the help Bob. I am hoping that Radioshack will have the flashing red ones. That way I can do the install soon. Besides the LEDs and a few resistors I don't think I will need anything else since I am using flashing LEDs of only 1 color. Would you correct me if I am wrong. Also what type of mount did you buy to make it fit perfectly in that hole?

 

These are the part numbers that John and I both used. The relay is a magnetically latching type that, in effect, remembers the last lock command. You may need it or something like it to control the flashing red LEDs as well.

Relay: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...-87&type=store

Bezel: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...D-3&type=store

LED's: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...D-6&type=store



The LEDs above are the bipolar type. If you want to change to flashing red, you will need something like this:

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...D-4&type=store

In any case, the size you will need is T - 1 3/4 (also known as 5mm) to fit in the bezel which is a slightly loose fit in the lock pin hole - I ended up gluing mine with a dab of silicone seal.

 

Sweet. Thanks again Bob.

 

rather than having to order a latched relay could I do this. I'm not sure how the power for the locks works yet.

 

Yes, but you'll have a relay energized all the time drawing power (the latching ones are magnetically latching and draw no power after the pulse).

Also, your design doesn't have a circuit to unlatch it.

 

well I guess I will just have to order a latching relay. Oh well could be worse.

 

One thing to note: the relays we used are TINY. So be prepared for that. I mounted mine on a little circuit board from Radio Shack. Well, not mine exactly -- I've done two trucks with the original mod but never done my own!