dang travis. i like it.

since im using my stock air box now i want to do this. didnt you post more pics of the actual install?

 

There might be more on my photobucket page. It was pretty simple. I sealed the airbox. Cut out the stock intake hole and bolted/sealed the gate valve. I added a second intake into the box and ran it out the engine compartment up through the fender and back into the engine compartment then up into the cowl box. Sealed everything and voila!

 

so you took the fender off to do this?

also how far did you take it into the cab? is that 2" or 3" pipe?

 

Yeah, I ran fender off for about a week and used 2" pipe. I didn't have actual install pics cuz around that time my lil sis broke my digicam and didn't get a new one til after the fender was back on and everything was finished. This truck is gonna have a similar setup. I may run it into the cowl a different way though. It def worked, I closed the gate valve and sunk the entire hood in a pond and had the rear of my truck up on land and let it run at 3krpms(stupid governer)for about five minutes. Backed it out of the pond and the airbox was bone dry.

 

It doesn't go into the cab, only into the cowl box.

 

doesnt water come in there from the vents?

 

Yeah but I put a downturn on the inlet into the cowl box. Even after driving in nasty rain storms, I didn't have a drop of water in the airbox. If you're in water that deep, I'd say you have alot mroe problems than that.

If you're that worried, apply the gate valve to a different application. I did it b/c I dip down into creeks alot that rushes over the hood. I'm fine once the truck is in the creek bed. It's just the initial entry. The whole point of it was to raise the air intake two feet instead of below the headlight. If you need an inlet above the cab either a:) You're doing some crazy **** or b:) You're a poser. =]

I wanted a way to keep the stock intake but be able to close it at will. I'll take detailed pics when I do the install on this truck. It shouldn't be long now. I made sure to remove the gate valve from my last truck. I had to modify that a bit for what I wanted to use it for, besides, it was like $50 shipped on ebay. lol They retail for $60-$80 in RV supply stores. That and the 2" PVC and 2" fittings are all you need. I had to buy a 2 1/2 metal holesaw bit as well to get through the engine compartment. Some sealant(something safe for the electrical sensors as pointed out by rwenzing) and some pvc glue and you're set.

 

i was more worried about that splash of water that runs over the hoodand into the vent, which is where yours runs. but i didnt know u had it turned down as well.

 

Oh yeah, trust me I thought about that too. There are vents on each end of the cowl box for water to run down the ends of the fender. As long as the bottom of the PVC isn't on the bottom of the cowl box, you're good. The top of my pipe was almost at the top of the cowl panel. I painted it black and you'd never even know it was there. Keeping the truck looking stock and not having some ghetto looking snorkel was an added bonus. I painted all the PVC with "Bedliner for Plastic". Even the exposed piping under the hood looked stock. Other than the gate valve(which is hard to see) the airbox even looked completely stock. The guy who does my PA state inspections was bustin a nut over the setup haha. He was like "This won't pass emissions if it was a full-time snorkel or if the gave was closed when you brought it in but I don't care anyway, it's so f*ckin cool!".

 

haha that is great!, seems like a good idea to me.

ive had my air box full of water one too many times anyway.

 

I had gotten my filter soggy once and got my butt in gear building this snorkel setup later that week, lol. Fender removal wasn't hard at all either. It was a lil bit of a pita trying to line up the fender again but I got it worked out.

 

when you sealed the stock box, did you seal the lid to the box?

 

No, I used a Fram regular air filter which has a rubber seal around the edges =]

Disposable, yet functional. I'm sure other air filters have them but I've never had a problem with the Fram keeping the lid sealed.

 

Gotcha. that was going to be my next question, lol.. how the hell do you change the air filter if the box is sealed.

 

I thought I showed you my snorkel setup when you were at my parent's house the other week.

I had to bend a couple of the paper fins to get around the top of the gate valve. Works like a charm though.

I did have to take an air compressor and blow out some bugs once in awhile but they don't hurt nothin.

 

lol, yeah you did show it to me. im just an idiot and didnt remember if it was at one point sealed and reopened for some reason, or what.

speaking of gate valve, is that one anything special? or is it like one i'd find in home depot with the other pvc fittings (im thinking of the check valves or ball joint valves)

 

Why won't it pass inspection. Itz the same thing a CAI does for a Honda. And check out McMaster for a gate valve they have decent prices too.

 

Negative bro. CAI have to have an emissions sticker to be considered legal by an inspection station. They say like "SMOG Safe" or something. Some counties in PA don't require an emissions inspection. It doesn't matter for the general state mandated inspection. My county requires an emissions inspection as well. Most places overlook stuff like that but if you went to a hard-a$$ old guy service center, he wouldn't even hook it up to the machine.

The gate valve can not be found at your local hardware store. The one idiot working there had no clue what I was talking about and threated to call his daughter(whom he claimed was a PA state cop) and report me for trying to alter my emissions system. rofl. It's an RV sewage tank fitting. Like I said, I got it off ebay shipped for $25 cheaper than the local RV parts store wanted.

Search for 3" Gate Valve. There's a pic of it on the previous page with my initial install post.

 

here's a pic of the pvc ball valve im thinking of that home depot sells.. any idea why this wouldn't work? it's meant to be water tight and all.. so wouldn't it work in the same application needed for a snorkel?

 

If you can figure out how in the hell to mount that to the side or front of your air box, more power to ya. Much less be able to turn that thing, those suckers are stiff as hell to turn. lmao. Check out my pics of the gate valve on the previous page. It originally had two inch lengths of pipe on each side. I cut them off flat at the actual "gate". It was only about an inch and a half thick installed on the front of the box. That was thick enough! Wasn't much room for anything thicker than that.

To answer your question, it's impractical and there's absolutely no room for it. If you seen it in person you'd be like "Yeah right". They're huge! Trust me folks. I did all the research and tore my truck apart designing this. 3" Gate Valve! You actually have a bigger intake opening than stock, a 2" or 2 1/2" would work too. I just like to go big or go home =]

 

i saw the pics from the first thread and know what you're talkin about with the size. i just bought a couple of the ball valves for a pump im installing in my basement. i just wasn't sure if there was any reason not to use them besides their large size.

 

There's no way to mount it. Trust me. I bought one and returned it. No way feasable at least. You'd have to cut it down and doing so you'd have to shorten the handle b/c one side would be butted against the air box. Those suckers are a b1tch to turn, especially when you get to the bigger diameters. Do it cheap and you'll be afro-engineering, cussin and spittin, and regrettin it til the cows come home. Do it right and get a 3" gate valve. Come one it's $50 and if you really use it, it's either that or the risk of a hydro locked engine.

 

lol, i'll take your word for it.

 

As long as dude doesn't sell more than ten....these are at 12.50 plus shipping!!!! Same exact one I have.

http://cgi.ebay.com/3-Inch-Gate-Slic...QQcmdZViewItem

Three are already sold! Get on it ppl. I paid $40 plus $10 to get mine shipped. That's an awesome deal.

 

i saw electric gate valves somewhere a while ago.. that would be cool to configure.. although i dunno if you'd want to trust one of those. i'd be afraid of possible failure and would check it everytime, which would sort of make the whole "electric" thing pointless i guess.