Alright well the time has finaly come for the 4.0 to go and 5.0 to go in. My friend from work has 94 Bronco with 5.0 he just pulled out in favour of a 351 cleavland he picked up for $1000 which got him engine tranny t-case and the harness!! engine was rebuilt and has 10 000 on it same with the tranny so you can tell why he picked it up. So anyways im pickin up the 302 off him for 500 and hes gving me everything to go with it, engine, tranny, t-case, and the harness. Now i want to keep the truck stick but untill then i gotta go with auto cuz i need a truck to get around with so here comes my first question, what tranny do i have to look for thats stick and that will bolt up to the 302?? Also while i have the engine out what should i do to the engine to help it run better? i was thinking somewhere along the lines of piston rings, crank bearings, crank seals, timing cover gasket, exhaust and intake, what else cna be done while its out. Ill get pictures tomorrow of the motor and stuff.

Heres my list of needs for the swap that i can think of right now and will add to it later as i go further with the project. These are seperate from the add ons (bearings rings seals and such)

Motor Mounts.
Tranny Mounts.
Tranny Cooler, Lines.
Bronco/Explorer Fuel Pump.
Explorer Radiator.
Custom Fab'ed Floor Shift. (dont wanna swap out steering column cuz its gonna be stick)
Dual Electric Fan.
Front and Rear Driveshafts.


Here is the list as for what im gettin from my friend.

Engine -240,000 km
Tranny -^^
Transfer Case
Wiring harness
Computers


Extra

Stick Tranny
Clutch and parts, master cylinder, lines.
Pistons.
Connecting Rods.
Connecting Rod Bearings.
Piston Rings.
Crank Bearings.
Crank Seals.
Timing Cover Gasket.
Intake Gaskets.
Exhaust Manifolds/Gaskets.

 

thats alotta miles on that 5.0

 

hence why i wanna do a small re-build while its out, buddy drove the truck to and from work for god knows how long, its about a 20 km one way plus all the wheelin he did.

 

:

sorry had too!

 

dude its past my work time when i posted this lol you also know what my truck looks like just not under the hood....i dont think. ill take em tmw.

 

get tons of pictures, when you do the wiring you need to get tons of pictures of where things went and how you did it. Really I want to do this to my truck and my dad is getting some money from his back injury and buying a newer truck. I know we are going to get my brothers jeep on the road. so basicly that means that I have to get another vehicale. I might have one in store, a 94 2.3L 2wd (good gas milage) which I guess the freeze plugs fell out and it over heated a bit once, then got taken off the road. But I'd love to do this so please get as many specific things as you can

 

si havent gotten the pictures up yet guys but im in brantford for the weekend visiting my university friends and no im not home yet either lol i will be able to get them up tomorrow for sure cuz ill be leaving sometime later tonight...hopefully.

 

ok no more waiting, sorry for mad long delay guys but here they are finaly.
im pretty much gonna do a total strip down to the bare block and build it right up. I got it stripped to the block on saturday but couldnt get any pictures of that cuz my sister had possession of the thing.

so heres my motor, i have the intake here at home. it was the first thing i cleaned and painted.







heres the upper intake before.

ill get an after shot when i get hold of the camera. all i gotta say is its nice lol.


the transfer case.


my buddies 351 he bought.






my motor again.


and now the throttle body. i completely dissasembled it cleaned it THOROUGHLY and re lubed the bearings, butterfly slide, and the bushings the throttle springs slide on. block sanded the surface that mates to the manifold. ground the screws down on the butterflys and sanded out any knicks smooth. took all the carbon and crap off the butterflies.








you can see where the surface was uneven on the TB.


clean butterflies!!






here is where i started cleaning the upper intake, also block sanded its mating surfaces nice and flat! I think i also went through two cans of tune up cleaner to clean the inside of the manifold, it was sooo nasty in there.



And now onto the engine.



the journals on the crank actually looked quite good for it.



and thats it for now. now for those who plan on doing an engine rebuild invest in some zip lock bags...heres why. theres hundreds of bolts and nuts and odds and ends on the engine so this is a good way not to get things mixed up when it comes back to re-assembly. once you got the bolts and nuts off bag em and tag em. that way you know where they came from and then you dont get em mixed up and cross thread them trying to put it in the wrong hole. <-----no comment to that. i bagged just about anything that i could, even the fuel rail bolts which four eight mil's And also a VERY IMPORTANT (i did that to help emphasize how serious i am) thing to do/remember is when you take out injectors, lifters, pushrods, pistons, caps both crank and connecting rod, LAY them out n the ORDER YOU TOOK THEM OUT. last thing you want to do is start mixing parts up and then phucking up your engine.

MORE PICS TO COME SOON OF THE WIRING HARNESS INTAKE AND FUEL RAIL.

 

Wow. Looks good so far. Very good pictures. Keep us posted.

 

sweet man!

 

progress looks awsome so far,i think there might be some work in your future,lol

 

if you go the t-5 route, since that trans is more for a car, you will have an extremely hard time finding one that is 4x4. the only 4x4 t-5 you will find is out of an s-10 with a 4.3 and it will bolt up. the shifter will be in a much batter spot than a mustang t-5 which is wayyy at the back of the trans. If you are going to wheel this truck and not keep it a pavement princess than stick with the M5OD or a ZF-5speed. the ZF is a tough trans with a creeper gear and a good overdrive so you can still run on the e-way.

 

Got A LOT of work done this weekend on the engine parts, did some glassbeading/painting, porting, re-orginizing and so on. Im still workin on some stuff right now im just having some food cuz my belly is makin some noises. LOTS of pictures to come in a bit, stay tuned!!!

 

Lookin good so far Bro. Can't wait to see the progress pics. When your all done we'll have to meet up and have a little 5.0 Gen II Race

 

cant wait for more pics!

 

UPDATE!!!!!! pics galore!!

First ill start off with the wiring harness. I basically took off all the black conduit and any electrical tape that was on it cuz 1. I hate that conduit crap cuz all it does is hold mud/water/dirt and any other nasty stuff and 2. i think it looks fugly unless its nicely done. So once i got that taken care of i cleaned the wires and re-taped the harness's with electrical tape to make it look all perdy again.


the positive wire.


close up of the tape job.




vacuum harness.


fuel injection harness.


the main harness.

next is the fuel rail. As you can see its still in its nice chromeness state :D and required no attention cept to wipe the dust/mud off it.


the fuel rail.



Next are the painted parts. So far i have both upper and lower intake manifolds painted with the viper graphite grey. Same color i used on my truck except it will look better under the hood cuz it wont get scratched up from wheelin lol. Then i paited the timing chain cover, water pump pulley and the thermostat housing. Now I also did some minor modifications. Cuz the parts were cast formed there were markings and edges left from the process, so I took my dremel to it and smoothed everything right out. The places that needed attention was the cooling ports in the timing chain cover, thermostat housing. They now look a million times better and it will flow better now that there arent any obstructions and flow a bit more cuz i opened up the holes slightly. Next thing to attack was he lower intake manifold, since the runners arent all twisty and crazy its very easy to port. So i went ahead and started porting the lower intake manifold, i started yesterday and managed to get half of it done. Also a little trick i learned from the mustang guys at my shop is to take the gaskets and lay them out on the surfaces theyre being placed on and where theres excess metal or where the gasket doesnt cover internaly you just take away with the dremel and smooth it all out. Phew enough talk heres some more pics.


the four units.


timing chain cover.


the upper intake manifold. For those wondering how i got the finish on the "FORD 5.0 EFI" I took something flat, in my case i used a file and wrapped it in 220 grit sand paper and sanded it smooth till it was all even that way i wouldnt have to worry bout scratching the paint. So i sanded it to a even smooth surface and painted it the manifold. Once dry i took the file bu went with 320 grit and once the paint was dry just went with a few strokes to knock the paint off the raised surface and voila!!


the timing chain cover.


the coolant port.






the cover before it was painted. All the parts that are painted were glassbeaded aka sandblasting. You only use the glass beading when cleaning aluminum cuz if you sandblast it you can ruin the aluminum. The glassbeading was done for free cuz i used to do co-op in high school at his shop, i did that for about 6 months and the place is called bondi engines. Its a high performance dirtbike/sled shop. He'll do other work too but thats what he specializes in.




smoothed the edge out cuz there was a ragged edge left from the casting.









Next are the pushrods. Now i kept those cuz they were in fairly good condition so i just took them to the wire wheel cleaned them up threw them in the varsol tank and then a hot water bath with light soap to get the varsol off and then a quick dry to prevent rusting. Now when i took them out i put them in the order as they came out as you will be able to see.





And next is the lower inatke manifold. You can see how much of the porting i got done. for now im only getting done as much as the dremel can reach without the cable attachment. I went through two in one day!!!! luckily its warranty so i thought i would save this one till i need it.






and the painted product.


And that is it for now. Today i dropped my block at the machine shop to get acid dipped, old freeze plugs removed and new ones put in, get new cam bearings installed, .30 over bored, and get the crankshaft polished and if need be turned. All that is gettin done for $380 plus taxes. That should take about a week cuz im in no rush really, and once it comes back im gonna wash it down with warm water and soap to get any dirt/oil off it then blow dry it with compressed air, then paint the block black and start building it from there on.

 

pics ain't working dude.

 

sorry its fixed

 

no need to say sorry. it's all good.

DAMN....looks great! What is the brand and color of that paint. I friggin love it!!

 

haha its made by duplicolor and the color is called "viper graphite" i got it from canadian tire and whats ****ty is that it comes in those small cans that are ten bucks each but luckily i have a friend who works there lol but i love the color regardless.

 

oh i see.....this friend hooked you up now didn't he? paid for two cans, got 4,,,lol. haha...i've got buddies like that too...one works at the local ford dealership.

 

pimp, i want a 5.0.. Ive always wanted a 5.0 :( How is gas mileage with the 5.0?

 

Haha.. he's got the engine completely ripped apart... how would he know mileage?

Haha.. nah. But seriously. I think if you build it for mileage (aka give it a good cleaning and use good parts that aren't truly made for big HP/Torque) you could probably pull 20 Hwy. I pretty sure V8 Explorers can do that... so no reason why it can't in a Ranger.

But, the build-up is looking sweet BlackBetty... make sure to keep us posted.

 

Im building it for mileage and power, the motor will obviously have a lot of power to begin with compared the 4.0 but it will run 100x better after all the cleaning is done, when i took the engine apart there was sooo much carbon deposits and crap everywhere and the motor still had some grunt then too. Im keeping everything pretty much stock except for the cam and intakes, im gonna go with slightly mild cam but nothing crazy and just porting the intakes, opening the exhaust/intake port on the heads and same on the headers. The compression is gonna stay the same i think its 9:1 ratio and im going from stamped rockers to roller rockers, the motor already came with roller lifters so i might just re-use those cuz they dont look too bad but im also considering replacing them cuz there only 130 for the set from ford racing. the heads are gonna stay the same, cept just get cleaned up and re-seat the valves. the timing chain has already been replaced with a roller one from edelbrock. the distributor cap was replaced and as well with wires, they were replaced with the ford performance ones.