CEL, Gas Gauge Acting Funny, and I'm wondering what's going on!!!
#1
CEL, Gas Gauge Acting Funny, and I'm wondering what's going on!!!
I can get my hands on a code reader, so I'll find out the code shortly. My gas gauge will fluxuate from 1/2 to commpletely (like over the F) filled. It seems like I just have some bad gas?
I got hess, which I never get b/c of the quality. I'm going to try Mobil in a minute (I'm about 1/4 tank..guestimate). See if that works.
This damn truck is giving me a huge headache. If the transmission wasn't enough!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I got hess, which I never get b/c of the quality. I'm going to try Mobil in a minute (I'm about 1/4 tank..guestimate). See if that works.
This damn truck is giving me a huge headache. If the transmission wasn't enough!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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#7
Originally Posted by n3elz
I've had the rear in that deep and no problem. I'm more concerned that something rose up underneath and whacked something.
Old problem someone has was with dual-outlet exhaust where the pipes ran too close to the plastic lines to the cannister and purge valve.
Old problem someone has was with dual-outlet exhaust where the pipes ran too close to the plastic lines to the cannister and purge valve.
The steady water line was below the door handle.
I was at such an angle too...the gas tank side was up.
I bet something hit it. I go over quite a few rocks and sticks and trees.
#8
#9
Well, code P0460.
It's the fuel something or other (I forgot). I cleared the CEL, it hasn't came on for about 15 miles now. It takes 2 times for that one to trip, so I'm thinking it should trip soon. I read a post bob posted before on it, I'll search again and post it in here to make it easier for other people
It's the fuel something or other (I forgot). I cleared the CEL, it hasn't came on for about 15 miles now. It takes 2 times for that one to trip, so I'm thinking it should trip soon. I read a post bob posted before on it, I'll search again and post it in here to make it easier for other people
#11
Originally Posted by jrpro130
Yea, my rear end was completely under water. No bed rails could be seen (except for the very front stake holes. The water was at the window line splashing basically (before she settled).
Originally Posted by jrpro130
Well, code P0460.
Did you check the 40-pin connector near the transfer case and the 4-pin connector at the fuel pump assembly? Open them up and look for water or corrosion inside. Clean/repair as necessary and repack with dielectric grease.
Originally Posted by rwenzing
The Fuel Level Input is a single wire from the fuel pump assembly to the PCM with a branch to the cluster. I think this code would probably be triggered for a short or open that pushed the voltage out the range that would be normally seen by the PCM for a healthy FLI.
...the first place I would check would be the large 40-pin connector under the chassis directly below the driver seat. It is fairly common to get water and/or corrosion in that connector which can cause a variety of problems on circuits that go to the rear half of the truck. I have that connector packed with dielectric grease in the hope that it will keep the water out.
...the first place I would check would be the large 40-pin connector under the chassis directly below the driver seat. It is fairly common to get water and/or corrosion in that connector which can cause a variety of problems on circuits that go to the rear half of the truck. I have that connector packed with dielectric grease in the hope that it will keep the water out.
#13
Originally Posted by 01xltranger4x4
T-case? I thought he was 2wd.
It doesn't matter if it's 2WD or 4WD, though. His truck has the same connector in the same place. It is under the cab directly below the driver seat.
#15
Originally Posted by rwenzing
You got me there. I guess I must have been thinking that no one with a 2WD (except John!) would get that submerged.
It doesn't matter if it's 2WD or 4WD, though. His truck has the same connector in the same place. It is under the cab directly below the driver seat.
It doesn't matter if it's 2WD or 4WD, though. His truck has the same connector in the same place. It is under the cab directly below the driver seat.
Ranger-forums has yet another crazy ranger guy...so mark that as 2 guys who sink their rangers weekly!!!
I'm trying not to do it again, but the next time it does happen, I'm doing the herculiner mod. I don't liek the vynl floor, it's too much of a pain to clean.
And hopefully I'll either be buying a 4x4 or converting mine with a solid axle VERY soon!!!!
Thanks once again bob, I'm going to look at it right now!
#16
Got it!!!
Found the problem...there was about a pint of water in the connector. Along with mud. I cleaned it out and I"m letting it dry now.
It seems as if when the connector is unplugged, the fuel gauge reads completely full. So it is a problem with the connection that is making my gauge funny.
Here's pics to elaborate....
This was during...before it was completely off
Gas Gauge (I have little over 1/2 tank)
That was a span of maybe 10 seconds.
Found the problem...there was about a pint of water in the connector. Along with mud. I cleaned it out and I"m letting it dry now.
It seems as if when the connector is unplugged, the fuel gauge reads completely full. So it is a problem with the connection that is making my gauge funny.
Here's pics to elaborate....
This was during...before it was completely off
Gas Gauge (I have little over 1/2 tank)
That was a span of maybe 10 seconds.
#17
Good pics and good job. Don't forget to get some dielectric compound, or a good substitute is NOALOX or something from a hardware store that is for aluminum wire connections to non-aluminum. It's not expensive and it works excellently even on totally non-aluminum.
I think mine is coming apart. I remember Bob's original post about back-filling it with compound and I MEANT to do that, but never got to it.
I think mine is coming apart. I remember Bob's original post about back-filling it with compound and I MEANT to do that, but never got to it.
#18
Originally Posted by n3elz
Good pics and good job. Don't forget to get some dielectric compound, or a good substitute is NOALOX or something from a hardware store that is for aluminum wire connections to non-aluminum. It's not expensive and it works excellently even on totally non-aluminum.
I think mine is coming apart. I remember Bob's original post about back-filling it with compound and I MEANT to do that, but never got to it.
I think mine is coming apart. I remember Bob's original post about back-filling it with compound and I MEANT to do that, but never got to it.
This needds to be added to the mods of any offroaders...same thign as the vent extensions.
Man, I'm learning the HARD way on everything!!!! No vent extensions=tranny blows, no dielectric compound=cel and gas gauge weird
What next?
#19
#20
Originally Posted by jrpro130
Got it!!!
Found the problem...there was about a pint of water in the connector. Along with mud. I cleaned it out and I"m letting it dry now.
Found the problem...there was about a pint of water in the connector. Along with mud. I cleaned it out and I"m letting it dry now.
Water/salt/mud in that connector can cause problems with brake, running, turn and backup lights, fuel pump/fuel gauge, evap codes, ABS, and, on certain years, erratic speedometer behavior and auto trans shifting - in other words, it carries the wires for everything electrical that lives in the back 1/3 of the truck.
If you get salt water in there and don't catch it soon enough, the pins will corrode and literally dissolve inside the connector. This can be a big problem where road salt is used.
Using generous amounts of dielectric compound is a step in the right direction. I think those who live in the rust belt or offroad through deep water should check the "fluid level" in this connector on a regular basis.
#22
Originally Posted by rwenzing
Good job!
Water/salt/mud in that connector can cause problems with brake, running, turn and backup lights, fuel pump/fuel gauge, evap codes, ABS, and, on certain years, erratic speedometer behavior and auto trans shifting - in other words, it carries the wires for everything electrical that lives in the back 1/3 of the truck.
If you get salt water in there and don't catch it soon enough, the pins will corrode and literally dissolve inside the connector. This can be a big problem where road salt is used.
Using generous amounts of dielectric compound is a step in the right direction. I think those who live in the rust belt or offroad through deep water should check the "fluid level" in this connector on a regular basis.
Water/salt/mud in that connector can cause problems with brake, running, turn and backup lights, fuel pump/fuel gauge, evap codes, ABS, and, on certain years, erratic speedometer behavior and auto trans shifting - in other words, it carries the wires for everything electrical that lives in the back 1/3 of the truck.
If you get salt water in there and don't catch it soon enough, the pins will corrode and literally dissolve inside the connector. This can be a big problem where road salt is used.
Using generous amounts of dielectric compound is a step in the right direction. I think those who live in the rust belt or offroad through deep water should check the "fluid level" in this connector on a regular basis.
It was still rising (the gas gauge) when I plugged it in about five minutes ago. It seems like it may be false grounding or something? Should the compound help that?
#23
It's fixed now. The CEL went again, but the gas gauge works, tranny is shifting better now, truck just overall seems smoother. No ping, no noises, nothing anymore. (I was pinging before).
I put the dielectric compound on it, at first it was all weird (running) but now it is running fine.
Thanks John and Bob!!!
I put the dielectric compound on it, at first it was all weird (running) but now it is running fine.
Thanks John and Bob!!!
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