IDK what im doing wrong it wont go into gear
#1
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
A few more details
Assuming manual transmission and clutch setup from "bleeding" thing
Year?
Does the transmission shift OK with engine off?
If not then shifter was put back in wrong
You need to pull out and install shifter while trans is in Neutral only, other wise no shifting
With clutch pedal down and trans in 1st can you start the engine without vehicle jumping forward?
If not then you have NO clutch release at all
If you can start it and vehicle just "wants" to move forward but can be held by brakes then you have "some" clutch release but not enough
Assuming this is after installing a new clutch?
If so did you replace the pressure plate, you need to do this if its a self adjusting model, or reset it with hydraulic jack
Does clutch pedal feel normal?
Could be Master is bad
Open reservoir, pull out the air dam(rubber cup), have someone push down on clutch pedal while you watch fluid in reservoir, NO fluid should flow in to reservoir, if it does replace master, the check valve is bad
You should be able to just open bleeder on slave and fluid will drip out a bit, and any air will also come out, this is a gravity bled, if you just see fluid and on air then air should be out of the system.
There is another issue beside air in the system
Assuming manual transmission and clutch setup from "bleeding" thing
Year?
Does the transmission shift OK with engine off?
If not then shifter was put back in wrong
You need to pull out and install shifter while trans is in Neutral only, other wise no shifting
With clutch pedal down and trans in 1st can you start the engine without vehicle jumping forward?
If not then you have NO clutch release at all
If you can start it and vehicle just "wants" to move forward but can be held by brakes then you have "some" clutch release but not enough
Assuming this is after installing a new clutch?
If so did you replace the pressure plate, you need to do this if its a self adjusting model, or reset it with hydraulic jack
Does clutch pedal feel normal?
Could be Master is bad
Open reservoir, pull out the air dam(rubber cup), have someone push down on clutch pedal while you watch fluid in reservoir, NO fluid should flow in to reservoir, if it does replace master, the check valve is bad
You should be able to just open bleeder on slave and fluid will drip out a bit, and any air will also come out, this is a gravity bled, if you just see fluid and on air then air should be out of the system.
There is another issue beside air in the system
#3
Don't make the same mistake I did and install a " non - self adjusting clutch " . Now I cannot shift when the engine is running even though my slave and master are 100% bled and hard as a rock . A member here previously stated in 2013 to "not" use a non self adjusting clutch if your truck came with a self adjusting clutch. I concur , even though he is the only person out of 100 different posts I read that even mentions problems. it's strange , as my 2000 F150 w the 4.2 and the Mazda R50D 5 speed worked fine and I was just installing a new clutch as it has 126,000 miles and I just bought a camper , so it was preventive maintenance and it was due : I put in the NON self adjusting and had 1 inch of pedal travel to engage : no biggy, BUT , it drags slightly , really noticeable in reverse, and more importantly, I can no longer shift when the truck is running . The shifter was installed correctly with the two round buttons and the slot all aligned and in neutral: the master cylinder was bench bled , (3 times ) , the slave gravity bled x 1 quart of brake fluid through clear plastic tubing held under the fluid ( no bubbles and pedal hard as a rock) . I am 99% positive using a NON self adjusting clutch has caused my problems.... I will see this week when it all gets taken apart AGAIN!
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