So I've had my spindles on for a couple months now, and I'm just noticing a couple things. I've lost turning radius, and I have read that I need to grind a bit of the lower control arm. I have pictures of where the lower control is coming in contact with what looks like a bolt related to the spindle set up. I hope I haven't damaged the bolt to the point that it won't come off easily. Also, whenever I drive down from a curb, or really anything that involves even a small drop down, I hear a noise in the front like a couple pieces of metal hitting together. I read somewhere that this could be something hitting the frame, and that this can be corrected with a limiting strap. I've never dealt with limiting straps, so I really don't know where to find any info about what length I need, or where to mount it. Any help is appreciated. Thanks guys!

 

This is the front of the LCA where I noticed that a bolt is making contact and is wearing both the bolt and a small notch on the LCA.


This picture is the backside of the LCA. I think this is where I need to do grinding to restore turning radius. Can someone highlight what needs to be ground down?

 

You MUST grind the arc of the lower control arm or you'll destroy or loosen two of the bolts that hold the spindle shaft to the spindle! Do that as soon as you can.

The turning radius requires grinding on the side which I did (sloppily, lol). I have a topic on it, let me find it...

Edit: Look here in these topics.

Grinding pics on page 2 for the turning radius.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ead.php?t=5968

And this one has pictures of cutting off (or grinding off) the arc of the arm near the spindle.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ead.php?t=6194

 

So is what I need to grind on the front part of the LCA? From what I read it sounded like all your grinding took part on the back of the arm. Should I take the truck back to the shop that installed the spindles, and justify it with the lifetime warranty I was told it was covered by? I don't think I have the right tools to grind it that much.

 

I used a 4" hand grinder.

But the shop should have known or found out what they needed to do.

 

I understand that. My dad is a little angry right now that they didn't. He said we don't have anything that would come close to being able to do that. I'll run over there tomorrow. Today was the first time I'd noticed it hitting those bolts. Luckily I haven't been driving too much. Also, when I add the lift springs up front, will that cause any other fitment issues?

 

Lift springs up front??? Don't you have torsion bars?

You can't but crank up the front so much. The ball joint and a-arm front suspension from the factory has limited flex. You can crank the t-bars like I have -- but things wear out faster.

 

It's a 2wd. I am buying new upper control arms so that I can use the springs. I'm taking the truck back to the shop tomorrow to have them grind away at the LCA's.

 

Oh, it's an XLT -- sorry I didn't see that, lol. Sometimes I think everyone has an Edge mode! Sorry.

 

We can't all be so lucky.

No luck on getting it ground today. The guy at the place I went to told me that bolt being destroyed is just one of the disadvantages of a spindle lift. He said he hates that kind of lift. I asked him what other affordable options there were, and he just kinda stared at me. I called up a real truck shop and made an appointment to go in next friday. I guess I'll have to suck it up and just eat the cost.

 

The bolt being destroyed is one of the disadvantages of the LIFT -- no, it's one of the disadvantages of installing it incorrectly!!! Good grief, sorry you got the guy you did to do the install -- hopefully the next one will be better. Wish we had one of the crew from here that's done it close enough to you to help you with it.

If you have the tools or can borrow them, to separate the ball joint, the grinder can be head for about $50 probably and you can do it yourself. Could be cheaper than paying for the job, if that interests you.

I really couldn't afford this "hobby" if I didn't have so much help, and could do as much as I do by myself. Labor costs (and quality issues) can become a big expense doing mods like this, as you've discovered.

Truly, though -- I didn't grind mine when I installed them and had to go back, take it apart and do it again. So really I had the same problem.

 

I bought a cheapo off brand dremel (*ahem* rotary tool) for less than $30 and it does all my grinding needs just fine. So far it has cut slots in the interior for my overhead console, cut a hole in a chrome bumper for a tow hook, and saved tons of time in minor sanding jobs. Mine came with a cool attachment so you can use it just like a pencil.. i love it!

You can do it yourself, we'll walk ya through it.. this group has tons more ranger experience than any offroad shop will. Half the offroad world frowns on rangers anyway..

 

^^ damn offroad world

 

Everyone around here is worried about getting sued if the LCA breaks for some reason. I have two shots left: 4x4 Customs (was closed today), and Wild ******* Customs. The two places I was at today weren't really off-road shops, and I can kind of understand not wanting to touch structural pieces. If no one else will do it I'll whip out the Dremel and have at it, but no one thinks that will be good enough to take care of it. We'll see.

 

I'm not a dune jumper but I thwunk my truck pretty hard and so far no sign of breakage. Doesn't mean they won't, I know. But so far the appear to be fine even with 35's and wider backspaced wheels. I do believe I'm ragging ball joints pretty fast though. But it's only for a season until I do the 4x4 and SAS conversion.