Plug change
#1
Plug change
Just ordered mine from Rockauto, $73 bucks. Hopefully this will fix my misfire on startup issue since it wasn't the ignition coil.
Any tips? I think I'm going to try and just impact them out like Zach did, I have the Lisle tool in case they break though.
Did you guys remove the intake? Looks like there will be more room that way, I already know about pulling the computer.
Oh one thing does the dielectric grease go in the coil plug boot or on the boot itself?
Any tips? I think I'm going to try and just impact them out like Zach did, I have the Lisle tool in case they break though.
Did you guys remove the intake? Looks like there will be more room that way, I already know about pulling the computer.
Oh one thing does the dielectric grease go in the coil plug boot or on the boot itself?
#2
#3
I'm borrowing his tool and doing it to my dads truck after he does his, not looking forward to it either lol. Zach did you do it when the truck was cold or hot? I remember you doing it with the impact and not breaking any.
I saw a lot of people saying to use electric impacts and stuff, but I'm jut gonna use my normal 1/2" drive pneumatic craftsman on normal PSI and hope for the best
I saw a lot of people saying to use electric impacts and stuff, but I'm jut gonna use my normal 1/2" drive pneumatic craftsman on normal PSI and hope for the best
#5
I just removed the intake tube, its like one bolt if I remember and other than that just move to computer stuff out of the way. Make sure you have the correct spark plug socket before you start, cause someone borrowed mine and never returned it lol. I did mine warm, with a 3/8 air impact the only problem with the 1/2 is trying to fit it under the deck to get to the back ones.
#6
Yeah I have a 3/8 air impact in the garage. Hopefully it'll be done by the end of the week.
Doing a fuel pressure test to see if I have a bad injector as well, been doing some reading and that seems to be a common problem with a lot of 05s and some 06s. That would explain why it smells like gas bad when it doesn't start.
Doing a fuel pressure test to see if I have a bad injector as well, been doing some reading and that seems to be a common problem with a lot of 05s and some 06s. That would explain why it smells like gas bad when it doesn't start.
#7
#11
Is yours the 3 valve 5.4? The 5.4 plugs in the 04-06 F-150s have a tendency to break. A lot of guys have had luck spinning them out fast with a impact wrench before they get a chance to break.
#13
#15
#16
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Yeah, it's a 2005.
I don't think it's speed of the impact wrench that is what's really helping out - I think that there is less of a chance of the spark plug breaking because there's less side to side movement on the spark plug due to not ratcheting with the typical ratchet wrench.
If you want to experiment, you can break the spark plug threads free with a ratchet, then take out the spark plug with a power drill and socket using an attachment. Using that process, you'd have a similar process avoiding the impact gun.
I don't think it's speed of the impact wrench that is what's really helping out - I think that there is less of a chance of the spark plug breaking because there's less side to side movement on the spark plug due to not ratcheting with the typical ratchet wrench.
If you want to experiment, you can break the spark plug threads free with a ratchet, then take out the spark plug with a power drill and socket using an attachment. Using that process, you'd have a similar process avoiding the impact gun.
#19
the reason the plugs break is not due to side to side movement its is actually due to the build up of carbon on the spark plug causing them to get stuck. i would assume those who do it early and often it is because there is less time for the carbon to build up. here is fords removal process
"Remove the coil-on-plug assemblies and thoroughly blow out the spark plug wells and surrounding valve cover area with compressed air.
Back out the spark plugs no more than 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Using Motorcraft® Carburetor Tune-Up Cleaner, fill the spark plug well just above where the jamb nut hex sits (1/2 - 3/4 teaspoon). A minimum period of 15 minutes of soak time is required. The cleaner will wick down to the ground electrode shield and soften the carbon deposits in this time. DO NOT WORK the spark plug back and forth at this point.
NOTE: COMPLETELY REVIEW THE PRODUCT LABEL FOR THE MOTORCRAFT CARBURETOR TUNE-UP CLEANER PRODUCT - USE AT ROOM TEMPERATURE AND SHAKE WELL.
CAUTION: EXCESSIVE MOTORCRAFT® CARBURETOR TUNE-UP CLEANER, OR REPEATING THE PROCESS SEVERAL TIMES WITH TOO MUCH CLEANER FLUID, COULD INTRODUCE ENOUGH LIQUID VOLUME TO HYDRO-LOCK THE ENGINE.
CAUTION: DO NOT USE AIR OR POWER TOOLS FOR SPARK PLUG REMOVAL. SPARK PLUGS MUST ONLY BE REMOVED WITH HAND TOOLS.
Tighten, and then loosen the spark plug, working the plug back and forth. Some screeching and high effort may be noticed. The expected removal torque is about 33 lb-ft (45 N-m). Repeat the back and forth turning as needed until turning effort is reduced, and remove the spark plugs.
NOTE: NEW PLUGS SHOULD BE INSTALLED USING A FILM COATING OF MOTORCRAFT HIGH TEMPERATURE NICKEL ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT ON THE GROUND ELECTRODE SHIELD. DO NOT COAT THE ELECTRODE STRAP. (Figure 1)
"Remove the coil-on-plug assemblies and thoroughly blow out the spark plug wells and surrounding valve cover area with compressed air.
Back out the spark plugs no more than 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Using Motorcraft® Carburetor Tune-Up Cleaner, fill the spark plug well just above where the jamb nut hex sits (1/2 - 3/4 teaspoon). A minimum period of 15 minutes of soak time is required. The cleaner will wick down to the ground electrode shield and soften the carbon deposits in this time. DO NOT WORK the spark plug back and forth at this point.
NOTE: COMPLETELY REVIEW THE PRODUCT LABEL FOR THE MOTORCRAFT CARBURETOR TUNE-UP CLEANER PRODUCT - USE AT ROOM TEMPERATURE AND SHAKE WELL.
CAUTION: EXCESSIVE MOTORCRAFT® CARBURETOR TUNE-UP CLEANER, OR REPEATING THE PROCESS SEVERAL TIMES WITH TOO MUCH CLEANER FLUID, COULD INTRODUCE ENOUGH LIQUID VOLUME TO HYDRO-LOCK THE ENGINE.
CAUTION: DO NOT USE AIR OR POWER TOOLS FOR SPARK PLUG REMOVAL. SPARK PLUGS MUST ONLY BE REMOVED WITH HAND TOOLS.
Tighten, and then loosen the spark plug, working the plug back and forth. Some screeching and high effort may be noticed. The expected removal torque is about 33 lb-ft (45 N-m). Repeat the back and forth turning as needed until turning effort is reduced, and remove the spark plugs.
NOTE: NEW PLUGS SHOULD BE INSTALLED USING A FILM COATING OF MOTORCRAFT HIGH TEMPERATURE NICKEL ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT ON THE GROUND ELECTRODE SHIELD. DO NOT COAT THE ELECTRODE STRAP. (Figure 1)
#23
First 3 came out great. Then the one in the back is just spinning in the hole, it won't come out with the socket so i cant tell if its broke or WTF is wrong with it.
Went over to the first one on the driver side and it broke and left the porcelain inside, hooked up the lisle tool and of course i don't have a big enough socket to be able to use the lisle tool.
Moved to the next one and its just spinning in the hole too, I have no idea why its doing that. So now I'm just fed up with it, this stress isn't worth how much it will cost to get it fixed.
Went over to the first one on the driver side and it broke and left the porcelain inside, hooked up the lisle tool and of course i don't have a big enough socket to be able to use the lisle tool.
Moved to the next one and its just spinning in the hole too, I have no idea why its doing that. So now I'm just fed up with it, this stress isn't worth how much it will cost to get it fixed.
#25