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Old 05-23-2011
sheltonfilms's Avatar
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I am: Anthony Shelton
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Knoxville, TN
Vehicle: 2000 Ford Ranger
Posts: 622
Total Props: 6
Finally added all the power options to my truck.

I just felt like bragging a little:

After about a year of collecting parts and finally getting the time to do it, I've finally added OEM power windows, locks, mirrors (wiring is there just need to get mirrors), and cruise control.

2 Power Doors from a 1999 Mazda B4000--$35 a piece
Engine Bay Harness and Dash Harness from a 2000 Ranger V6 2wd-$ 50 bucks total
Driver's side Door Harness from 2000 Ranger-$25
RAPS module (remote module) and fob ---included with Dash and Engine Bay harness
Tilt steering column with wheel from 1999 explorer-$40 bucks
clockspring and buttons where included with steering column.
Cruise Servo-$10
Servo Cable-$25


Still need new door panels (get rid of holes from window cranks) and mirrors (ones on doors where cracked in the plastic shells).

The first thing (October), I did was replace my steering column with the tilt version and added the new clockspring and cruise buttons.

Back in December my heater core was clogged so I ended up replacing the dash harness when I pulled the dash. Took about 6 hours. What really sucked is I had to cut and rewire my OHC and Autodimming mirror. Added RAPS module.

I gutted the doors I bought for the regulators and the lock actuators and found out that the 1999 wiring harness for the driver side door had a different connector setup than a 2000, so this put my project to a halt until I could find another door harness from a 2000 model.

On to last week. I finally found a wiring harness for my driver side door and I started again.

The engine bay harness replacement was a PITA. I had to remove the coolant reservoir, air box, radiator, headlights, marker lights, etc. Took a few hours. Added the cruise servo and cable. Tried to start truck................nothing. Whipped out my wiring diagram book and found out that my starter relay wasn't grounded. With my non antitheft harness (stock) the relay was already grounded, but with my new harness that was wired for antitheft the starter relay has to be grounded by the antitheft module. I just popped out my passenger side air bag, grabbed the antitheft plug and jumped two pins to ground the starter relay. Engine started fine, took for a test drive, cruise works!

The next day I started on the doors. First the passenger side, removed the panels, water seal, and removed the stock harness. Then I drilled out the rivets to the window actuator and replaced it with some 1/4" rivets.
Then I added the door lock actuators, and here is where most of my time went. I spent hours trying to get the actuators to slide into place on the door latches and they would not fit. I finally found out why. The actual switches that screw into the bottom on the door latches for the door ajar are different between powered and nonpowerdoors. Electrically they are the same but the difference is which way the connector faces. For the non powered doors the connector faced toward the door hinge and blocked the actuators from being installed. On the power doors they face toward the outside door handle out of the way. After these were replaced, the actuators fit fine. Put everything back together and added the new door handle bezel with buttons. Passenger side done.

On to the drivers side: Tore it apart and had to unhook the wiring harness from under the dash.......royal pain. The emergency brake wire is integrated into this harness and has a connector up and behind the dash. Very hard to get to. After about 30 mins and a lot of cussing I finally got it loose and replaced it and all the other guts.

Hooked the battery back up and everything worked!!!!

I flew through writing this so I'm sure I left some things out.

If anyone wants to do this same project I am more than willing to help out. Just remember to do it this way takes time, money (I ended up getting a pretty good deal on the parts), and lots and lots and lots of patience.

Most of the time involved was finding the right parts for the right price. For $220 dollars, I would say it is money and time well spent.

Quality Engineer (Electronics) for Kia Motors
University of Tennessee Electrical Engineering Graduate
2000 XLT 2.5L A/T
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Old 05-23-2011
2001fordranger's Avatar
I am: Bruchetti Bruchetti
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: USA
Vehicle: 2001 ford ranger xlt 3.0
Posts: 596
Total Props: 0
This is greet! Finally someone who was not scared to do WHAT I DID, I did the oem donor route, lots of folks say that it's too much work and looks tedious, but when it comes to work ethics, this project was right up my alley, I absolutely love telling the story of going from a 01 non powered basic xlt to a fully powered and 4x4 offroad capable ranger.

I am glad you took the chance and you will in fact love your ranger, just so you know, regardless of what KBB says', by adding these powered items, you have increased the value of your ranger by a few $ grand if you ever decide to sell it.

if you ever sell, just say to the buyer , that you will lower price, but all power options will be taken off, let's see what they say than, lol
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Old 05-23-2011
sheltonfilms's Avatar
Thread Starter

I am: Anthony Shelton
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Knoxville, TN
Vehicle: 2000 Ford Ranger
Posts: 622
Total Props: 6
Its funny because I looked up the KBB value just a few hours ago and it bumped it up to about a grand more, and with this setup no one is gonna argue with it being from factory or not.

But with all this work put into the truck, I'm just gonna drive it till the wheels fall off and then put some more wheels on and keep going.
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