Lowering an EDGE. Dealing with Torsion Bars...
#1
Is there a way to lower an EDGE? The front suspension being torsion bar, you can't exactly go out and buy a DJM arm and spring kit for it... so what do you do? Or can you use parts from those kits? If not is there a kit or parts made that allow you to lower an EDGE a good 4-6 inches without having to Bagg it. Juss lookin' for a nice low static drop of about 4-6" in the front. The rear is the same with a flip and or Shackle and hanger as the rest of the models.
If there is anyone in the house who can humor me with some knowledge I would be ever so gr8ful.
Thanx,
-Dave.
If there is anyone in the house who can humor me with some knowledge I would be ever so gr8ful.
Thanx,
-Dave.
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adding fonts from zip files?HELP!!!
Well... I'm in the market for an XLT, but I want to be able to have another option if I can't find the right one. But thanx for the advice gyus. Does RCD have a website I could go to? I've not heard of them B4...
Thanx Guyz... If anybody has any other Ideas or write ups or somethin... please Let me know.
-Dave
Thanx Guyz... If anybody has any other Ideas or write ups or somethin... please Let me know.
-Dave
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#23
As you may have figured by my signature I have an Edge.
I have also severly modified it to be slammed without 'bagging it and without severly compromising the ride.
Here's what I did, and for all of you that have and Edge and don't want to bag it, or have friends, show them this.
Rear:
Remove lifting blocks and stock leaf springs. Replace with Belltech 3" drop springs.
That was probably the easiest thing I did suspension-wise.
Front:(Much harder)
Do the torsion bar flip. It's actually VERY easy, and very safe if done right. I had mine done for almost a year, travelled to the Bay Area SEVERAL times (300 miles round trip) and LA once (~800+ miles) with NO problems whatsoever.
Buy a passenger side control arm for the driver side.
The reason? The pass side is a two piece unit. The reason for buying the 2-piece is so that you can modify it to suite your needs. At the shop I work at we used longer bolts between the two pieces and placed spacers to push the pieces 1-2" away from each other. We then spot welded them to prevent anything from slipping, breaking, etc.
Also, go to Ebaymotors.com, or prosuspension.com and buy a caster/camber kit for explorers/rangers. Obviously they are interchangeable. This allows you to set the cam bolts @ neutral and use the modified control arms to set the alignment mostly. You can fine tune the alignment to your needs with the cam bolts once you get everything set up.
Last but not least (before the alignment) you will need to flip the tie rod ends.
How you may ask? Easy. Take the tie rod ends out of the spindle and drill out the existing hole (it's tapered). Next get a small, thin piece of aluminum tubing that can easily fit over the tie rod end AND fit into the hole in the spindle. You are creating a crush sleeve within the spindle for the tie rod to fit into and prevent it from being at an extreme upwards angle and causing it to wear out faster. By flipping it, you also get a nice straight tie rod which will minimize bumpsteer, etc.
Also...REMOVE FRONT BUMPSTOPS...REPLACE WITH ANY BRAND LOW PROFILE BUMPSTOPS...trust me on this, if you don't, you will have a bumpy ride. Get new shocks. I never did find the right length shocks for the front, so I kept blowing them out after a very short period of time. The rear can be Belltech, DJM, or whatever, they all work for the rear, but what they recommend will not work for the front, unless you can find the right length. Do not replace with stock shocks, they will be too tall.
Of course after all this get the truck aligned. When I first did everything up to the modified control arms, I had about 4-5 degrees neg camber. Then I installed the cam bolts and got it to about 1-2 degrees neg camber. With the control arms I could set it at any degree I wanted.
DJM uppers will not work as the balljoint is too small. DJM lowers will not work because the mounting points on the frame are different (2wd is 1-1.5" narrower then Edge/4wd)
Hope this helps. If you have any more questions, don't hesitate to ask. I've done it, it's worked, and I was happy with it. WAS, being the operative word because I've since changed it up and gotten lower. Now I'm dragging my front and my tranny crossmember, LOL. And still not 'bagged.
I have also severly modified it to be slammed without 'bagging it and without severly compromising the ride.
Here's what I did, and for all of you that have and Edge and don't want to bag it, or have friends, show them this.
Rear:
Remove lifting blocks and stock leaf springs. Replace with Belltech 3" drop springs.
That was probably the easiest thing I did suspension-wise.
Front:(Much harder)
Do the torsion bar flip. It's actually VERY easy, and very safe if done right. I had mine done for almost a year, travelled to the Bay Area SEVERAL times (300 miles round trip) and LA once (~800+ miles) with NO problems whatsoever.
Buy a passenger side control arm for the driver side.
The reason? The pass side is a two piece unit. The reason for buying the 2-piece is so that you can modify it to suite your needs. At the shop I work at we used longer bolts between the two pieces and placed spacers to push the pieces 1-2" away from each other. We then spot welded them to prevent anything from slipping, breaking, etc.
Also, go to Ebaymotors.com, or prosuspension.com and buy a caster/camber kit for explorers/rangers. Obviously they are interchangeable. This allows you to set the cam bolts @ neutral and use the modified control arms to set the alignment mostly. You can fine tune the alignment to your needs with the cam bolts once you get everything set up.
Last but not least (before the alignment) you will need to flip the tie rod ends.
How you may ask? Easy. Take the tie rod ends out of the spindle and drill out the existing hole (it's tapered). Next get a small, thin piece of aluminum tubing that can easily fit over the tie rod end AND fit into the hole in the spindle. You are creating a crush sleeve within the spindle for the tie rod to fit into and prevent it from being at an extreme upwards angle and causing it to wear out faster. By flipping it, you also get a nice straight tie rod which will minimize bumpsteer, etc.
Also...REMOVE FRONT BUMPSTOPS...REPLACE WITH ANY BRAND LOW PROFILE BUMPSTOPS...trust me on this, if you don't, you will have a bumpy ride. Get new shocks. I never did find the right length shocks for the front, so I kept blowing them out after a very short period of time. The rear can be Belltech, DJM, or whatever, they all work for the rear, but what they recommend will not work for the front, unless you can find the right length. Do not replace with stock shocks, they will be too tall.
Of course after all this get the truck aligned. When I first did everything up to the modified control arms, I had about 4-5 degrees neg camber. Then I installed the cam bolts and got it to about 1-2 degrees neg camber. With the control arms I could set it at any degree I wanted.
DJM uppers will not work as the balljoint is too small. DJM lowers will not work because the mounting points on the frame are different (2wd is 1-1.5" narrower then Edge/4wd)
Hope this helps. If you have any more questions, don't hesitate to ask. I've done it, it's worked, and I was happy with it. WAS, being the operative word because I've since changed it up and gotten lower. Now I'm dragging my front and my tranny crossmember, LOL. And still not 'bagged.
#25
Since the Edge sits at 4wd height it's obviously already taller than the 2wd trucks. So my drop would probably have equaled a 3/4 drop on a stock 2wd Ranger.
From MY stock height (Edge/4wd) I dropped it about 5/6 (once it all settled). That big of a drop necessitated some of the modifications that I did.
U can see my drop @ FTWTRUCKS
From MY stock height (Edge/4wd) I dropped it about 5/6 (once it all settled). That big of a drop necessitated some of the modifications that I did.
U can see my drop @ FTWTRUCKS