off road light wiring question
#1
#4
#9
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Just in case Zach can't get to the photos, this is what I did:
I've got the constant power coming from the battery. I cut a small hole in the gromet holding the wires coming into the cab from the engine, and snuck a wire through there to my relay. This gromet comes in above the clutch. In order to get to this gromet through your engine compartment, you're going to have to push the fuse box (in the engine compartment) out of the way. To do that you just have to remove the 2 or 3 bolts that hold it in place on your fender. Running that wire will be the hardest part. I attached my remote wire to one of my accessory fuses so that the lights can only be used while the truck is on. My ground wire is attached to the bolt on the back of the drivers side seat.
I've got the constant power coming from the battery. I cut a small hole in the gromet holding the wires coming into the cab from the engine, and snuck a wire through there to my relay. This gromet comes in above the clutch. In order to get to this gromet through your engine compartment, you're going to have to push the fuse box (in the engine compartment) out of the way. To do that you just have to remove the 2 or 3 bolts that hold it in place on your fender. Running that wire will be the hardest part. I attached my remote wire to one of my accessory fuses so that the lights can only be used while the truck is on. My ground wire is attached to the bolt on the back of the drivers side seat.
#10
#13
Originally Posted by Ranger1
I have 2 off-road lights on a light bar on the roof, and the wiring harness but I am unsure where to get the power from.
Whichever way you decide to do it, be sure to use large enough conductors and fuse the positive wire close to the source.
#14
Ok here is the starter relay you can get 12+ from it. its located on the drivers fender. i cant remeber which teminal is 12+ i beleave its the one with the boot on it. just take a test light and find out.
OK the gromit you want to use to go inside the cab is right below the main wiring harness you will see a hole in this pic the boot is removed
ok the first pic was from my splash here is a pic of my XLT with wirings coming out of it
another general pic so you can see where it is located
ok now for the light bar i dont understand why you want to run it in the cab this is how christian and I ran our wires for the KC light bar. christians being the black truck mine being silver
with mine on this one I put the wires through a armored shielding and ran it down in the fender and poped up in the engine bay and snake the wires along the cowl inside the engine bay to the battery
now christians
he ran the wires in the top rubber seal. more hidden i didnt take this route because i have higher wattage lights and used larger gauge wire so mine was fatter...
OK the gromit you want to use to go inside the cab is right below the main wiring harness you will see a hole in this pic the boot is removed
ok the first pic was from my splash here is a pic of my XLT with wirings coming out of it
another general pic so you can see where it is located
ok now for the light bar i dont understand why you want to run it in the cab this is how christian and I ran our wires for the KC light bar. christians being the black truck mine being silver
with mine on this one I put the wires through a armored shielding and ran it down in the fender and poped up in the engine bay and snake the wires along the cowl inside the engine bay to the battery
now christians
he ran the wires in the top rubber seal. more hidden i didnt take this route because i have higher wattage lights and used larger gauge wire so mine was fatter...
#15
Originally Posted by rwenzing
Here is another way that some people do it. On 2001+, there is a small cover on the front of the underhood Battery Junction Box. Underneath the cover, there are 2 lugs that connect the positive battery cable to power the various circuits that branch out from the BJB. It is possible to use eye termainals to connect extra wires under the nuts. It is important disconnect the battery before starting and to replace the small cover over the lugs before reconnecting the battery.
Whichever way you decide to do it, be sure to use large enough conductors and fuse the positive wire close to the source.
Whichever way you decide to do it, be sure to use large enough conductors and fuse the positive wire close to the source.
#16
I too (or is it three at this point) ran my wire in via the gromet near the clutch. However mine is just a low-current trigger for the relay. All my high-current stuff is under the hood.
For power I have a collection of accessory runs terminated on one of the two posts on the front of the under-hood power distribution box. Just remember to use inline fuses as close to the junction box as possible. Fortunately for me my lights are on my brush guard, meaning all the high-current stuff is forward of the firewall.
To trigger the relay I tapped the high-beam trigger in the pigtail going to the steering column. That trigger also has an override switch under my dash.
Edit: Dayum.. Bob's on the scene, disregard me..
For power I have a collection of accessory runs terminated on one of the two posts on the front of the under-hood power distribution box. Just remember to use inline fuses as close to the junction box as possible. Fortunately for me my lights are on my brush guard, meaning all the high-current stuff is forward of the firewall.
To trigger the relay I tapped the high-beam trigger in the pigtail going to the steering column. That trigger also has an override switch under my dash.
Edit: Dayum.. Bob's on the scene, disregard me..
#19
Originally Posted by Ranger1
Hey Zach where did you guys get those white plastic things that hold the wires and keep them neat ?
#20
FOUND EM....better price too!!!
http://www.buycableties.com/catalog/?pid=86
those have adhisive backs and you slip a standard zip tie in the hole and clamp the wire too it
http://www.buycableties.com/catalog/?pid=86
those have adhisive backs and you slip a standard zip tie in the hole and clamp the wire too it
#22
Originally Posted by rwenzing
Here is another way that some people do it. On 2001+, there is a small cover on the front of the underhood Battery Junction Box. Underneath the cover, there are 2 lugs that connect the positive battery cable to power the various circuits that branch out from the BJB. It is possible to use eye termainals to connect extra wires under the nuts. It is important disconnect the battery before starting and to replace the small cover over the lugs before reconnecting the battery.
Whichever way you decide to do it, be sure to use large enough conductors and fuse the positive wire close to the source.
Whichever way you decide to do it, be sure to use large enough conductors and fuse the positive wire close to the source.
#23
Originally Posted by Ranger1
sweet,
How did you guys wire power to the switch ? i was thinking about making it idiot proof so the lights can only be on if the truck is on.
How did you guys wire power to the switch ? i was thinking about making it idiot proof so the lights can only be on if the truck is on.
#25
Originally Posted by Redneckstone
well you have to use a RELAY...and run the lights just like this diagram. also dont wire so the truck has to be on. you will find youself might needing them if your truck is off. and my bet is there no brighter then 100w so you want have a huge problem draining the battery.
Yes they are 100 watts each x 2 and soon to be x 4